July 2023 – A Good Beer Blog

The Absolutely Last No Doubt About It Beery News Notes Of July 2023

It’s a very busy week. A good tiring busy week. Old pals are coming this weekend. Family visitors left yesterday. And a really tough bit of business negotiations at work Tuesday and Wednesday. Summer. Folk on the move. Including me. Which leaves me tired. But I am bouyed by some of the great beer reading out there this week. Last week was a bit dreary but not this one. I am all a bit… you know… excited by all the jam packed excitement. Practically rippling. As illustrated. Not like Gary. Gary is quiet. Alone. But not alone in being alone. If you know what I mean.*

Where was I? For starters we see that another great article by Alistair Reece of Fuggled fame has landed in Pellicle, this time about Virginia’s Black Narrows Brewing and how they approach the question of “local”:

Remarkably, almost 90% of his ingredients are sourced from his home state. The majority of his hops are grown about 50 miles down the shore from Chincoteague Island, Josh only brews with malt from Murphy & Rude Malting in Charlottesville, and for his Gose, he uses oyster liquor, the water from inside an oyster shell, sourced from local oyster shucking factories that would otherwise pour it away. The beer that’s perhaps most emblematic of Josh’s dedication to using local ingredients is his corn lager, How Bout It, brewed with an heirloom variety of corn called Bloody Butcher that has been grown on the Eastern Shore since the middle of the 19th century, and which Josh has become a steward of.

I like it. But… dangle, preposition, dangle. I bet it’s proper in the Gaelic. Gotta be, right? And in GBH, we have another excellent piece of writing from David Jesudason about the Jamaican-owned pubs of Brixton, London in the 1960s:

The majority of South London’s Jamaican-owned pubs were located on Coldharbour Lane, a major thoroughfare which runs between the neighborhoods of Brixton and Camberwell. It was a poor area even before members of the Windrush Generation settled in London, and with their arrival came depictions of the area as a ghetto by the white media, even though the newcomers were able to forge a strong sense of community. From the 1960s onwards, Coldharbour Lane witnessed a flowering of Black-owned businesses, especially in and around Brixton Market, including grocers, barbers and record shops.

Excellent. And The Mudgemaster5000 has posted a post with this interesting observation about thems who write about beer and how they may also avoid certain places:

The biggest enemy of cask quality is slow turnover and, while overall volumes have fallen, the number of lines hasn’t dropped to follow suit. There’s nothing like quick sales to paper over a lack of cellarmanship skills. But, while they may be fully aware of the problem, if the people who write about beer seldom experience poor quality themselves, it won’t seem particularly urgent to them. The battle for cask quality is being fought in the outlets that the beer writers and enthusiasts never visit. No doubt this Autumn there will be the usual round of hand-wringing about cask beer quality and declining sales. But, as usual, the industry will sagely nod, dismiss it as someone else’s problem, and move on.

Ron has been describing the English beer trade in the 1970s, including in this post on offerings you might see in an average pub:

Whilst looking for something completely different, I tripped over a series of images for pub price lists from the 1970s. The first thing that struck me was how short some of them were. A couple of draught beers and half a dozen bottled ones. A far narrower offering than in pubs today. The price list we’re looking at today is from John Smith. It doesn’t say that on it, but it’s pretty obvious from the beers. One word of caution. This looks like a generic list, rather than from a specific pub. Not every pub would have sold the full selection of draught beers in the list. Many would have had just a Bitter, Mild, Lager and a Keg Bitter.

Note: 13.5p for a wee Cream Sherry back then. Also note from today’s news: non-alcoholic beer for dogs and for children as well as beer in vending machines as we are told in The Guardian:

Anyone watching the Ashes at Old Trafford this week will have seen the EBars, a wall of mobile vending machines pouring pints at the touch of a button. They were at Manchester international festival last week too, where even those despairing at yet another ancient industry being dehumanised by technology couldn’t resist a pint of Amstel for £4. There are 40 automated EBar kiosks in the UK, popping up regularly everywhere from Murrayfield Stadium in Scotland to Twickenham in London. When Sam Fender played a series of huge homecoming gigs last month at St James’ Park, Newcastle United’s home ground, the EBars were deployed to quench the thirst of thousands of his fans.

What is the fuss? We had one of those in the workplace cafeteria in Holland back in 1986. Or at least one offering wee little Heinekens tinnies for a guilder or two. Speaking of history, Andreas Krennmair did a bit of unpacking this week, tracking the locations of the breweries of Bamburg Germany as described in Das Bamberger Bier, oder praktische, auf chemische Grundsä from 1818. He actually started out thinking that this was a job for our man in Amsterdam but then…

My initial plan was to just send Ron an email with a few corrections, but very quickly I realized that I should turn these into a proper map, not just for myself, but for everyone to look at… When I created this, certain patterns became apparent very quickly. The 65 breweries were not just spread out over the city, but they formed clusters. If you’ve ever been to Bamberg, you may remember how the breweries Spezial and Fässla are opposite of each other. This is not a happy accident, but rather a remnant of basically one big street full of breweries. Only these two breweries remain nowadays, back 200 years ago, the road that was then called Steinweg and is nowadays Untere and Obere Königstraße was home to a whopping 21 (!!) breweries, spanning over just ~400 metres.

