Category: Craft Fibs

The Thursday Beery News Notes For The Week Of The Big Jab

It’s a good thing that as a teenager I drank really really bad red wine a few times so I had something to measure the reaction I had to the AZ vaccine against. Worst hangover ever. But a welcome one. I was actually more nervous about the immediate reaction than any fear of a slight statistical bump for this or that anomaly. I feel like I expect many did after a night on the old Champale, as illustrated. Mock not. It is apparently still made, has review on BeerAdvocate and been around since 1939.

Trends. That’s why folk read the internets, right? This is my favorite trend story of the week, the state of Heineken sales in 2021:

Volumes jumped 5.4% in the Asia Pacific region, led by double-digit growth in Vietnam, Singapore, and South Korea. Beer sales volumes grew 9.9% in the Africa, Middle East, and Eastern Europe region, driven by Nigeria and South Africa.  Sales volumes fell 10% in Europe, where many countries remain under strict lockdown measures to combat a third wave of Covid-19 infections… Net profit for the period was €168 million ($201.7 million), up from €94 million in the virus-hit first quarter of 2020 but down from €299 million in the same period in 2019.

Lesson #1: things are looking up even if things are not looking up where you are. Lesson #2: folk elsewhere may be deflecting the realities.

You want more interesting information about the place of alcohol in the response to Covid-19… at least in Europe? Most nations are down (like me) but some are up… well, one:

So has COVID-19 got us drinking more, or less, than before? Public health researchers are trying to find out — to see if the events of 2020 have helped the world to sober up, or if we’re all heading for the mother of all hangovers. They’re finding that age and outlook on life drive our response to lockdown. Younger drinkers seem happier to find other things to do, while their stressed-out parents are more likely to be seeking solace in the bottom of a glass. And, surprise, surprise, it looks like we British have reacted to COVID-19 by drinking the most.

Beer as deflection?  Cultural standby? Beer as identify. Contract brewing as an attack on national pride has struck in Finland:

“The brand is owned by Finns, and the product development, warehousing, administration, marketing and sales all take place in Finland, and our office is located in Kontula. Production alone occurs at the factory in Tartu, where beer has been skillfully made since the 19th century,” Matti Pesonen from Kontula Brewery said. The Finnish Food Workers’ Union called on consumers to opt for beer produced in Finnish breweries instead for the purpose of preserving local jobs.

I like that. It’s good and mercantile. I saw this observation from Jeff this week and I have to agree… but how different is it from the the Finns above?

Craft beer used to lean heavily into corporate ethics. This was partly a rebuke to big breweries, laser-focused on the bottom line, and also slightly self-serving (look at how green we are!), but in the main it represented an authentic commitment to community. Lately, not so much. Many breweries still try to lead ethical lives, but they aren’t showy about it, and with some notable exceptions the trend overall has tailed off.

What’s left? Identity? Is that what they brew the beer for?  This question leads directly to a bit of a continuing discussion about England’s Cloudwater selling Scotland’s BrewDog brewed beers structured on worthy collaborations in the Tesco supermarket chain which led to an number of comments. When I find something interesting in GBH, I am careful to start at the end as they do tend to flail and one needs to see the pre-determined point the author was making. It was unfortunate to see their classic but utterly damp conclusion being applied again in this case:

What the long-term impact of one of the U.K.’s most influential breweries going into a national retailer will be remains up for debate.

Yawn-a-rama. Jordan and Robin took a harder line in their weekly podcast which, it being a podcast, I can’t draw a quotation from except to point out that Jordan used the word “crab bucketing” and both spoke of the point of brewing to be primarily to sell beer so that any sales of this sort are certainly good sales to be welcomed.  They also use the word “we” to describe the brewing trade… which I find odd. But GBH doesn’t which I find way weirder given its use of observations like “[t]hat experience is shocking to hear” and the constant self-citation. A shame given they also get money quotes like this one which is effectively the buried lede:

“I must say I do find it distasteful that it’s Tesco,” says Hayward. “Many pub goers will find a trip to their local now a trip to a Tesco Express store.”

But more to the point, I would also point out that k-os provided us with “Crabbuckit” in 2009 which perhaps really is the point that needs to be understood. He also has provided us with the song of summer 2021.*

Somewhat relatedly, Mudgie has posted an interesting set of thoughts about the problem with the UK’s beer drinking cultures and those making fun of the beer drinking cultures:

Much criticism of craft brewers revolves around them supposedly being just in it for the money and not practising what they preach. The same charge is often levelled at climate campaigners. But, in both cases, surely the sense of unshakeable moral certainty is equally worthy of satire. Within craft beer there are strong elements of wanting to change the world and stick it to the man, and self-congratulatory mantras such as “beer people are good people” which are frankly inviting ridicule. If it was just a case of a bunch of geeks who liked weird beers but kept themselves to themselves nobody would be bothered. You can’t really satirise bellringers or metal detectorists.

Hmm… and Prince Phillip was laid to rest this week. A beer man apparently. Who liked his beer from the bottle. But also from the glass in a pinch. His preference was documented in 1976:

I served Prince Phillip a beer years ago when I worked at the Westin (Hotel Nova Scotia). He pushed the glass away and draink from the bottle. Had a Keith’s.

He looked at me once on that same tour. Then he looked away.

We also lost someone central to my understanding of brewing history tis week, Ian Hornsey. Ian wrote A History of Beer and Brewing which I reviewed in 2006 as well as Alcohol and its Role in the Evolution of Human Society which I discussed in 2013. His passing has not been marked, with even his old brewery Nethergate not noting it in social media or on their website. If you see an obit, please forward it along.

