Is this fascinating? I think about that at certain quiet moments. I mean I do my best but I can’t answer that question. Only you can. That is the one thing writers don’t talk that much about. The readers. 1.7% of me fully believes that any attention I receive in response to these scratchings is by sociologists asking “why?!?!?” But that is fine. They… like you… are readers. You will weigh the evidence and make your judgement. We just have to remember as our friend Laura H. learned this very week: “it was revelatory to them that beer people exist.” As least I acknowledge you exist. I do. That’s gotta be worth sumthin’.
Where to start? Big news from the seven seas to start with. I love this story about a brewery on a boat, continuing the fine tradition reaching back to the 1660s and again in the 1850s. Except this time it was not Arctic explorers wiliing away the winters when the seas were frozen, as Jessica Mason reports:
…the cruise’s bar manager Giulio Giannini said: “Basically, we desalinate seawater through osmosis. The resulting water is pure H2O, nothing more. From there, the entire brewing process begins.” According to Giannini, all production takes place entirely on the vessel, this encompasses milling and brewing right through to fermentation and maturation. A feat that puts the task into the realms of challenging, but not impossible. Speaking to the drinks business, beer fan Mark Cole admitted that, for him, the move to house a microbrewery onboard “might make me actually consider a cruise,” showing that the positives for the sector are that it will help broaden the audience for cruises in general, attracting beer drinkers.
Would that swing the decision to take a cruise for you? All a bit too busy for me. Me, I am more attracted by these excellent observations of a moment of quiet from ATJ:
I am not the first person in the bar, there is another drinker to the right of me, sitting on a banquette against the wall, next to the fire burning in the grate, white wispy hair hoping to reach his shoulders, perhaps a memory of his youth as a rocker. His glass is half full, beer, amber and what he has drunk so far has left a playful trace of lacing on the glass. He is not reading, neither looking at his phone; he is just looking ahead, and doesn’t seem to have that eagerness on his face, a pushing forward of the upper part of his body, that might indicated that he wants to talk. He seems happy with the stillness of the bar, and like him I am also contented.
I like the stillness of a bar. It’s like taking a nap but you aren’t even at home. Speaking of things that aren’t like other things, I was lobbied to review what I had already noticed, Ben Gibbs‘ piece (at his newsletter with the excellent URL “soberboozersclub”) on alcohol free beer being offered by Bathams:
Alcohol free beer often arrives with messaging attached to it. Moderation and improvement. It’s framed as a better choice, or at least a more considered one. That language doesn’t land here. These pubs aren’t built around self-improvement, they’re built on ritual. The same pint, the same place, the same faces, the same small actions repeated over time until you don’t have to think about it anymore. For anything new to settle into that environment it has to feel ordinary. That is what Bathams alcohol free does. It sits on the bar without drawing attention to itself. It arrives in the same shape and occupies the same space in your hand. Nothing else in the room shifts to accommodate it.
That fits. Just as being “still” means quiet is can also suggest continuity. Next, Knut. Knut? Knut! Knut was once a travel correspondent for this here publication, back when we had a few more voices than just me. Recently, Knut has picked up his pen again… or his keyboard I suppose… and has been writing on his newsletter, this time about the difference between what was Norwegian March Beer, then Easter Beer, then Spring Beer and then Export Beer:
The name was later changed to Påskebrygg (“Easter Brew”), and the sales period ran from March 1 to March 31. The name Påskebrygg met strong opposition from Christian groups, particularly the organization Kristenfolkets Edruelighetsråd (the Christian Temperance Council). The brewing industry decided to change the name, stating that it wished to respect the feelings of those who supposedly took offense at it. The motives in the ads and the bottle labels focused on a new activity – domestic ski tourism. We enter a new period with more leasure and, at least for some people, more disposable income. Following a naming competition, the beer was released in 1939 under the name Vårøl (“Spring Beer”). Påskebrygg and Vårøl were sold from 1934 to 1940. In the postwar years, Eksportøl (“Export Beer”) became their successor.
Make sense? Good. Me, I miss my tenuous access to Easter Beer. What else is going on? I need to pick up tips from Retired Martin who has been on the road again, this time wandering around Cologne, Germany – or, rather, standing around:
I knew I had to visit Gaststätte Lommerzheim (“Lommi’s“) at some point, why not now ? “It’s like the Hare and Hounds” I tell Matt. Frankly, you queue for opening, either for lunch (11) or teatime (4.30), or you miss out. James and Matthew weren’t convinced by the appeal of standing outside a suspect looking building on an unpromising street for a quarter of an hour when nicer looking open options called out across the Rhine. But as we chatted to two lads who’d travelled from Chicago (again !) with Lommies top of their list they began to succumb. And then at 16:30 the back door (the one marked “Keller”) opened, leaving those of us staring at the front door to make a dash for a table.