Lumpy. Very lumpy. Unlike Stan who issued another edition of Hop Queries reporting on the front lines of the hop glut… which admittedly does sound all a bit lumpy:

It would take an historic disaster to wipe out the surplus of many of the most popular varieties. However, the difference between the Saaz harvest in 2021 (best production 25 years) and 2022 (half of 2021 production) is a reminder that #beerisagriculture. A wildcard this year in the Yakima Valley is “early bloom,” that is plants flowering early after an extremely cold April. It has been most apparent in Centennial, Simcoe and Cluster, but may also negatively impact the yield of other varieties. Adding to the challenge, Eric Desmarais at CLS Farms explained, is that “split bloom” usually accompanies early bloom. What looks from a distance to be one bine climbing a string may be made up to as many as six. What typically happens, he said, is the more advanced bines grow too tall before the longest day of the year and start flowering. “But the shorter vines stay vegetative and are on a more typical flowering schedule . . . and many times flower at the correct or near correct time.”

Yes, beer is agriculture. Not a mystery. Are these the great three sins in beer writing? – (i) brewery owner bios or BOBs, (ii) using a ten dollar word where a fifty cent one will do and (iii) when cornered, defaulting to vauge wanderings of the mind suggesting there is alchemy, magic or mystery in beer.**

Finally and speaking of which, this week’s point of view discussion was led by Boak and Bailey who asked whether beer felt boring. Their latest Substack newsletter includes subheadings like “The thrill is gone” and “Is beer just worse?” Jeff responded saying or at least effectively saying that if you understood beer on as many levels as he does you would understand. I paraphrase. And I jest. But I do disagree with this:

For a good decade, beer was incredibly exciting. Breweries opened like crazy, new styles were reshaping the landscape, and everyone was getting into good beer. For a decade, craft beer was the fun party and everyone wanted to be there. For those of us who got used to that mode of being—or who didn’t know anything else—2023 has the feel of the hangover after the party. We have vague regrets and our moods are dark. A world in which beer isn’t the coolest party in town must be a boring one in which nothing is happening. Time to move on.

See, having spent the last third of my life scribble around here I can confirm my own personal view (and the view of a lot of people if we are honest) has been that beer was actually not all that incredibly exciting at all points in time and that for the most part everyone was not getting into it at all. That was just how the trade promoted it. And the over reaching trade writers wrote about it.*** And, yes, some folks welcomed it. Certainly. But fifteen years ago good beer was also difficult to define as either craft or kraphtt and was already a couple of decades into fobbing off dubious awards. The groundwork was also being established for its own self-inflicted demise which really had hit its stride by 2016. So… it’s been rife with concurrent contrary tensions. Not so much a cycle as a constant pageeant of parallel but conflicting points of view. Yes, we do want to love good beer and good beer culture – but then we notice how utterly unlovable it can be. That all being the case, it is both interesting and dull… and shall always be. Which means both Boak and Bailey as well as Jeff are right – but which of course also means I am righterer. My only goal achieved. Again.

Roll the credits! As per, you can check out the many ways to connect even including at my new cool Threads presence @agoodbeerblog. Have you checked out Threads? They appear to achieved to make social media offer less and less. Brilliant but I never got IG either. Don’t forget the voices on Mastodon, the newer ones noted in bold:

Anyone else? And, yes, we also check the blogs, podcasts and newsletters to stay on top of things – including more weekly recommendations from Boak and Bailey every Saturday and Stan at his spot on those Mondays! Get your emailed issue of Episodes of my Pub Life by David Jesudason on many Fridays. And Phil Mellows is at the BritishBeerBreaks. Once a month, Will Hawkes issues his London Beer City newsletter and do sign up for Katie’s now more occassional but always wonderful newsletter, The Gulp, too. Ben’s Beer and Badword is back! And check out the Atlantic Canada Beer Blog‘s weekly roundup. There is new reading at The Glass. Any more? Yes! Check to see the highly recommended Beer Ladies Podcast. And the long standing Beervana podcast . There is the Boys Are From Märzen podcast too and check out the travel vids at Ontario’s own A Quick Beer. There is more from DaftAboutCraft‘s podcast, too. All About Beer has introduced a podcast. There’s also The Perfect Pour. Plus follow the venerable Full Pint podcast. And the Craft Beer Channel on Youtube soon celebrating a decade of vids. And remember BeerEdge, too, and The Moon Under Water… if you have $10 a month for this sort of thing… I don’t. Pete Brown’s costs a fifth of that. There was also the Beer O’clock Show but that was gone after a ten year run but returned renewed and here is the link!