That is it for this week. The jab hangover has passed and it’s been snowing on my veggies. Meantime, check out the weekly updates from Boak and Bailey mostly every Saturday, plus more with the weekly Beer Ladies Podcast, at the weekly OCBG Podcast on Tuesday (who marked their 100th episode with gratitude for all) and sometimes on a Friday posts at The Fizz as well. There is more from the DaftAboutCraft podcast, too. And the Beervana podcast. And sign up for Katie’s weekly newsletter, The Gulp, too. Plus the venerable Full Pint podcast. And Fermentation Radio with Emma Inch. There’s the AfroBeerChick podcast as well! And also look at Brewsround and Cabin Fever. And Ben has his own podcast, Beer and Badword – when he isn’t in hiatus as at the mo, more like timeout for rudeness. And remember BeerEdge, too. Plus a newcomer located by B+B: The Moon Under Water.

*I have to declare a conflict as realizing k-os liked this tweet of mine was one of the happiest five seconds of my 2021.

Your Very Own Mid-April 2021 Beery News Notes For A Thursday

What a difference a week makes. My birthday is coming up. My 18th bloggaversary is coming up. My jab appointment is coming up. The radishes are well up.  Speaking of the 18th bloggaversary, I was thrilled to realize that quite early on I had witnessed and captured forever perhaps the first bit of beer blogging snark or at least shade back in 2003.  Nothing like being a part of history. Oddly, someone just offered me $300 for that original URL  “genx40.com” under which the beer blogging started. I can’t imagine what for.

Pubs are open in England for outdoor service and apparently everyone I follow is a vitamin D deficient dipsomaniac. Except Matt. He was anxious. And Boak and Bailey hovered.  Me, even after I get the jab it’s going to be a while before I am settled enough to race towards a crowd. Retired Martin, as always, provided a great photo essay of his experience, a portion of one of which is captured above. I love capturing of the moment, the hipster hat in shades next to the guy at the left taking a seat. Two years from now the set up will look like something from a sci-fi movie.

Speaking of things not affected by the pandemic, what is not to love about this chart provided by BA Bart indicating what is needed to be remembered if you hang your emotional well being on the peg of craft beer. It shows the percentage of actual craft (not baloney craft) sales as a percentage for the years 2019, 2020 and into 2021. The percentage is stable. You see it dips in the summer when normal people buy more normal beer. And rises when they slow down. Nice. Pundits can cease their concerns otherwise.

In the greatest city in the world, Montreal, people are falling in love with the local lager scene:

Richer says lagers “appeal to a lot of different people” — everyone from “Monsieur et madame Tout-le-monde,” who might normally be fans of Molson or Labatt, to beer geeks who are looking for something simple, but well-crafted, and with lots of variety. To be clear, this isn’t a trend created by the pandemic — just accelerated by it. Across Quebec, hopheads still rush out to the latest can releases at breweries like Messorem Bracitorium, Brasserie du Bas-Canada, and Sir John, which specialize in full-on, double-dry-hopped hazy IPAs. But even those breweries are making lagers.

Perry. One of my heroes in the drinks writing world is Jancis Robinson and this week she offered her website a space to let us know about a rare perry:

Flakey Bark is a marvel of a drink. Broad, bold, structural, it carries on its breath a muscular depth of pear skin, peach pit, earthy bacon rind and wet slate. Its tannins in youth are formidable – so much so that eating the fruit raw is said to skin the roof of your mouth. It is built for food-pairing, offers extraordinary versatility in that respect, and with age it unfurls into layers of riper, fleshier fruit. A treasure – a delicious one. And one bad storm could wipe it entirely from existence, because there are only six mature Flakey Bark trees left in the world.

Nutso. Absolutely nuts. Speaking of which: brewery gets grocery store deal,  brewery told off apparently by morons.

I set out a slightly different understanding of the agreement which binds Ontario’s In and Out Store, aka The Beer Store, compared to some skuttlebutt observations being made. Our own expert beer business reporter Josh Rubin knows more about the situation than anyone else and has set out the deets in The Toronto Star. Very unlikely (aka impossible) that the team leading the big brewers who own TBS into the 2015 Master Framework Agreement that gave us grocery store beer did not see the writing on the wall for the system’s long term prospects. The ten year deal gave them the time to transition.

Or maybe an agreement to terminate. The talks leading to 2015 weren’t exactly public but getting ten years to transition otherwise stranded capital assets into operational loss offsets is a pretty civilized way to wind up EP Taylor’s brilliant idea as it became obsolete… it ends up being free to the 3 owner/breweries’ own pockets and fairly organized as it gives them time to sell the properties applying the funds meaningfully. Not unlike how the Federal gov’t has done it since Chretien. Securing the pension plan will be the big question.

That last point is key. The question of the land and buildings in the inventory of assets is not an issue. Otherwise useless assets offset operational losses. That’s part of the solution. That’s having a spot to put down the hot pan from the oven. The pension, however, is potentially problematic unless it is vested and capitalized. If so, all in all it was a brilliant plan.

Looks like Flying Dog,* the sort of brewery folk thought much about before the second Obama administration, has lifted the IP from BeerKulture, the diversity collabs they were working with:

Hi, @FlyingDog! Did you folks really have a meeting with @beerkulture to work on a collab, walk away from it, and then release Kulture King? That’s disgraceful, dilutes @beerkulture’s brand, and undermines the work they do to make beer better.