Staying in Germany but waiting much longer in the line up, Andreas Krennmair has been able to clarify a question that has bothered him for sometime about Munich’s Oktoberfest:
…the current restrictions on beer at Oktoberfest, namely that it can only be from one of the “traditional” breweries from Munich whose beer conforms to the Oktoberfestbier PGI regulations, which requires them to have a well going several hundred metres deep down, are not rooted in the festival’s own history. It is essentially a form of regulatory capture to make it exclusive to Munich’s big 6 beer brands that has been successfully defended in court before.
Andreas located documents showing that in 1895 there were 19 breweries with stalls at the festival. It’s a scam! Fight the power!! Leaving Germany with a few last stops, Franz Hofer wrote this week about the breweries in the towns and villages along the trainline crossing the border between Munich and Salzburg – like Privatbrauerei Schnitzlbaumer in Traunstein:
Renovated recently, Schnitzlbaumer boasts vaulted ceilings and large feature windows with views of the valley. The bar is backlit in that early 2000s atmospheric kind of way, and copper kettles glimmer in the subdued light. It’s a nice, airy space perfect for whiling away the early evening with a few beers. As for those beers… the best of the lot is their Weissbier, a richly textured beer that, with its elegant notes of banana custard and sprinkle of allspice, drinks almost like a Vitus. For what it’s worth, Schnitzlbaumer’s beers aren’t my favourite among Traunstein’s three breweries — a few hits, a few misses.
Reading that, I suddenly realize I only picked that passage so I and now you can say Schnitzlbaumer. Schnitzlbaumer. Schnitzlbaumer. As I approach retirement, I am never that surprised what I knucklehead I am. (Was that why the boss gave me that big pat on the back?) Still, probably more likely to see me on a train holiday like that compared to a cruise. But that’s me.
Note #1: A.I. sourced? Or just drifty and even a bit presumptuous?
Note #2: “It’s like K-Pop…”
Note #3: OK Zedder.
For me, beer is like sports. Some folk drill down into the OBP, SLG and OPS of baseball players. Me? I just liked the Expos and now just like the Red Sox. They have sucked. They have won it all. So I do find it odd when beer writers call those at a different level of fandom abstraction “mansplainers” when they are clearly just shit talkers. If we accept that people like what they like they will also talk shit about what they like. ‘Twas ever so. In fact, there is so much shit talked about beer one can wonder where the facts may be found. But sometimes a study is revealing in terms of both ends of the research as Pete showed this week in his review of 15 mass market mainly lighter beers:
Many drinkers do unite in insisting that all the big multinational brands taste the same. This is not true. Some taste faintly of beer. Others taste of nothing. A sad few taste so bad, you wonder if you might have run over the brewer’s dog years ago and they’ve been plotting their revenge ever since. Nonetheless, I’ve tried all the most popular beers myself and ranked them from best (or least worst) to worst. Here’s hoping this helps you next time you’re faced with nothing but the usual pub suspects.
The findings are solid. Asahi is “clean and crisp, designed to cut through fatty fried food“, #3 Guinness “kept well… it is much better than this faint praise suggests” and #4 Heineken is a “little sweet, but it has integrity.” One thing I have always disagreed with is the idea that light beers are distinct from good beers. As homebrewers know, making something subtle is both more difficult and more rewarding than a bombastic brew. I’m quite happy with anything on the upper end of Pete’s list.
Going for something a bit more haute, Alistair checked one tick off his list when he headed to the hills of Virginia and Alpine Goat Brewing:
To get to Alpine Goat there is a little bouncing along a gravel track, but the views from the brewery and its beer garden over to the Shenandoah National Park are more than worth it. Seriously, if there is a more picturesque brewery in Virginia, I haven’t been there yet. Having packed the kids off with a ball, frisbee, and boomerang to snag a table with space for them to play, we went to the bar and naturally I ordered the pilsner…
Frisbee and boomerang? Lordly. Next, why did I think “PelliProtz!!!” when I checked my emails this morning? Because this week’s feature in Pellicle is by Roger Protz who wrote about Bodger’s, a barley wine from The Chiltern Brewery which has been branded in honour of Roger Protz:
A “bodger” today means someone who does a shoddy job, cuts all available corners, takes the money and runs. But centuries ago, in rural Buckinghamshire, it meant something quite different. It referred to craftsmen who built chain-link fences for farmers to safeguard their crops and animals. Bodger’s, a barley wine from The Chiltern Brewery, celebrates that tradition. As mentioned, the brewery has recently released a special edition of the beer—one with my name and image on the label. It’s Chiltern’s generous way of thanking me for my support towards the brewery, and the wider independent brewing sector, over a writing career that has spanned several decades. The beer is a powerful 8.4% ABV, and has helped to restore a beer style with its roots in the 18th and 19th centuries.