*We note for those who come after us – though I must say I am not sure I ever really ever know what “vibe-check its off-times” really means.
**I am compelled to submit these observations into evidence: (i) “...a writer can change that story, totally take it in a totally different direction, if they so wish and are able to — bit more magical realism needed perhaps?” and (ii) “…there’s nothing wrong with mystery, I try to use it when I can for if you stuck to the plain facts with beer you would have writing on a par with that covering the drainage industry or the world of pallets…“
***I am reminded of a line from an email many years ago from a beer writer to me speaking of another beer writer “…you aren’t an idiot. I don’t think he is either, but he’s chosen this path that includes him making sense of the beer world for all of us. Which, of course, is impossible.” And, no I won’t.

The Thursday Beery News Notes For Your “Summer’s One Third Over” Warning

Whether calculated by the two summer months of July and August or the astrological summer from solstice to equinox, today pretty marks the ending of the first third. This is your two-thirds of summer warning. WEEEEEEEET!!! Remember, you can still plant seeds in patio pots or right into the ground as you will eat vegetables in September, too. A great time to pick up stuff on discount, too, in prep for garden 2024. And it’s still all good foreplay for a good cold beer, believe me. Or a G+T… if you have the tonic. Hauling seed packets around is tiring thirsty work. Lordy.

What else is going on? Russian proved the value of the loyalty Carlsberg offered this week. As careful readers will recall, last February I broke the news… reported… err, repeated the story that the Danish brewery was seeking ways to re-enter the Russian market despite the issue of its ongoing genocidal invasion of the Ukraine. This week?

Carlsberg said it had not received “any official information from the Russian authorities regarding the presidential decree of the consequences for Baltika Breweries”. The Danish brewer also said it had completed an “extensive process” to separate the Russian unit from the rest of the company. Last month, the company signed an agreement to sell Baltika Breweries but had not yet completed the deal. “Following the presidential decree, the prospects for this sales process are now highly uncertain,” it added.

Ruh-roh. And in the most recent edition of London Beer City, Will Hawkes shared these interesting observations on the state of beer in and amongst the restaurant trade in London:

What is clear is that beer in restaurants has settled into a post-craft rut over the past half-decade, pre- and post-Covid. Restaurants, in the main, want just three beers: lager (the house option), pale ale and one more. The paler and crisper the better. Bottles are preferred, although 330ml cans work – but not 440ml, as Biercraft discovered when Pressure Drop moved to that format, and demand from restaurants plummeted.

Remember those beer dinners and those experts in pairing? What are they experts in now? Speaking of the unreal, Ron vented about one of the fibs of the brewing trade today, the debasedment of IPA as a term:

If there’s a beer style that pisses me of, it’s English IPA. Because it only has the most tenuous connection to any beers brewed in the UK bearing the name. In reality, it’s a recerse-engineerd American IPA, with tweaks to make it English. Basically, reducing the hopping or using English hops. And not based on IPAs brewed in the UK at all. 1.050º to 1.075º, 5% to 7.5% ABV, is what the BJCP guidelines say the strength should be. How many examples do I have that fit those parameters? Not one, either bottled or draught. Though the classic one, Red Triangle/White Shield, is missing. Though, at 1052º, even that only just scrapes in. What do the three draught beers called IPA have in common? Bugger all.

It is true. Needy US craft has poached so much of the terminology in its scrambling to pretend the whole ftuit sauced makey-uppy has some connection to brewing traditions. Who is to blame? Who suffers when business decisions backfire? Other than Ron, I mean. Back to a greater reality-based reality, British railroading news from Martin this week:

I can tell you now that drinking beer (or coffee) before boarding ANY train in 2023 is a very bad idea, as the tw*t who was reluctant to let folk sit on an empty chair housing his coat (tw*t) found when he attempted to get to the loo as we crawled past Burton at about 7mph. What is up with trains these days ? They’re all either cancelled or late or squeeze you in like sardines. Sardines who have paid for the privilege.

And in all that unhappiness we add the news that Katie (and Tom) Mather’s hugely optimistic project Corto is closing due to bigger realities than they could have imagined facing:

It has grown into a community hub, where local artists could showcase their work and regular live music nights and events would take place. The couple say they are “extremely proud” to have realised their vison to open their “ideal bar. But in a heartbreaking statement on social media, they say “times have never been harder” than over the past six months of “increasing costs and shrinking turnover”. “We knew the bar was never going to make us rich, but that wasn’t the point,” the statement added. “People have less money now and we understand this. Sadly, we won’t be the only people in this position….”

Glad, then, to have been able to support them in a small way at a trans-Atlantic distance with my now even more cherished cool t-shirt and warm wooly hat. A happier if less serious reality was discussed in The Growler this week, the question of foam and the LUKR faucet:

If we dissect the faucet body, we can observe that it is formed by a nozzle, a mesh, and a longer faucet, making this part effortless to disassemble and clean. The body has an additional part before the shank that will regulate beer flow, called a kompensator. Finally, the handle acquires another dimension because it is tuneable and has a side-pull one with 180-degree freedom of movement. This feature frees the Tapster to control the amount of beer being poured, triggering the ability to try new flavours and textures in foam serving.