Two odd last things. Folks for over a decade have suggested that there is an issue with the reality of the Great White Male narrative in craft beer. Good reason. It’s a false construct. This is not news. Why did you think it was? Also, the idea that WBB invented criticism of craft beer?  Maybe if you were nine years old in 2014. Please. A very fine voice but pretty much common until folk stopped caring much about craft beer in 2015. Grow up. Buy my book. Please.

I really still can’t tell you anything about Project X but it is exciting and charming and… interesting. More laters. Meantime, check out the weekly updates from Boak and Bailey mostly every Saturday, plus more with the weekly Beer Ladies Podcast, at the weekly OCBG Podcast on Tuesday (who marked their 100th episode with gratitude for all) and sometimes on a Friday posts at The Fizz as well.  There is more from the DaftAboutCraft  podcast, too. And the Beervana podcast. And sign up for Katie’s weekly newsletter, The Gulp, too. Plus the venerable Full Pint podcast. And Fermentation Radio with Emma Inch. There’s the AfroBeerChick  podcast as well! And also look at Brewsround and Cabin Fever. And Ben has his own podcast, Beer and Badword – when he isn’t in hiatus as at the mo, more like timeout for rudeness. And remember BeerEdge, too. Plus a newcomer located by B+B: The Moon Under Water.

*A proud sponsor of many of A Good Beer Blog’s Christmas Photo Contests of 2005 to 2016… or so…

The April Fools Day Edition Of Your Beery News Notes

Here we are – April. The month of the showers that bring all the flowers. A snow storm is passing through this morning here at the east end of Lake Ontario. Such is life. Work is heavy, the third wave is heavy… and these packs of cookies and chips are making me heavy… heavier. Fine. We’re locking it all back down. I need my jab. Really. Soon please. But remember – it could be worse…

Speaking of the weather… Mexico is considering taking steps about the water that is moving north from arid lands through the porous US border in the form of beer:

Mexican President Andrés Manuel López Obrador is railing against the production of beer and milk in areas where there isn’t enough water. López Obrador cancelled plans for a huge brewery on Mexico’s northern border last year, and on Sunday he questioned the whole idea of producing beer for export. “How can we have beer breweries in the north? How can we produce beer for export? What are we exporting? Water. We don’t have water in the north,” López Obrador said.

This is not a small matter, as Forbes has reported:

Beer used to come from a variety of countries. In 2020, Mexico accounted for a record 72.27% of all U.S. beer imports during a record year for all beer imports, which totaled $5.75 billion. It marked the ninth consecutive year for record U.S. beer imports and the 12th consecutive year that Mexico increased market share. Most of that beer comes a massive brewing operation outside Piedras Negras, Mexico, across the Rio Grande from Eagle Pass, Texas, which is responsible for 56% of all U.S. beer imports.

The owner of that brewery? Anheuser-Busch InBev. Economic imperialism. Sweet. Somewhat similarly, The Full Pint has somewhat bravely posted, in 2011-esque style, the list of the top 50 US craft breweries but much of the top ten is made up of odd assemblages of investment vehicles of one sort or another. Gambrinus? CANarchy? Artisanal Brewing Ventures? It’s bad enough that Yuengling and Boston Beer are in there. Who are these people… err… these mega corps? So confusing.

Somewhat economic and culturally imperially speaking, a Chinese firm has found a way to brew in Pakistan to serve the Chinese economic actors in their new work zone:

“The company formally started its beer production last week, which product will be supplied to Chinese nationals working at various projects launched in different areas of Pakistan under the China-Pakistan Economic Corridor and mines and mineral projects in Balochistan,” Mohammad Zaman Khan, director general, Excise and Taxation South, told Dawn. He confirmed a licence had been issued to the Chinese company in 2018 as it had submitted an application to the authorities concerned in 2017, pleading that the beer and liquor brand which the company produces in China is not available in Pakistan.

Almost as confusingly dramatic… Q: could a hotdog be a sausage IPA? A: apparently anything is possible these days if the logic leading to the “farmhouse IPA” is to be trusted:

The one thing we know for certain, without even a hint of ambiguity, is that the word “saison” does not attract drinkers. A few breweries and a few beers have achieved success, but it’s despite, not because of the word. Justin regularly modifies his “saison” with equally dangerous adjectives like “Brett” or “table.”—other words that scare off drinkers. It’s too bad because I am convinced beers like Ashfall and Bumper Crop and Slow Motion have broad appeal. The word IPA no longer has much connection to style. And if “saison” reads like a warning to drinkers, IPA is a reassurance, a way of saying, “You’ll like this beer.”

Reflecting a more certain time, Ron told the story of a party for the coronation of Edward VII in 1902:

…the hero of the day was enthusiastically drunk. As twilght came on the grounds were beautifully illuminated with fairy lights and lanterns, and at midnight the proceedings terminated by a display of fireworks…

Ron was less enthused, saying Ed7 was “remembered for being a debauched glutton, who ate, drank and smoked himself to an early grave.” I hope he is more charitable in his plans for the next coronation party. What plans do I have? Jings. No idea. Better call Ron and ask. Has anyone laid away a few dozen hogsheads of strong ale?

The price of beer is being lowered in India to cope with Covid.