Worthy. And I see that Katie Mather made the news this week, sharing her analysis of the differences with recent brewery closings in the UK with Jo Gilbert:
Speaking to Drinks Retailing, beer expert Katie Mather noted that “each brewery has different issues.” Regarding Molson Coors’ acquisition and subsequent closure of Sharp’s, she said: “This is a common pattern in the beer industry. Small breweries are picked up by bigger ones to extract value and ultimately crash the brand into obscurity.” Conversely, she added: “Brewdog was gutted by its owners’ greed and hubris and, sadly, it’s the workers let go on a 15-minute Teams call and the ordinary people who thought they’d be able to make some money from Equity For Punks who are left with nothing.”
Correct. And there is a great story of another sort death of craft brewing’s irrational and perhaps also manufactured exhuberence in the stock valuation of Boston Beer over the last five years, as reported in Seeking Alpha:
While other stocks declined due to the pandemic-induced shockwave, SAM took off, briefly exceeding $1,300 per share, or $13 billion market cap, on April 23, 2021, after the company reported a whopping YOY growth of 38.9% for revenue and 32.6% for gross profit for Y2020. The height of the drinking party did not last long. By June 2022, as its revenue and gross profits growth decelerated, the stock dropped back to $341. It has been generally declining since then to reach today’s $225 or so. The magnitude of the rise and decline in such a short time window is striking. However, the dramatic rise and equally dramatic fall are not the most interesting part. What is far more instructive is how such a dramatic repricing occurred—and what it reveals about the risks of investing without valuation discipline.
And there’s even another sort of interesting change in the beer market in Korea these days, too, as reported in The Korea Times:
A man in his 20s agreed, noting the appeal. “Japanese beer has a premium feel,” he said. “When I want something different from what I usually drink, Japanese beer is my first choice.” The current boom stands in sharp contrast to recent years. In 2018, Japan exported 12.5 billion yen (about 118.2 billion won) worth of beer to Korea. Exports then plunged to 900 million yen (about 8.5 billion won) in 2020 following the launch of the ‘No Japan’ boycott. The movement began in 2019 after Tokyo restricted exports of vital semiconductor materials, viewed by Korea as an economic retaliation against a Korean Supreme Court ruling that ordered Japanese companies to compensate victims of colonial-era forced labor.
Finally, speaking of politics and division, the Minocqua Brewing Company in Wisconsin has made an offer that one day is guaranteed to pay off:
“Our notorious offer of free beer when ‘he’ dies is still on the table, and for all those who thought that internationally viral post was a little too dark or ‘classless,’ here’s exhibit ‘A’ on what’s good for the goose is good for the gander,” the statement there read. “For the Fox News and Daily Mail reporters who shamed us cuz he’s ‘still the President,’ will you be shaming ‘Shitler’ as well about his most recent post?”… The brewery added an update, “we meant the Madison Taproom because that’s open all year, if he dies in the summer, then it’s gonna be the Minocqua Taproom.”
That’s a date! I mean it would seem petty and even crass but, jeese, how many other breweries are going to do the same thing? Do you agree? Is going low a no go? As you consider that, please check out Boak and Bailey who are posting every Saturday and adding to their fabulously entertaining footnotes week after week at Patreon. And look out for more of Stan’s new “One Link, One Paragraph” format. Then hunt out something in someone’s archives! Leave oblique comments on someone’s post from 2009!! Listen to a few of Lew’s podcasts and get your emailed issue of Episodes of my Pub Life by David Jesudason on certain Fridays. And Phil Mellows is at the BritishBeerBreaks. Once a month, as noted, Will Hawkes issues his London Beer City newsletter and do sign up for Katie’s wonderful self-governing totes autonomous website featuring The Gulp, too. Ben’s Beer and Badword seems to be on pause since November but there is reading at The Glass which is going back to being a blog. Any more? We have Ontario’s own A Quick Beer and All About Beer is still offering a range of podcasts – and there’s also Mike Seay’s The Perfect Pour. Plus follow the venerable Full Pint podcast! And there’s the Craft Beer Channel on Youtube. Check out the archives of the Beer Ladies Podcast. See you next week when I will be retired. Hence that photo up there. If you come back next week we’ll play a game called “did Al just screw up his future finances putting him in the poor house by when he hits 76 in 2039?” Oh. Me. Nerves.














