So… me here, you there. Again. It’s hit the lazy months. Or is it exhausted? As the dawn seems to start at about 4:07 am, so too do the times of laze. Good thing it’s warm enough to stick one’s toes in the big lake, as long as you don’t mind half the pee in America trickling by. I wonder if my attitude has affected the beery news notes this week? Let’s see.
First up, there was plenty written this week on the purchase of San Francisco’s Anchor Brewing. It actually led me to wonder how many days of hangtime the word “Breaking!” possibly can have on social media given how folk were still using it as a prefix to tweets maybe two days after the fact. Anchor is one of those foundational breweries of the fibby revisionist history of craft* so I am not particularly moved by the tales being told – except (a) I loved Liberty Ale when I could find it and (b) I do believe if anyone other than Christ can pull off a resurrection which does form a true twist in the narrative it is going to be Hamdi Ulukaya, upstate New York yogurt magnate.
Speaking of magnates and brewing and fire sales, there was some interesting information from Ron Elmer in The Drinks Business this week, this time about the current value of Boston Beer Co., the business that makes less and less of its revenue from, you know, beer:
Boston’s shares look attractive to a potential suitor, having plummeted more than 25% in the past 12 months. But the stock has jumped almost 31% on the recent rumours which started only two days after the shares closed at their lowest price since February 2019. At today’s price, Boston’s market capitalisation is about US$3.95 billion, far below its record valuation of US$15.98 billion in April 2021. The likely price put on a potential deal is unclear, although it would unusual if it did not include a significant premium, especially as no sale could proceed without the consent of Jim Kock, who founded Boston in 1984 and remains its chairman.
Aside from the Freudian slip, that is quite an eye popping collapse in value – under a quarter of previous corporate worth over just three years. On May 17th, 2024 the stock was worth $260.75 compared to $1,294.93 on April 16th, 2021. That is closer to a drop down to 20% of peak value. Why? Well, if you click on that thumbnail you will see that the five year value really tracked in parallel with the pandemic. Compare it to the shape of the valuation for Moderna over the same period. Then to Constellation Brands. See? Boston Beer may also be the poster child for the general drop in interest in craft beer, too – even though they make more and more drinks that are less and less like beer. Still, hope springs eternal that an investor might be buying something more than a dead cat bounce.
Somewhat related, the Beer Ladies Podcast asked a question this week that was both exactly on point and a bit sad:
In this week’s episode, Lisa, Thandi and Christina debate an ever-popular topic in beer (and other things!) – ethos. Does the ethos of a brewery influence you to buy, or not buy, their beer? What happens when breweries make good beer, but treat their staff badly, or are divisive in their politics? We chat about a few stories that have been in the news over the last few years, and debate our own feelings on separating art from artist.
Just run those thoughts that over in your mind as you consider: (a) it’s only beer (b) there are now exactly one bazillion breweries now, and (c) a huge amount of the beers being made these days are copycats of what everyone else is brewing. So… how can you not believe in ditching the assholes? For me, it is entirely on the beer buyer. Know your stuff. I would point out one comment made elsewhere, in relation to the well deserved dislike of Hazy IPAs recently from Sam Tierney of Firestone Walker:
I know some great brewers who playfully hate on the style and don’t make it, but they tend to be obsessive traditionalists. As long as you aren’t an asshole about it you’re allowed to not like any style.
Which would guide me to recommend a point of consistency. If anyone doesn’t want the beer buying public to act like assholes when they mock the money-making gak, then as a mimimum don’t turn a blind eye to the assholes within the supply side of the equation. Me? My money walks and talks. But, let’s be honest, the big money about the talking about the walking is on Boak and Bailey as they displayed when they ripped out some opinionating this week about a pub crawl they undertook and the beings they encountered thereupon:
…Our fellow customers included a big party of beefy middle-aged blokes in quietly expensive casual clothes… we found ourselves surrounded by classic 00s hipsters who are now in their forties, with kids. These days, the quiffs and waxed moustaches have gone grey, and the vintage workwear has baby sick on it… We found it fairly quiet inside except for a party of stags who kept bursting into song and breaking out in competitive banter… Instead of craft beer dads it was all black T-shirted youths and the background throb of heavy guitar music.
People! I was thinking about all this peopled populating of places when I read another rightly depressing comments from Jessica Mason on the experience of women in beer and the reasons why women like drinking beer with other women:
Personally, I find this side of the research the most galling. Damned if we do & damned if we don’t. Why gender stigma around beer leads to most women’s drinks order falling back onto a glass of fizz or a G&T. Because nobody would judge us making those drinks choices.