One of my favourite memories of living in Poland 30 years ago was the hardly operational trains – and especially the food and bar cars:

…the company’s name has in Polish become all but synonymous with its dining cars, serving up a taste of Poland – everything from hearty pierogi to piping hot żurek fermented-rye soup – in sleek and comfortable surroundings. Wars dining cars have fostered countless anecdotes, inspired songs, and generated a large following among contemporary train buffs. And recently, those restaurant cars have been even more of a welcome sight, as they have become the only sit-down restaurants in Poland allowed to remain open amid coronavirus restrictions.

Go Covid! Covid loves trains!! In further news of the pandemic present, Ed has provided a summary of how his British brewing workplace has coped with the situation – and explains its very interesting business model:

… brewing through the plague year. As an essential worker I’ve been slaving away whilst many have been at home all day playing with themselves and saying how it’s affecting their mental health. Maybe the Victorian moralists were right after all? I work at a site which contains four independently owned breweries (brewhouses and fermentation vessels), of which the main brewery does the processing (stabilisation and filtration) and packaging (cask, keg and bottle) for all four, and provides staffing for three.

Reversedly equipment-wise, the UK’s Fullers PubCo is now two years into life without its own brewery but things there are looking up:

Simon Emeny, Fuller’s chief executive, said the company had entered the pandemic in strong shape financially, partly because of the January 2019 sale of its brewery, which makes London Pride ale, to Japan’s Asahi after 174 years in the business. However, the pandemic cash burn meant the company needed money to train staff and take advantage of an expected sales surge once pubs reopen, he said.

Finally, Evan has discussed the use, misuse and uselessness of “craft” in the language of drinks as spoken around the world:

In other languages, saying “craft beer” can be close to impossible, at this point being “too new” a phrase to have a local equivalent. Apiwe Nxusani-Mawela, a brewer and consultant at Brewsters Craft in South Africa, says that she wouldn’t even know how to express the idea of a craft beverage in a language like Xhosa or Zulu. “The concept is not new — Africans have been hand-crafting various items for years,” she says. “The traditional beers here have different names, but they all mean beer. Like one is called ‘utywala besintu,’ because ‘utywala’ is beer and ‘besintu’ means for traditional people or natives. But craft beer? Craft beer is still a new term. I don’t think we have a word for it.”

There. Easter weekend. Four days off heres abouts. Nice. Well, except for the whole Christ died on the cross for your sins thing. Best be good. One thing that is good and charming and interesting is Project X. I can’t tell you anything about Project X but it is exciting and charming and… interesting. More when I can tell you. Meantime, check out the weekly updates from Boak and Bailey mostly every Saturday, plus more with the weekly Beer Ladies Podcast, at the weekly OCBG Podcast on Tuesday and sometimes on a Friday posts at The Fizz as well.  There is more from the DaftAboutCraft  podcast, too. And the Beervana podcast. And sign up for Katie’s weekly newsletter, The Gulp, too. Plus the venerable Full Pint podcast. And Fermentation Radio with Emma Inch. There’s the AfroBeerChick  podcast as well! And also look at Brewsround and Cabin Fever. And Ben has his own podcast, Beer and Badword – when he isn’t in hiatus as at the mo, more like timeout for rudeness. And remember BeerEdge, too. Plus a newcomer located by B+B: The Moon Under Water.

 

 

 

 

 

The Day After St. Paddy’s Day Beery News Notes

There, at least that’s over. That’s him there to the right, apparently ordering two. You know, this may have been the St. Patrick’s Day that I’ve always wanted. Quiet. By force of law. Even last year, during the first week of something being quite wrong, there were college idiots half smashed on a Tuesday loitering around the downtown square, wearing green things made of plastic. Amateurs. Appropriating plastic coated amateurs. In 2017, I asked why craft beer hated the day. I don’t think that is the same now but it’s mainly because craft beer has ceased to exist in the same sense four years on. Not much taking a unified stand against anything these days. Not much of a soap box to stand on anymore so much as being an object of the inquiries.

Breaking: craft beer loves generic globalist multi-internationalism.

In days of yore brewing news, Martyn has undertaken the work I’ve been begging him to undertake for at least a decade: exploring the 1898-1899 Canadian Inspectorate of Foods and Drugs study on stouts and porters:

…the average strength of the Canadian porters was 5.73 per cent abv, nearly 20 per cent less than the average stout strength. The two beers had almost identical average apparent attenuation, at 81.4 per cent for the porters, and 81.5 per cent for the stouts. Other analyses show big differences, however. The average percentage of maltose in the finished beer was 0.594 per cent for the porters, and 0.747 per cent for the stouts. The average percentage of solids in the finished beers was 4.99 per cent for porters and 5.6 per cent for the stouts…

Whammo! Kablammo!! Now you can all shut your pie holes about it and face facts.  “What about McDonagh & Shea porter out of  Winnipeg, Manitoba brewed to 8.8 per cent abv?” you say? Shut up. Get out.

Speaking of relatively recent history, sad news of a pub closing trade in Burton England was tweet-paired with this fabulous image of a 1962 price list for brewers and pub chain operators, Mitchells and Butlers. A great opportunity to identify grannie’s top drinks as well as the relative price of things. Fact: Dubonnet is not vermouth.

And in even more recent recent history, this picture of Eugene Levy and John Candy as the Shmenge Brothers of SCTV fame in the 1984 Kitchener Octoberfest parade posted this week by the University of Waterloo Library is as cheery as it gets. Careful fans will recall how pivotal the same parade is in the plot of the 1983 film Strange Brew, staring fellow SCTV alumni Dave Thomas and Rick Moranis. That’s an actual production vehicle, by the way – a Messerschmitt Kabinenroller.