Yum. Even if the adjectival cheese is a bit ripe. Speaking of ripe, The Beer Nut had an unhappy experience lately and shared his feelings:

… it’s not a good lager at all, leaning too far in to the rustic farmhouse thing, except without the charm. Were it a home brew I’d be suggesting its maker do something about fermentation temperature before attempting anything else similar. Since it’s not I’ll just say thanks but no thanks.

Note: I didn’t know it was possible to out-newbie the newbie guides but someone found a way. Buy in a good store. Got it. Here’s an actual news flash… beer is going out of style in some stores in Canada:

A trip to a grocery store in Toronto for your favourite wine or beer could leave you empty-handed. That’s because a handful of grocers in the city have quietly stopped selling alcohol due to rising levels of theft and razor-thin margins. “It’s really becoming unmanageable and getting out of hand. And so some grocers have taken the decision to remove these products from their shelves,” Retail Council of Canada spokesperson Michelle Wasylyshen told CTV News Toronto.

That’s sort of amazing if you ask me. Never thought that it was a matter of the wrong location for the market. And, you know, I wish there was an urban winemaker like this in my town who could come and deal with the mess of my tiny vineyard to add to their vats. This week’s Pellicle article by Paddy Gardiner features someone doing something like that but not much like that in London:

I think we never want to be 100% English, but we’d like to do more and more. That said, my argument around the sustainability side of bringing fruit in is that we only use road transport and ferries, we don’t use any air freight. We only bring in fresh bunches of grapes in reusable crates. The only impact carbon footprint-wise is the journey from the vineyard. The truth is that any wine that you buy from outside of the UK will have travelled that journey, but usually in a heavy glass bottle, and often rerouted around various storage facilities and distributors. If you eat or drink anything you haven’t grown yourself, then it has to have travelled. Then it’s about minimising impact, which [for us] looks like reusable crates and only using road transport.

Speaking of wine journalism, the slow death of The Montreal Gazette sees the conclusion of the 16 year run of Bill Zacharkiw‘s wine column, one that he celebrated with the republication on a favourite column – the pairing of wine and… ketchup:

I do know that after years of eating the stuff, ketchup is problematic for wine. It is both sweet and vinegary, and can have a decidedly herbal, earthy edge. Its powerful flavour tends to dominate whatever you are eating or drinking… What was a bit shocking was how many of the wines actually tasted bad with ketchup. I have done dozens of food- and wine-pairing trials and rarely have I seen good wines turn absolutely undrinkable when paired with something. Well, this is what happened.

Boom! And, speaking of which, Stan dropped the mic on the Anchor closing that sucked a lot of the fresh air out of the room:

…you’ve probably read enough already (including the stories I would link to), so I will simply point to one about the property the brewer is sitting on.

Gary also shared his thoughts which I’m largely in agreement with:

In the end Anchor mattered because it made beer people wanted – not because it gave expression to American myth, or was a counter-culture hero. Maytag, scion of the famous washing machine family, especially was never that. Yes, Anchor resonated for years as the little brewery that could. It played off that image for a long time, but image and reality are different things.

Yup. It’s been a little wicked watching folk get things wrong* about the brewery in their respective obituaries and elegies, laced with what is really a form of commercial propaganda. It was not actually the oldest craft brewery. It did not revive porter in the US. And it was propped up by significant Maytag money in the first decade. And, as the press release says, “…there’s still a chance another buyer might emerge during the liquidations process…” which is now in place. As I say, it’s good to let the fresh air in and get all this out to set the record straight.**

Finally and somewhat related to the airing of things, Boak and Bailey asked an odd but perhaps timely question this past week. And The Tand Himself gave the culturally appropriate Scottish*** “how’s yer bowels?” obsessed answer. [Ed.: …shivvers…]

There. Once again, that’s it! There’s a lot of different forms of negativity around this week. These are those times it seems. As per, you can check out the many ways to connect even including at my new cool Threads presence @agoodbeerblog. Have you checked out Threads? They appear to achieved to make social media offer less and less. Brilliant but I never got IG either. Don’t forget theose voices on Mastodon, the newer ones noted in bold:

*I’ve never seen so many slappy-backy semi-starving semi-pro newsletter jockeys in the small citation circle eagerly rushing to get a bit of brewing industry news so wrong as was seen this week. I have no idea what this even means: “…So many craft breweries exist because of Anchor“… given, you know, how no one followed the business model. At all. Interestingly, GBH never mentioned the whole affair, preferring to “break” the news about, what, the hard kombucha market? How long will it be before “beer” quietly slips out of that organ’s name as it wanders away?
**You know, if another failing brewery instead of Anchor had been bought by a silver spooner, another that sold 600 barrels p.a. of soured beer in the mid-1960s, no one really would have noticed Anchor slip away under back then with all the others that died off in that wave of industry rationalizations. But if you tell the younger folk that these days and, well…
***ma peeps so…

The Thursday Beery News Notes For The Week I Did Rock

Well, to be fair, it was more like rock-grass. Prog and Western. Yup, we headed north to Ottawa on the weekend and saw Alison Krauss and Robert Plant play an outdoor concert. I even had a beer as they played. A Hop Valley Bubble Stash by Creemore. At twelve bucks it wasn’t as shocking as the 17$ for a small glass of Ontario made Pinot Grigio. The beer tasted exactly like an IPA, you know… if you are wondering. Honestly, I was just happy that the drinks weren’t distracting. I was trying to pay attention to the music. I only heard one “baby” but really wanted to hear him rip just one “babybabybabybabybaby.” We did hear a couple of “oooh yeahs” and maybe an “oooh yeah oooh yeah” but, to be honest, we weren’t sure. Great show. Got me a tour tee. Cost me less than three of those dodgy Pinots.

