Say what you like. Beer is pretty good but, be honest, toast is the best. See that there? My yellow tomatoes on cream cheese mixed with my green onions, chives and basil. Pennies worth of seeds, just months of waiting. And watering. And weedeing. All for toast. I once even made cream cheese. Bought the equipment on line maybe 25 years ago. It was great. It was a couple of kilos worth, too. Never made it again. You think a beer hobby or home brewing is a hazard to your girlish figure? Cream cheese making laughs at home brewing.
What’s up? For Everyday Drinking, Sarah Sioli wrote about an interesting problem with clinky drinky third spaces:
There’s a paradox anyone who cares about wine, gastronomic culture, and cities will recognize. When I go out to eat and drink in Barcelona, I almost always have to choose between two things I love: the kind of bar that feels like home, and the kind of wine I actually want in my glass. In this city, those two things rarely live under the same roof. It’s happening in many cities where bars are still part of daily life… And here’s where the paradox lands… The wood has become stainless steel. The kitsch portraits are gone, replaced by minimalist reproductions and photo prints. The crowd has become the modernillos—Spanish for the “cool kids.” The waiter speaks English first These places are what the anthropologist Marc Augé called non-places…
Exactly! Non-places. Sounds a lot like those IKEA-inspired taprooms. For an opposing view, Ron’s thoughts on Canada’s VIA rail service have conveyed valuable information. His trip into Quebec City even more so:
Alexei has found a pub with a decent beer selection nearby: Café au Temps Perdu. We head there. There’s a supermarket nearby. But we’ll leave that for on the way back. Au Temps Perdu is a lively neighbourhood bar. We sit on the terrace. As the sun sets behind suburban houses. Dead relaxing, is how I would describe it. The air is still and the light golden. I get a Noctem Catnip IPA, the kids have cider. And some food: beef dumplings, fried calamari and poutine. The poutine is really good: rich and deeply savoury. It really does seem to be better in Quebec. The gravy is almost like brown sauce, in a very good way It’s a lovely summer evening and customers drift in and out, the crowd becoming noticeably younger as time drifts on. I get an espresso martini for my second drink. What the hell, I’m on holiday.
What else? Well, a lot of newspaper columns end up as higher forms of listicle – which is readonable given the general readership – but this column by Pete Brown in the Times of London provided us with a very suscinct history of Italian Pilsners:
In 1996 an Italian brewer called Agostino Arioli set up a new brewery, Birrificio Italiano, just outside Milan. He was a huge fan of the hoppy German Jever Pilsener, and wanted to brew a copy. It didn’t work, so he tried the English practice of “dry-hopping”, where raw hop flowers or pellets are added to the beer after fermentation to intensify the fruity flavour. That didn’t work either. But he had accidentally created a beer that he loved — he named it Tipopils (Italian for “kind of pils”). Exhibiting it at a brewing competition in Munich, he met Matt Brynildson, an American brewer who liked Tipopils so much he went straight back to Firestone Walker in California and made his own version.
Speaking of lagers, Boak and Bailey shared a bit of a study on the place of cask ale in an English heat wave – but included some thoughts of a nice colder lager:
We think it’s that lager has less going on or, rather, that its complexity is fairly subtle. In hot weather, what you want is water but better, and a good lager can be like that. It won’t make you chew on anything, or overwhelm your nasal apparatus before you’ve even taken a gulp. It has enough bitterness to provide an invigorating bite but not so much that it takes even the slightest effort. This is all perilously close to the language of beers that are ‘drinkable’ and ‘refreshing’ but in hot weather those qualities do become rather more appealing.
I’ve been told my own complexity is pretty subtle. (“Too damn subtle!” read the marginal notes on much of my marked school work.) Speaking of B+B, on their Patreon footnotes last weekend I commented on their thought that once a beer becomes too different it arguably ceases to be beer. My comment was that “scotch taping non-beery things onto the category of “beer” dilutes statistical certainty but it also conveys a lack of, what… authorship.” IE: if you make sometihng new, name it something new. The recent obituary of wine writer Matthew Jukes pointed out an example of this:
Known in the trade as “Jukesy”, he was adored by Australians because he did so much to champion their wines in his books, journalism and broadcasting… He also ventured successfully into business, responding to changing trends in alcohol consumption by creating a range of zero-alcohol drinks that could “replace wine for a wine-savvy palate”. His recipes were inspired by Haymaker’s Punch, a cordial made by farmers in the 17th century using leftover fruit and vegetables steeped in vinegar. Soon his “Jukes Cordialities”, having started in a kitchen under a Battersea railway arch, were winning orders from Michelin-starred restaurants around the world.