Thing you couldn’t do in 2019. Going back into past restaurant reviews and finding evidence of unidentified covid-19 symptoms being the unwitting basis for complaint.

Not quiet sure what to make of this supply chain news out of Australia, whether it means Asahi are switching their malt purchases to be more local or just that it is now going to be tracked as local:

The new supply chain means that local barley will be used to brew Australian beers like Victoria Bitter and Carlton Draught for the first time in decades. Asahi, which developed the new direct sourcing program after it purchased Carlton & United last year, will now buy more than 70,000 tonnes of malted barley direct from farmers in Victoria and southern NSW to be used at its Yatala and Abbotsford breweries. Growers in northern NSW are expected to join the scheme before this year’s harvest while the first beers brewed under the program will be rolled out in April.

This one program appears to include 7.6% of Australian malt production so what ever it is it is significant.

Not unrelatedly, though he will fully disagree and it pains me when he does, Stan captured one of the best examples of craft beer nonsense that I’ve ever seen:

Breweries have terroir as well. But instead of revolving around a patch of land, ours are centered on a group of people. We operate our business on a human scale and with a human face. 

Remember when people used to say stuff like that? Many copyright law suits later and the firings of all the women in the craft beer bar and… and… and… Speaking of which in a sort of contrapuntal way, diversity in brewing and the craft beer trade continues to be a big discussion circling about the topics of both inclusion and actual identify as this article in Foodism Toronto discusses:

Sandhu has a beer on his menu dedicated to his grandfather, Chanan, which includes Indian coriander as one of its ingredients. “I actually do see a high percentage of Indian customers ordering the beer that’s named after my grandfather,” Sandhu says. “I think these populations feel safe and they feel comfortable at our brewery. We don’t just see them coming in just once, but they become regulars.”

Unlike the samey “I miss the pub” teary tales or the quite uncomfortable “beer has been the only thing that gives my life meaning” confessionals, Mr. G. Oliver has looked to the future and sees hope as well as these three interesting trends:

What use is a “share bottle” you can’t share? It’ll be interesting to see if the stemming of the pandemic brings the 750 back at all. I think people are doubling down on case sales; we haven’t wanted to make any more trips to retail than necessary. People are also buying fewer expensive specialty beers.  I also think that the pandemic is helping fuel the rise of the non-alcoholic category. A lot of people are now home for lunch every day. What are you going to drink with your sandwich for lunch? NA beers can provide a perfect answer, and there’s nobody watching you “drink a beer” at lunch in your kitchen. NA is getting normalized faster than it would have otherwise.

By the way… does anyone know how you are supposed to find a story on GBH? What a hot mess of a front page.

Stonch, well known pub lad and operator of Britain’s longest-running beer blog, praised CAMRA on its 50th anniversary this week for, yes, achieving its goals:

Yes, there’s been a growth in excellent keg, and that has perhaps pushed cask ale out of the limelight in many beer-focused bars. Yes, the immediate after-effects of the pandemic will produce challenging conditions for cask-centric brewers. CAMRA has plenty to be keeping busy with, and without doubt can remain relevant and vital if it so chooses. Speaking as a publican, I can say with confidence that there is no way that a significant part of today’s pub-going public would be happy to visit a pub that didn’t offer reasonably well-kept cask conditioned ale. That commercial reality will preserve this particular part of Britain’s heritage for years to come.

And from the other side of the bar as well as knees under the organizational table, the Tand praised CAMRA on its 50th anniversary this week for, yes, achieving its goals:

I’m a relative newcomer, my tenure in the Campaign being a mere 40 years, but happily my anniversary as a member coincides, more or less, with the fiftieth year of our venerable organisation.  Like many, I’m looking forward to Laura Hadland’s book outlining CAMRA’s rich history and to reading the tales of those who have made this epic campaigning journey, both with and before me. Of course, while the organisation is to be congratulated, it is also an excuse for members to raise a glass to themselves, whether they are grey in beard and sandal or – like some of us – still youthful and inspired. Young or old, we are all the Campaign for Real Ale, and we can justifiably bask in our own reflected glory, even if just for a day.

For an alternative view, consider the Viz magazine perspective.

Best actual brewing thing I have seen this week? This:

OH MY GOSH – sooo excited!! Today’s the day we’re brewing our 1st 2021 Vintage Ale @FullersBrewery and I got the honour of mashing it in! Thanks @FullersGuy!

Me, I’d make my own now… but they employed a cunning strategy and reversed the image so we will never know how the beer was made. One thing is for sure. There aren’t any ambering hops in there.

There. Saturday is spring. Yes, the second spring of a pandemic but still spring. So while you turn the soil and plant the seed, check out the weekly updates from Boak and Bailey mostly every Saturday, plus more with the weekly Beer Ladies Podcast, at the weekly OCBG Podcast on Tuesday and sometimes on a Friday posts at The Fizz as well.  There is more from the DaftAboutCraft  podcast, too. And the Beervana podcast. And sign up for Katie’s weekly newsletter, The Gulp, too. Plus the venerable Full Pint podcast. And Fermentation Radio with Emma Inch. There’s the AfroBeerChick  podcast as well! And also look at Brewsround and Cabin Fever. And Ben has his own podcast, Beer and Badword – when he isn’t in hiatus as at the mo, more like timeout for rudeness. And remember BeerEdge, too.