As a result, I am bouyed this week by pure positivity. We also saw a bit of that this week from Boak and Bailey who wrote about one beer shop in Plymouth England – Vessel:

What was clear from that conversation was that Vessel had not only survived the pandemic but to some extent found its feet, and its people. How to describe Katie and Sam? They’re the kind of people who default to smiling. They are optimistic by nature, and full of ideas and energy. They’d made it through the pandemic with a mix of deliveries, takeaway, events over zoom, and sheer enthusiasm. That challenge out of the way, they told us about plans for expansion, for a brewery, for more trips and tastings.

Boom! Good stuff. See also their post on The Cockleshell in Saltash, Cornwall packed with pure perceptive positivity like this: “There’s plenty of greebling, for example, with every surface covered with nick-nacks, oddments and vintage decor.” Nice. And not just nice nice. Greebling sweetness nice.

And Liam wrote a tribute to Beer Twitter itself, sort of an interesting subject in these days of further collapse and sudden new competiton from Threads. And his approach was comparing the social media landscape to his choice of pubs:

…for me personally the place operates in the same general way. I can enter through the same front door and choose who to sit with, who to talk to, and who to ignore – although admittedly I’m not on the premises as often as others so perhaps that makes a difference. For me it’s the people within the walls who make the pub – it’s only a building after all – and if you enjoy conversing and interacting with them then why leave or change locations? I’ve investigated some other pubs to see what the fuss is about; I’ve even drank in one or two – but they are not quite the same. They feel wrong, they are not a good fit for me and not all of the people I enjoy mingling with are there either.

I agree. That is a good way of putting it. Jeff, anticipating the same patient’s final stages might be approaching, wrote something of a sweet goodbye to Twitter this week:

Unlike any other social media platform, Twitter allowed me to build my own community and have immediate and sometimes extensive discussions with the people in it. That’s you. I’ve always appreciated how generous you’ve been with your engagement.

I can only say that speaks for me, too. There has always been a lot of comment that #BeerTwitter is a dumpster fire but it has been a great resource, too. And fun. At this moment, however, things as feeling all a bit endtimesy as Jeff also shared this:

I write a blog. About *beer.* It is unnecessary. It is largely for amusement. (Though I’d like to think edification plays a small role.) I would NEVER debase the site by throwing up a garbage AI post.

The endtimsey big news in US craft this week I suppose is the press release issued by Sapporo on Wednesday, as described by Dave Infante in his newsletter Fingers:

This morning at about 1:45am local time, Anchor Brewing Company issued a brief press release announcing its imminent liquidation, citing “a combination of challenging economic factors and declining sales since 2016.” The brewery has been operating in one form or another since 1896; its current owner, Japan’s Sapporo conglomerate, acquired the firm and its iconic Potrero Hill facility in 2017 for a reported $85 million.

Quite a blow given the narrative of craft’s whole genesis story. I am not convinced (at all) that the hagiography necessarily matches reality (at all) but I sure did like Liberty Ale back when Ontario was part of the sales footprint a few decades back. There has been much by way of erroneous speculation, questioning, cherry tree chopping, wailing and rending of garments along with some common sense and respect… but… the bottom line is this from The Olympian:

I ran a cheap “pizza and pint” feature. It helped for a while, but then hazy IPA became a thing. Beer geeks turned their laser focus on to that style and unfortunately, a lot of other brands/styles just slowed down or stopped selling altogether. Anchor was one. I think there’s only so much life a publican or retailer can do to breathe life into a cherished heritage brand before they finally give up and switch to something new and shiny. But when I see 3 cleaning dates marked on the top of a keg, it’s a slow mover and time to move.

AKA: no one bought the Cro-Magnon of beers anymore. Be honest. You may have loved it, but you didn’t actually like it all that much. Elsewhere, beer sales in Romania down 9% in the first months of 2023. Moving on, no- and low-alc beer sales well up in England but there is one hitch in the stats:

Perhaps more surprisingly, away from our living rooms, the British Beer and Pub Association says pubs are also chalking up a 23% rise in driver-friendly beer over the last year, with sales more than doubling since 2019, just before the pandemic… the overall UK sales of low- and no-alcohol beer – which covers anything up to 1.2% ABV – still represents just 0.7% of sales of UK consumption.