I mention this as it affirms a usefulness in taxonomy that the booze world largely ignores – giving each thing its own name. I might be more interested (errr… even slightly interested) in booze replacement fluids (BRFs) if they were called “cordialities” or, you know, anything other than the thing that they are not. For example and by way of illustration, consider this statement in a recent post at BMI:
Notably, non-alc beer accelerated from week to week, up 15.7% for wk thru Aug 2 vs +14.7% in prior wk thru Jul 26, making it one of the only alc bev segments to do so…
One day soon footware and car parts will also be included as “alc bev segments” to further plump the stats.
Almost relatedly, in Pellicle David J wrote about Stirchley Wines & Spirits of Birmingham, which in 1989 became one of those fabulous pre-“craft” beer retailers, a now largely unsung foundation of the beer beer movement:
…Krishan made sure not to overlook British breweries—although he confesses he generally found the era’s offerings quite samey—and stocked outliers like Worthington White Shield and Samuel Smith before supermarkets had extensive beer ranges. He dealt directly with breweries like Shrewsbury’s Salopian, in some cases before they were established, and was especially excited when new ones opened in Birmingham. The key to Stirchley Wines’ enduring success, though, was always offering a range of beers that appealed to all types of drinkers, whether they were interested in the modern, the traditional, or rare imports. Today, the locally brewed Batham’s Best Bitter is the shop’s single bestseller, but Birmingham’s Attic Brew Co. is the most popular brewery.
Update: I forgot to mention how much I enjoy the beer specialist shops, something that the pervasive nature of craft has perhaps stomped upon. Twenty years ago, I had to impose a rule upon myself that I would not could not physically touch any bottle for the first ten minutes of a visit to Finger Lake Beverages. One had to control oneself.
And did you hear about the mid-1900s Belgian brewer who may have been doing better than the taxman was told? The Guardian reports:
The hoard, which includes gold coins, nuggets and numbered bullion bars, was stashed in a bag in a bricked-in cellar wall beneath the grand villa originally built for the brewery’s owner, Theophilus Van Assche, in the late 19th century. Brewing on the site began in 1899 and ceased in 1970, and the listed property – the wrought-iron gates of which still bear the initials “VA” – is being completely renovated by the social welfare organisation CAW Oost-Vlaanderen to create new offices and housing.
Apparently, some of the ingots are marked in a way that indictes that it is no older than the 1960s so it is not like it’s Nazi gold. Less dramatic was another find:
A woman has claimed a free pint of beer after finding a coin and a mysterious message hidden in the wall of her house. The card, discovered by Ellie Mead in Bicester, Oxfordshire, revealed the cache was left there in 1971 by electrician David Judd, who promised “one pint best beer if penny returned”. A Facebook appeal traced his daughter, Helen Russell, who revealed he was now aged 92, living in Devon and happy to honour the offer. She said: “I do know that there are others all over the place but he won’t tell me exactly where.”
Speaking of odd things found at breweries, Will Hawkes on the twentieth annivesary of the end of Young’s brewery in the latest edition of London Beer City:
Well, how many breweries are also menageries? Young’s had not only 20-odd Dray Horses, but goats (cleverer than horses, SJY reasoned, they’d notice a fire in the stables before the drays), donkeys (a pair, called Bonnie and Clyde, found emaciated and nurtured back to life), a Dorset Horn Ram (‘a living mascot’), 17 geese, hens and peacocks.