These Are The Thursday Beery News Notes For The Week Of Melting

The week of melting is a great week. It occurs usually two weeks before the week of everything smells like dog poop. The week in between is called the week of maybe it won’t happen this year. One lad was thinking how nice it would be if something didn’t happen, as illustrated to the right. Max shared the image and voted it top entry for the Hogmanay Xmas Yuletide Kwanza Photo Contest 2021. It is a study of humankind’s folly… or true role of beer… or something… whatever it is we are advised by someone presented that balance was in fact recovered.

Much doings to report upon this week. First, Stan wrote about something I have never had the slightest interest in – beer recommend / review / rate apps. If you are spending any time at all on them, you need a goldfish in your life.  Something real. But Stan persists, as they say. And he delved a bit into the phenomenon to point out one app which actually had detail:

Next Glass 1.0, circa 2015, was something different. It was one of several drink recommendation apps that came and went about that time. Some got tagged as the “Pandora for beer.” For First Glass, that made sense because it took a scientific approach similar to Pandora when collecting data… [F]eature-based systems begin by measuring specific attributes of songs (or beers). Pandora created the Music Genome Project and employs musicians to catalog key elements of every song in its database. Next Glass mapped the chemical makeup of individual beers, forgoing any effort to quantify a beer based on its descriptive characteristics. 

All of which means there are graphs. Graphical displays of information. Why did it fail? Beer failed it: “…the company was never going to be able to collect mass spec information on the thousands of new beers released every week…” A.K.A. T.M.I.

Victim of Maths has tweeted an interest set of… graphs! Graphs on the effect of the pandemic on alcohol consumption patters in different nations. The form of graph itself is very helpful. But look how consumption goes up in the US while dropping in terms of the tavern trade. Who benefitted from that? White Claw? Local actual craft brewers delivering to home? Interesting stuff.

Much talk on alewives and witches again which I think is up there with the role of Sumerian goddess of beer, Ninkasi, in medieval Norse brewing. There seems to be a drive to switch one story of exclusivity with another an then make it universal rather than particular.  Dr. Christina Wade made this very good point in relation to this topics and one which is useful in any other historical studies which I present as a merged mega-tweet:

That is a really important avenue of research. And, in which case, we must get hyper-specific. Brewing in the Middle Ages could be a high-status, non-liminal, position for women. If we take the example of late medieval and early modern England, which is what these sorts of articles seem to be meaning, we can see that women who brewed were vilified. And men absolutely did accuse and lie about things to ruin women’s brewing businesses. We have primary sources for that in England. But as to whether this took the form of witch accusations the data is lacking. This may be because the populations who brewed and who were accused of witchcraft overlap. That is to say, single/widowed/poor women. That said, married women also brewed with great regularity. So it’s largely speculative.

This raises an interesting question. Why and should we participate in the continuation of myth telling? Even as myth correction. On the one hand it is organic and bolsters identity often in a healthy way. I myself am quite pleased to be generically connected to the faerie folk and advise all of you to watch your step accordingly. This, however, is quite distinct from the role I play from time to time of amateur historian – even when I get paid for that part of my research and writing. Nothing is as shockingly and clarifyingly accurate as a primary source. You can’t get around that sort of thing. You must face it. So how does one do both in an area of our collective culture as laden with fib and story telling as beer and brewing?

Never a happy event. A founder leaves a brewery.

Wee Beefy, one who has written of the horrors of the experimental craft alcopops that are too prevalent these days, has discovered a new love in an very unexpected form:

Last year or before, Maltgarden Browari came along. I had already tried a few of their excellent stouts, along with stumbling through opening their ridiculous wax capped can, and then bought a can of Tzatziki pastry sour with Pink Guava, Mango and cucumber… I drank the whole can in about ten minutes. It was ludicrously easy drinking – but also featured a distinctive but perhaps created tzatziki flavour along with the excellence of the pastry elements. It tasted very strongly of the cucumber and as I admit, the tzatziki I imagined but impressively the other flavours blended in so well together! I used it as a palate cleanser…

Me, I am physically revolted by that description but celebrate the freedom.

One weighs carefully whether one mentions BrewDog anymore given they are (i) now an international brewery with few links to micro or craft and (ii) they are adherents to a form of serial stupid that is beyond all reckoning – but… but… this one is up there with Sam Adam’s 2002 “Sex for Sam” promotion that led to charges, humiliation and (in a less than round about way than you might imagine) the Brewers Association as we know it. Trade Unionist Kmflett neatly summarized the seemingly sordid scene:

A post noted that Brewdog Indianapolis had sacked female and LBTQ employees on International Women’s Day apparently looking for a change in culture at the bar, possibly to a white male workforce. The CEO of Brewdog USA tweeted that of course Brewdog don’t discriminate while the London based head of Brewdog bars globally tweeted that he was investigating. On the one hand he was aware of an issue on the Indianapolis bar. On the other hand people are not sacked on the basis of gender or sexuality and if anyone had done that they’d be off too.

Lordy. There’s the statement from those let go. To date, no response from Mr. Jim Watt via Twitter except to point out how carbon neutral they are trying to be in addition, apparently, to be anti-discrimination neutral. It’s sad. I just checked my emails and there I was care of Stonch giving James himself advice in exchanges for photo contest prizes. It was all about how to run a blog about his wee brewery… and there it is now…  crushing hopes and dreams.

Finally, you will note every week I list below any number of podcasts related to good beer. This week I tweeted a question which got mucho response:

Honestly, how much time a week do you have for listening to beer podcasts? 27 minutes? Three and a half hours? I think of this when I encounter the 68th new podcast this year that’s over an hour long, not much edited and 7-11% filled with umms, errs and insider giggling.