The immediacy of the cultural paradigm shift that has been caused by David Jesudason’s book Desi Pubs A guide to British-Indian pubs, food and culture can’t be understated… and The Morning Advertiser knows it:

Like accidentally biting on a cardamom pod, ‘Desi Pubs’ has exploded on our complacent palates and spiced up the way that we think about the great British pub…

Even though the literary cheese is a bit notched up in the way that Phil Mellows puts it, he’s spot on that the charm is also real and widely embraced, triggering fond and thoughtful discussion and eager recommendations. Phil’s article goes on to say this book as shaken the beer world like the popular and widely read works of Pete Brown as well as Boak and Bailey did a decade ago. So far it is the thing of 2023. Just like Anchor is the not thing. It’s the thang. The thing and thang of 2023. Right there.

I also would like to say that being positive is not about just being a booster. There are things needing improving, needing to be addressed. Otherwise, any idea of community is a convenient falsehood. To that end, Beer is For Everyone published a personal essay by Lindsay Malu Kido, the group’s founder. It was on the poor experience many faced at the Craft Brewers Conference in Nashville, discussed here back in May. The findings against the Brewers Association were telling:

The Brewers Association had the power and responsibility to set the stage for a more supportive and inclusive conference experience. While they can’t control every individual interaction, they can certainly influence the overall atmosphere. By staying silent on the political climate in Tennessee and not visibly showing support for marginalized attendees, they indirectly contributed to the isolation I, and many others, felt. Their failure to act emphasized the dismissiveness and lack of care that seemed to permeate the conference.

Why is this such a persistent part of craft, not just the bigotries but the institutionalized comfort with the bigotries? What is it about beer… hmm… Perhaps not unrelatedly, Gary wrote this week about a 1949 study of pub culture in England which even included a pointed criticism of the high and holy mid-1900s UK “Beer is Best” brewing trade advertising campaign and how its encouragement of mindless drinking was worth noticing. To be fair, Gary is not fully convinced by the authors – but summarizes the results very fairly:

The period they describe exemplified the heyday of the English pub and draught beer, with men (usually) supping from one to three or four pints every evening afer work. The was apart from the dissolute group who spend most of their day in the public house. A shopheeper had that sad fate, leaving the shop to his wife’s administration… The authors tend to be hard, once again, on the drinking ethos, stating at one pint the typical drinking pattern progresses from “exhileration to “anaesthesia”. For them, the idea of the public house as valued community cetre is pretty much, to use an appropriate vernacular, tosh, excepting in some rural areas.

Speaking of the disfunctional in plain view, it is sad that one of the legacies of what people call craft beer is this sort of design disfunction:

If you put fruit pulp in beer and do not fully ferment it this happens. It has happened to other breweries over the years. It isn’t just unfortunate, it’s dangerous. There is NO reason to have unregulated, unplanned fermentation in sealed containers.

Note: if that is what is happening on the beer store shelf, what the hell is happening in your guts? Don’t the people who buy this stuff know the burbling brook is not suppose to be a feature?

Aaaaannnnnd… once again, no politician of any stripe in Canada suffers from displays of beer culture prowess:

Vancouver Mayor Ken Sim (left) generated lots of social media buzz when he shotgunned a beer on stage at the Khatsahlano Street Party on July 9.

As a result of our political culture, I wonder if this sort of thing operates very differently north and south of the 49th parallel:

The Beer Institute, a national trade association representing the $409 billion beer industry, hired Cornerstone Government Affairs to lobby on economic, budget, tax and appropriations policies impacting large beer producers. The Beer Institute recently launched StandWithBeer.org, which alleges large liquor companies exploit tax loopholes to lower their effective tax rate. John Sandell, former tax counsel to the House Ways and Means Committee, will work on the account.

And this week’s feature at Pellicle by Rachel Hendry is about the placement of fine wine in the TV show Succession. [Confession: never watched one episode. Never watched on of The Wire, Madmen or Dexter or a whole whack of other must see TV for that matter.] I do really like this sharp observation shared from a wine writer’s Twitter feed about one drinking scene:

In a Twitter thread by sommelier Rapha Ventresca, they break down why this choice of wine is so intriguing. As half-brother, not only is Connor the oldest of the four siblings, but his oddities have him consistently excluded from the machiavellian manoeuvres that make up most of Succession’s plot. Château Haut-Brion, then, is not only the oldest of the first four Bordeaux Chateaux, but it is the only one grown outside of Medoc, to have majority Merlot in its blend and to be bottled in a sloping shape that breaks away from the traditional Bordeaux style. In essence, it sticks out like a sore thumb. Not unlike the man using it to drown his sorrows the night before his wedding.

Sweet. I had a pal who knew so much about trucks and cars that he was a pain to go to the movies with. In any given car crash scene, he would count off how many vehicles were actually filmed and presented as the one car driven through the mess by the hero. Me, I price the flower arrangements given I was raised by a florist and trained in The Netherlands myself in the wholesale trade. No one in 99% of all movies can afford the flower arrangements in their home. But I’ve told you that before. Must have.