Let’s be honest. We all know that (both chemically and culturally) beer attracts, induces, comforts and/or reveals the asshole. Plus women are underrepresented in important positions in the industry so we quite possibly are losing a natural counterbalance. And, even when not taken to that degree, we also know that as mentioned by Rob Sterowski:
I wonder if the “craft beer” movement has been damaging by suggesting you have to rote learn a load of bullshit about styles before you can enjoy beer.
This led me to reach back to the greatest statement on the genesis of point as stated in the film Gregory’s Girl: “Why are boys obsessed with numbers?”
Generally conversely but still speaking of being obsessed with any number of things while also being clearly blessed with natural ability, The Beer Nut left the house and checked out yet another reno at the Guinness World HQ:
A few hours after the doors opened I wasn’t expecting many customers nor much on the menu, so was surprised to find the place packed with tourists and off-duty staff, and a full set of new beers to try. Better get the flights in, so. One definite retrograde step is the loss of the big screen menu, which provided useful information on the beers. Now there’s a sparse retro split-flap display board and a printed menu, which weren’t in agreement on details like what the beers were called and how strong they were. It’s all very well to dream in beer but occasionally you need to wake up and do your proofreading.
Spinning the globe again, from Japan we read an update of a story first shared here last October about a ban on public drinking within the autonomous Shibuya district within Tokyo:
Mayor Ken Hasebe recently told journalists: “We have been stepping up patrols and other efforts over the last year, but we have had people say, ‘Well, the rules say you can drink, don’t they?’ By establishing the rule, we would like to convey the district’s intentions, including during patrols — we would prefer people to enjoy their drinks inside restaurants.” This news may not come as a surprise to local residents… Mayor Hasebe says that local businesses supported the regulations in October 2023 and were behind the push to make them permanent.
Circumnavigating now via the northern pole, being out and about was also on the mind of Lisa Grimm this week who told the tale of her beery trip on the Eurovision trail to Malmo Sweden:
…the trip was a perfect excuse to explore the beery options on offer in the region, and we began with an initial visit to Malmö Brewing Company, located in an old brewery building, appropriately enough. These days, they brew a wide array of the usual hazy IPAs and fruited sours you find in most craft brewery taprooms, but they also have a few more meads, ciders and cocktails than you tend to find in Ireland or the UK.
And speaking of folk out there enjoying themselves, the Times o’London had a bit of a shocking yet not surprising story from the world of professional darts:
… concerns have been raised about the portrayal of a now predominantly sober sport, while alarming alcohol consumption allegedly occurs behind the scenes. The Sunday Times has learnt of an incident where one player had to be placed in the recovery position outside a PDC Pro Tour venue in Wigan. A player was also seen passed out in his chair in the practice room, where photography is prohibited, at a different event after, it is claimed, drinking about ten pints. A large number of professionals are still believed to fear that they cannot play well without alcohol, owing to performance anxiety; very few are widely known to play sober…
Yikes!! Speaking of anxiety and shock, Paste magazine has posted an ode from Jim Vorel to a long lost love – American Amber Ale… with an interesting intro:
As far as consumer selling points go, the allure of “subtlety” is not exactly an easy one to conceptualize and market. Take a look at the snack foods aisle of a grocery store, and you’ll see what I mean. The “crunchiest” potato chips on the shelf? The selling point there is easily grasped. The “tangiest” or “fruitiest” yogurt or ice cream? Ditto. It’s human nature for the consumer to think in terms of superlatives, because in exchange for our hard-earned money, we by and large believe that we deserve the best version of a product. And it’s an understandable fallacy to naturally believe that “best” is largely going to correlate with “most,” because we humans also want bang for our buck. It’s hard-coded into our behavior in a capitalist economy.
Now, you have read my recent thoughts on the individuality and subtly of Hazy IPA Clonefest (or, to quote a yawning Lisa Grimm up there, “…the usual…“) we are living in so to go to that sort of nutty extreme in the other direction to justify a place in the heart for Amber Ale is a bit much. Perhaps it’s just what Robin said: we still have lots of them in Canada. Or maybe it’s just obvious given how there is a whole load of badly thought out beers being sold today fighting it out for the attention of fruity seltzers and RTD drinkers. Maybe you need to think of them as the American version of a Mild. Whatever. But… but if you have ever held a small pile of amber malt in your hand, sniffed it and chewed a few grains. And then realize they can make a beer that tastes like that and can get you buzzed? It’s obvs to anyone who is paying any attention. Drink them for an evening and remember how good they are. And perhaps what a fool you’ve been.