I mean it quite seriously as a question about the medium. How many could you keep up with. I myself uses the FF technique in which I take a 35 minute podcast and reduce it to 5 by clicking and hunting for the actual bit of most interest to me. For all the “beer editors” out there who seem to be getting chump change for taking away the new writers voice in exchange for the dull tried and true, it would be good if there was a similar thing for podcasts, a central hub of some sort, a single global beer podcast editorial committee who could take these rambles and turn them into an actual magazine of the air of some sort. Some folk who could say “no” and who could also say “yes, this!” Listeners await.

Soon it will be spring. That makes for happy. For more happy, check out the weekly updates from Boak and Bailey mostly every Saturday, plus more with the weekly Beer Ladies Podcast, at the weekly OCBG Podcast on Tuesday and sometimes on a Friday posts at The Fizz as well.  There is more from the DaftAboutCraft  podcast, too. And the Beervana podcast. And sign up for Katie’s weekly newsletter, The Gulp, too. Plus the venerable Full Pint podcast. And Fermentation Radio with Emma Inch. There’s the AfroBeerChick  podcast as well! And also look at Brewsround and Cabin Fever. And Ben has his own podcast, Beer and Badword – when he isn’t in hiatus as at the mo, more like timeout for rudeness. And remember BeerEdge, too.

The “Buh Bye February” Edition Of Beery News Notes

Oh, to be in England now that April’s (almost) there…

Well, that was great. February, the last month in the pandemic year around these parts. March is the bestest of the months anyway so I am just moving on, planning on getting some seeds in the ground within the next few weeks. The hard frozen ground. Not like in Ypres where Stonch waits upon the law to let his garden, above, grow.

First, an interesting comment from David Frum on the duration of the shock of the new:

It’s like when distilled alcohol arrived in Europe after 1400. Human beings had long experience of wine and beer. But distilled liquor spread carnage through unprepared societies. Took a long time to learn to cope with it. Broadcast media => social media an almost equal shock

That works. Speaking of culture shock, I can’t say I agree with the idea that the folk in their early twenties are a wave of future beer drinkers just waiting to hit the beer stores for the next forty or fifty years but Matt makes an argument:

What I’m interested in flipping here is the narrative that runs through all of these stories: that under 25’s are not interested in drinking alcohol. That craft beer, specifically, is not cool to them. While the youngest bracket within the above data might be drinking less, I believe they are almost certainly drinking better. Case in point: In putting out a tweet asking for 18-24 year olds to reach out to me about their beer preferences, my inbox was overwhelmed with a flood of positivity. 

That right there? The choir. My kindly response – avuncular even – was that my kids and their pals have little or no interest being tediously focused on building a healthy and productive future. Does it matter if they like what i like?

UK Covid Pubwatch 2021 continues. Are you a little more worried each month about the role the pub and lashings of booze have on British culture? Folk are fretting. On Thursday, Emma McClarkin of the British Beer & Pub Association forewarned of Boris’s newest announcement with this:

Outdoor opening -as we told Gov- not viable option. More support will be needed to survive prolonged closure, but what we really need is to be opened fully inside & out as soon as possible.

Stonch was more realistic and more humane:

Business owners in hospitality / leisure / retail (of which I am one) will understandably feel bitter disappointment about the glacial pace of re-opening about to be set out. However we need to be realistic and remember this is how most of the public want things to go.

This was cool. A 1989 record from Mass Observation. Typed. Might as well have been 1949.  Reminds me. I knew a guy called Bob in the mid-90s who went on about enjoying life, smoking and drinking. Died from smoking and drinking in the mid-90s. More to enjoying life than stubbing it out like a butt in an ashtray.

And Martyn added Curling, Newfoundland to my understanding. Now part of Corner Brook. I don’t actually think it’s the worst slogan ever. We’d do well to have a lot more “Alcohol: makes you an idiot” reminders. So, more like a public service announcement. Might’ve helped Bob.

An old link but an interesting one – Ottawa’s first tavern unearthed.

Here’s a lengthy post from Martyn which has little to do with beer but a lot to do with the state of understanding of beer:

Of course, having a “gut instinct” that something is or is not true, after our subconscious minds have reviewed the evidence and decided whether the arguments hold up, does not absolve us of the need to muster the evidence for others to review, because other people cannot interrogate our subconsciouses. The evidence for the two sides of the “porter name origins” argument is pretty easy to line up.

My first response was unkind as it the question was not the origins of the name of porter but the ethics of going on and writing about junkets rather than spreading one’s attention more equitably, well, facts and standards would not have such sway. But I am intrigued by the fact that “Daniel Defoe wrote in 1724 of porter being a working-class, alehouse drink” so I can overlook such things.

Elsewhere in taxonomy, Katie wrote extensively about small bready lumps in the UK.*

It’s a first date question. It’s something to debate over pints and a cheese and coleslaw bap. It’s an argument in the kebab shop at 1 a.m. It’s a reason to fall out with a favourite baker when they revise their packaging. It’s a clichéd social media meme and an easy engagement win. People queue up to die on the already heavily-bodied hill that is the true and rightful name of their favoured handheld breadstuff. We love to claim the naming rights of our daily bread. It’s personal. It’s tribal.