And here’s a thumbnail illustrating an all too common sort of interaction in the beer discourse from over at LinkedIn. I am playing with LinkedIn by posting pictures of my garden and my birdwatching instead of making up shit about my career path. Screw with the construct I say. Anyway, have a look. In response to a pretty light newbie 101 sort of infographic on Pilsners a certain Mr. M.D. Ferguson (apparently of the hops trade) takes the time to write “completely inaccurate on the hop part“… as if one looks to infographics for accuracy. Then someone called Dr. G. Spedding Phd (apparently of a booze lab) took the opportunity to redirect eyes… to an article HE got published in a trade mag a few months back about flavour wheels and not about distinctions among Pilsners. All of which conveys a disinforming disrespectful cocaphanic mess. None of which passed my mind’s eye without hearing the voices of Beavis and Butthead.
Speaking of butting heads, here’s an interesting angle on “Gulf War III, Trump Trips Trap” and the news that the US Navy has been struggling to provide supplies to the ships, especially the USS Lincoln – as reported in the NYT:
By tradition and Navy regulation, the commanding officer of a warship can request a “beer day” for their crews when they have been at sea for 45 straight days or longer. Given the Lincoln’s time at sea, the crew would have been eligible for five beer days already. A spokesman for the U.S. Fifth Fleet, which covers naval operations in region and would authorize beer days, did not immediately respond to a request for comment on Friday about whether any of the ships participating in the Iran war had requested them.
Apparently Wee Donnie didn’t see fit to provide “toilets that work days” so I would expect that beer was not high on the priority list. In the 1980s, my home of Halifax NS had periodic visits from the NATO fleet and you could go on board. I remember on a very large US ship a few crew laughing about how the other navies allowed booze on board. I remember on a very small Canadian ship a few crew laughing about how, during the war games out at see a few days before they sank the very large US ship.
Booze and war have also had an effect in Russia with news laws coming in to deal with smuggling:
Under the new regulations, bringing just two bottles of premium vintage wine or high-end champagne without declaring them can trigger criminal penalties. Illegal transport of high-value wine in personal luggage has remained common practice, with Federal Customs Service data showing attempted illegal alcohol imports reaching 413.5 million rubles ($4.5 million) last year, up from 266.7 million rubles ($2.9 million) the year prior… Former government economist Oleg Vyugin noted that due to complex transport routes and rising tariffs, “European wines in restaurants cost like an airplane wing,” adding that “if you want to drink good wine, you have to spend everything you earned over the last two months, or be an oligarch.”
Pity the poor oligarchs. One last thing. How do you feel about subliminal A.I. text? Has anyone checked for that in beer writing? What am I talking about?!?! Here is a portion of a discussion of Elliott v. New York Bariatric Group out of New York’s Judicial District of Ansonia/Milford:
The concealed text was a command addressed to machines, set under the caption and repeated at the end of the document… The plaintiff was telling whatever model touched the document to make its output agree with him and to treat the clerk’s prior ruling against him as an error that needed fixing in his favor. A second filing that same day, Docket Entry #178.00, carried an abbreviated version of the same hidden instruction. In the cybersecurity world this is called a prompt injection attack.
This was spotted care of Brendan M. Palfreyman, attorney in Syracuse NY who has a noted focus on brewing law IP but has been sharing how A.I. is being applied in (and is offensive) to the courts. It’s something like self-promoting search engine fodder. Could that tool defeat any integrity in beer rating sites, for example? Couldn’t be worse than LinkedIn.
As I figure out how to add subliminal messaging to this weekly update (buy Al toast!), please check out Boak and Bailey posting on Saturday and adding to their fabulously entertaining footnotes week after week at Patreon. And do look out for more of Stan’s “One Link, One Paragraph” format. Then hunt out something in someone’s archives! Leave oblique comments on someone’s post from 2009!! Listen to a few of Lew’s podcasts and get your emailed issue of Episodes of my Pub Life by David Jesudason on certain Fridays. And Phil Mellows is at the BritishBeerBreaks. Once a month, Will Hawkes issues his London Beer City newsletter. Do sign up for Katie’s wonderful self-governing totes autonomous website featuring The Gulp, too. Ben’s Beer and Badword remains on pause but there is reading at The Glass which is going back to being a blog. Any more? We have Ontario’s own A Quick Beer and All About Beer is still offering a range of podcasts – and there’s also Mike Seay’s The Perfect Pour. Plus follow the venerable Full Pint podcast! And there’s the Craft Beer Channel on Youtube as well as the archives of the Beer Ladies Podcast.