Finally – and for the double! – I like what Robin wrote after reading the piece in Pellicle by Rob MacKay about A.I. and cartoony can lables:
I’ll say this, if you are a brewery that believes in the power of small, independent, local options, you are a hypocrite if you use AI to create your label art and framing it as a small business trying to keep the brand cohesive is intellectually dishonest and downright shitty.
Yup. That being said I pass on any can that has a cartoony label unless I have some other info on what’s in the can that helps me overcome my suspicions about the contents. Cartoon labelled cheese? Bland gak for pre-schoolers. Cartoon labelled bread? It’s going to have candy imbedded in the loaf. I presume I am looking at a sugar bomb. Plus, you know, how A.I. “still constitutes copyright theft—a civil wrong, and under certain circumstances, a criminal offence” as MacKay notes. So… no thanks.
And we roll the credits… well, the credits, the stats the recommends and the footnotes and the many ways to find good reading about beer and similar stuff via any number of social media and other forms of comms connections.** Want to keep up with the news before next Thursday? Check out Boak and Bailey every Saturday and Stan back each Monday. Elsewhere go look at then listen to Lew’s podcast. And get your emailed issue of Episodes of my Pub Life by this year’s model citizen David Jesudason on the odd Fridays. And Phil Mellows is at the BritishBeerBreaks. Once a month, Will Hawkes issues his London Beer City newsletter and do sign up for Katie’s now revitalised and wonderful newsletter, The Gulp, too. Ben’s Beer and Badword is back with all the sweary Mary he can think of! And check out the Atlantic Canada Beer Blog‘s weekly roundup. There is new reading at The Glass which is going back to being a blog in this weeks best medium as message news. Any more? Yes! Check to see the highly recommended Beer Ladies Podcast. That’s quite good. And the BOAS podcast for the bro-ly. And the long standing Beervana podcast …except they have now stood down. Plus We Are Beer People. The Boys Are From Märzen podcast appears suspended as does BeerEdge, too. But not Ontario’s own A Quick Beer. There is more from DaftAboutCraft‘s podcast, too. All About Beer has introduced a few podcasts… but some may be losing steam. And there’s also The Perfect Pour. Plus follow the venerable Full Pint podcast. And the Craft Beer Channel on Youtube. The Moon Under Water… is gone which is not surprising as the ask was $10 a month. Pete Brown’s costs a fifth of that but is writing for 47 readers over there. There was also the Beer O’clock Show but that was gone after a ten year run but returned renewed and here is the link! Errr… nope, it is gone again.
*[MY 2023 COMMENTS REPEATED IN FULL FOR POSTERIRY] The endtimsey big news in US craft this week I suppose is the press release issued by Sapporo on Wednesday, as described by Dave Infante in his newsletter Fingers: “This morning at about 1:45am local time, Anchor Brewing Company issued a brief press release announcing its imminent liquidation, citing “a combination of challenging economic factors and declining sales since 2016.” The brewery has been operating in one form or another since 1896; its current owner, Japan’s Sapporo conglomerate, acquired the firm and its iconic Potrero Hill facility in 2017 for a reported $85 million.” Quite a blow given the narrative of craft’s whole genesis story. I am not convinced (at all) that the hagiography necessarily matches reality (at all) but I sure did like Liberty Ale back when Ontario was part of the sales footprint a few decades back. There has been much by way of erroneous speculation, questioning, cherry tree chopping, wailing and rending of garments along with some common sense and respect… but… the bottom line is this from The Olympian: “I ran a cheap “pizza and pint” feature. It helped for a while, but then hazy IPA became a thing. Beer geeks turned their laser focus on to that style and unfortunately, a lot of other brands/styles just slowed down or stopped selling altogether. Anchor was one. I think there’s only so much life a publican or retailer can do to breathe life into a cherished heritage brand before they finally give up and switch to something new and shiny. But when I see 3 cleaning dates marked on the top of a keg, it’s a slow mover and time to move.” AKA: no one bought the Cro-Magnon of beers anymore. Be honest. You may have loved it, but you didn’t actually like it all that much.
**This week’s update on my own emotional rankings? Facebook still in first (given especially as it is focused on my 300 closest friends and family) then we have BlueSky (128) rising up to maybe… probably… likely pass Mastodon (915) in value… then the seemingly doomed trashy Twex (4,474) hovering somewhere above or around my largely ignored Instagram (162), with sorta unexpectly crap Threads (43) and not at all unexpectedly bad Substack Notes (1) really dragging up the rear – and that deservedly dormant Patreon presence of mine just sitting there.