There. Once again, that’s it! Ooooh, yeah… baaaaaaybeeeee… As per, you can check out the many ways to connect including at my new cool Threads presence @agoodbeerblog. Have you checked out Threads? Seems a bit thin to me so far. But I don’t like IG and it is like mini-IG. Don’t forget theose voices on Mastodon, the newer ones noted in bold:

*And finally the list of the departed newsletters and podcasts or those in purgatory. Looks like both Brewsround and Cabin Fever died in 2020, . We appreciate that the OCBG Podcast is on a very quiet schedule these days – but it’s been there now and again. The Fizz died in 2019. Plus Fermentation Radio with Emma Inch seems done and the AfroBeerChick podcast is gone as well! The Fingers Podcast packed it in citing, umm, lack of success… as might have been anticipated, honestly. Did they suffer a common fate? Who knows?

The Thursday Beery News Notes That Are Closer to 2024 Than 2022

Nights are getting shorter. And baseball is getting into full swing now that the national holidays are behind us. Well, not Bastille Day but it seems every day is Bastille Day in France these days. No, it’s the cooler days now that we long for. Baseball and a beer. A time of romance. To your right, an image from the website formerly known as Twitter, a view of a 1960s or ’70s beer concession at the old Tigers Stadium in Detroit. 60 cents a beer. Anything you like as long as it is Stroh’s. Crush your damn cups. That’s what they are thinking: “he’s not gonna crush, is he…” “Nope, he ain’t.”

Speaking of bulk beer, we are about a year and a half from 2025 when the rules of buying beer in Ontario may change to give us something we have not had in over a century – beer in corner stores:

In the spring of 2023, the Ford government launched consultations on expanding sales to corner stores. Participants were asked to sign non-disclosure agreements, so little is known about what is on the table. Dave Bryans, CEO of the Ontario Convenience Stores Association, says he received an invitation to consult on the proposal. “We are inching if not moving faster towards an open market,” he told CTV News Toronto on Tuesday, noting that he has participated in multiple consultation processes over 13 years and signed numerous NDAs that prevent him from talking about the meetings themselves.

Excellent. Nothing gives confidence in things moving towards the public good like numerous non-disclosure agreements. Well, maybe the level of confidence one has in the dancing around, the avoiding saying anything like “decline” while not saying much else. (Hmm… those ladies up there? Straight talkers. Crush the damn cups.) Question: is an antipodiean decline really a rise? Nope. Perspective: other craft is suffering too… and yet some sorts are even making a comeback.

Conversely, there was a surprisingly good bit of information in an article by Jessica Mason in The Drinks Business on how craft brewers can actually cope in these troubled times. I say surprising because I first thought there was little chance that some sensible advice could be condensed into such a tight format but I think I might have been wrong:

One thing the beer experts had in common was their admittance that the situation was not easy and there still was not a one-size-fits-all piece of advice. That this was why their advice was so intricate and far-reaching to include all areas of the business. Burgess admitted: “I know it’s not a single piece of advice, but it’s a war on all sides to survive right now” and said “OST and a really good software system to control price are probably tops right now, but all the other points blend in to more than just a single point”. Sadler advised: “I would, personally, avoid trying out new styles without some serious consideration. Stick to the core beers that sell and sell well. Maintaining a positive cash flow, albeit small, is a big plus rather than being another ‘me too’ beer using the latest hop or technique.”

More good advice? Ron is right. Write and record.

Pellicle‘s feature this week is a profile by Phil Mellows of Bass pale ale which, thankfully, does not actually include the word “magic” despite the promo. The news is not necesarily all that good:

There is currently no Bass at all in the whole of East Anglia, and only one pub serving it in Sussex, Surrey and Kent—the Miners Arms in Sevenoaks. We know all this because someone keeps track of the pubs pouring it. In 2018 Ian Thurman, concerned the beer would disappear, gathered a willing group of Bass lovers to report sightings around the country. This crowdsourced research discovered that the number of pubs with Bass permanently on the pumps had fallen to a mere 350. A beer once drunk in thousands of pubs across the land was displaying all the symptoms of an endangered species.

It’s part of a big picture, as the UK’s Office for National Statistics explains:

The data, which was produced by price comparison firm Idealo, reveals there has been a 25% growth in the number of consumers buying beer in the off-trade from supermarkets and independent retailers. It shows that British drinkers bought some £4.1bn per year on beer to drink at home, which is up 25% on 2020 levels. Analysts from Idealo said the rising cost of living is “making people less willing to go out drinking, but more willing to treat themselves to a bottle of wine or beer during their weekly shop.” The news follows concern about the price of beer in the on-trade. A pint of lager in pubs and bars has risen by more than 50p within the space of a single year, according to ONS data.

But not apparently in Scotland. Who to believe? Well, I do find this believable:

“It’s clear that for most consumers, alcohol is still at the heart of a pub experience but today, many just want a bit less booze,” said Clarke. “That only 4% of moderating pub-goers choose a No-Low beer is not down to lack of product awareness – ads are everywhere – it’s because many drinkers don’t like how they taste.

UPDATE: fonio! fonio!! fonio!!!

In his weekly Monday update, Stan noted an interesting thing or two about the state of homebrewing which might… just might… see a glimmer of hope in these tough times:

The survey does not pretend to represent all homebrewers, but it makes you wonder how the hobby might find a wider audience. And about the crossroads Drew Beechum is referring to in the second link. “Homebrewing is at a crossroads right now. Involvement is declining, homebrew shops and clubs see less interest. Every neighborhood has a brewery or two. Why bother spending 4-8 precious weekend hours making beer that I can buy down the street in a minute?

Why bother? Maybe if you are seeing tough times coming. Me, I really homebrewed the most when I was in forced isolation in Prince Edward Island with sporadic efforts after I started up this thing you are reading over 20 years ago now. Back in those before times, when I was getting by in PEI, everyone I knew there was making something like that, beer or wine or something you traded for beer and wine. To save money – and there was a general ban there back in the day on cans or imports or anything a local political hack could not make a margin on. What would it take for a real comeback?

Speaking of margin, sometimes transparency isn’t always as clear as you might expect. The chart to the left was shared by Bordeaux producer Chateau Bauduc in an effort to explain that (in the UK as of August 1st) a £6.50 bottle of French wine in the UK has 40p worth of actual wine while a £20 has £7. VAT, margin, duty, shipping and packaging make up the other costs. But what is margin? Profit? Note that duty, shipping and packaging are all similar in terms of costs. The VAT rate is the same for each. The variable is return to agricultural and margin.

Hmm… Creole or Cajun?

Mudgie has revisited some startlingly bold assertions about relative values as relates to the pub trade:

If you’re someone who never much cared for pubs in the first place, you can’t really be criticised for staying away now. But if you have professed support for pubs in the past, and you are under 60 in reasonable general health, you really need to consider your position. While the death toll from the pandemic has been appalling and tragic, it has overwhelmingly affected the very old and those already in poor health. It has killed just 300 healthy people in the UK under the age of 60. The fatality rate has been 1 in 9,000 for under-65s, but 1 in 250 for over -65s. Now, when the rate of infection is greatly reduced, you are probably more likely to be killed crossing the road on your way to the pub than from contracting Covid-19 when you get there. To still stay away on the grounds that it is not safe represents a warped and exaggerated perception of risk.

Hmm: “…frightened to death by hysterical propaganda…” What is it about beer writers and public health? Hmm… I think there might be something missing in that analysis. Like this little puzzle about likeminded nations coming together:

According to data from 2021, Hungarian beers are mainly destined for EU Member States (80.46 percent), but the growing trade with East Asian countries is noteworthy. In 2014, China accounted for only 0.71 percent of Hungary’s beer exports, but by 2021, 10.6 percent of beer exports were destined for the Asian country.

Hmm… Speaking of hmm… Beth Demmon wrote a good article for Food & Wine about something that isn’t really either – the Trappist beer business in these times of haze and fruit sauces:

Staunton is optimistic about an ongoing future, even as consumer tastes evolve from the “big Belgian beer” mania of the ‘90s to today’s “drink as fresh as possible” movement. “When someone is told over and over by their local brewers to drink beer that day, and then they find something with a five year shelf life, like Orval, they might look at it cross-eyed,” he laughs. “The whole industry has to do a better job of education and bringing this to the new drinker. If you’re 21 years old and somebody throws an Orval at you, you’re not going to know what to do with it!”

And Beth also published another portrait under her Prohibitchin’ series too, a portrait this month of Arizona brewer Ayla Kapahi:

“It’s silly to say, but it took me a year of working in our production facility when suddenly I looked around, and I’m thinking ‘I see women doing everything. There’s a woman working in our lab, brewing our beer, doing the kegging… wait a second… I don’t think this is common!’” She laughs at the memory now, but says it took some time to figure out how to balance a desire to promote their setup as an achievable goal for others against seeming performative.

And The Beer Nut went to Snalbins… to Snalbins he did go… but on the way out the door, not a lasting linging lovely leisurely…

Maybe it’s because I had been drinking it on a warm day, and perhaps the can hadn’t been chilled down to the requisite temperature, but it all felt a bit soupy to me, being neither cleanly refreshing nor full and rounded. I wasn’t impressed. And the reason I picked it is because I’ve heard it scored very highly in a recent, but as-yet unpublicised, blind-tasted assessment. The opposition mustn’t have been up to much. And so to the airport. Thunderstorms across Europe were disrupting flight patterns, and London Luton was full of harried people with nowhere to go. The Big Smoke Brewery has a concession bar here, one which had run out of ice and several of the beers but was bravely muddling through with two very capable teenagers at the helm.

That’s it! Not much going on this week really. And where it’s going on it’s beer writers interviewing beer writing pals poaching and parroting the work of others, playing job title bingo… craft beer expert… industry analyist. No need of that. It’s now back to you all as always. Talk amongst yourselves. Write something. Something for me to read and cut and paste. And also as per, you can check out the many ways to connect including at my new cool Threads presence @agoodbeerblog and also including these voices on Mastodon, the newer ones noted in bold:

Emergency Beer Twitter May Die Comment Zone

Just in case, you know, there is no place else left to write your tiny notes this weekend…