This article reminded me of when in 1991 as a ESL teacher in Kołobrzeg, Poland I invented a game of twenty questions for my adult evening class. They found posing oneself as an object to be asked questions was a very odd process. Apparently it was not something Stalin had mentioned might assist in expanding understanding. They also found it very odd when I proclaimed the correct answer: “jestem buka!” Or “I am a bun!”

And Stan waxed taxonomically when he picked up the “what was craft?” theme rather helpfully – in the sense that it is now a past tense discussion even if five years after the real endy times struck:

If we are going to “use 2020-’21 as a convenient place to divide the ‘craft era’ with whatever we’re about to inherit” who is in charge of coming up with a title for the next chapter?

Stan (for the double) also wrote of Kentucky Common, which I semi-secretly consider likely an echo of schenk.

And finally, over at the Beeb, the plight of the most remote pub on the mainland of Britain was discussed:

Locals have launched a bid to bring Britain’s remotest mainland pub into community ownership. The Old Forge in Inverie sits on the Knoydart Peninsula in Lochaber. The only way of reaching the village – and its pub – is by walking 18 miles (29km) or making a seven-mile (11km) sea crossing. The pub’s owner told residents in January of their intention to sell up, and following a consultation locals say they are keen to buy it.

Keeners. There. Soon it will be March. Feel free to dream of planting seeds. Peas and lettuce can take a frost. And while you are, for more good reading, check out the weekly updates from Boak and Bailey, back now mostly every Saturday, plus more at the OCBG Podcast on Tuesday (Jordan weights apology as opposed to apologia over beer cocktails this week!) and sometimes on a Friday posts at The Fizz as well.  We have a new entry from the DaftAboutCraft  podcast. And sign up for Katie’s weekly newsletter, The Gulp, too. Plus the venerable Full Pint podcast. And Fermentation Radio with Emma Inch. There’s the AfroBeerChick  podcast as well! And also look at Brewsround and Cabin Fever. And Ben has his own podcast, Beer and Badword (explaining the reason for his irregular 1970s-esque TV dramedy season finale. Bellissimo!!!) And remember BeerEdge, too.

*I have to admit the current trend in illustration – the slightly out of focus or cartoony drawing – let the story down. When reading about differentiations amongst various  sorts of brown lumps of dough it is good to not be presented with a diagram of brown lumps.

Your Thursday Beery News Notes For The February Blahs 2021

The blahs. I have never liked February all that much but in this year of the plague I’ve actually come to appreciate it. The the lengthening days compare well to what’s been out the window for the previous couple of months. So there. But there is a blah nonetheless. Not much vibrancy in the world of beer writing. That’s what I am talking about. It’s all a bit due to other themes both worthy and banal being layered over, sure, but even with that… there is blah.

Not as blah as that image up there of a pub lovingly taken and posted by ATJ. I love it because it is so horrible. It could be called The Blah Pub unless it was 1994 when it would be Pub Blah. The image of the scary lad drinking painted on the façade in the upper right is particularly horrible. Who thought that would help? Anyway, it reminds us all that ugly is not necessarily all about the ugly. Therefore… I start this week in an effort to disprove my own blahlological observations with a study of “blah /  not blah.”

Not blah? Perhaps this tweet, as it is at least taking a stance:

Beer should be like wine. Only named after the region or the hops used. Styles are just made up.

Except beer isn’t really regional and hops only define certain sorts of beer. So.. a bit blah but assertion saves it somewhat. And “style” sucks, we all know that now.

Elsewhere, Rob MacKay, Creative Director at Glasgow’s Drygate Brewing Co., created and shared what he calls Beer Care Instructions:

“…a handy set of standardised icons, which can be applied to beer in the same way that the global standards for laundry care are…”

I like this a lot and it is definitely not blah as it is both thoughtful and somewhat cheerily useless. Yet serves as an alternative construct to all the failures laying about our ankles. One that I see is missing is “tastes like beer and not a fruit salad that’s been left out in the sunlight.” Still, very not blah.

History. Not blah is the news out of Egypt that a 5,000 year old mass production brewing facility has been uncovered, as the BBC reports:

The brewery consisted of eight large areas, each 20m (65ft) long and each containing about 40 earthenware pots arranged in two rows, according to the secretary general of Egypt’s Supreme Council of Antiquities, Mostafa Waziry.

Seven years ago, I posted about a visit to the Royal Ontario Museum where I saw an original display showing brewing in Ancient Egypt. Perhaps this group of people represented one of these eight areas or even just a portion of it. Nope. Not that. A household brewery in Thebes. Never mind. Update: the site has been known for over a century. Q: if Hornsey knew that Egypt was fuelled by beer consumed throughout society, how is a 22,000 litre facility a surprise? At a max a gallon a day consumption, this facility supplies 6,000 people.

Revisiting that tiny part of my mind we discussed the other week, the bit that recalls that Anchor changed its branding, it’s interesting to see that that the brewery’s union is not happy and made it clear-ish on their Instagram account. And while “…many of us are not thrilled…” isn’t exactly a lyric from a Woody Guthrie song still makes the point. More not blah than blah. But overall, still a bit blah.

Further afield, Kenya is considering banning the quart, the preferred measure of youth and Cape Breton barroom brawls of the mid-1960s:

“We believe this is an outrageous, retrogressive proposal that has no place in our developing economy today and we are opposed to the proposals in the Bill,” Gordon Mutugi, ABAK chairman, said. The association argues the elimination of the option to sell alcohol packed in smaller packages would force those who cannot affordable quality alcoholic beverages sold in larger packaging to seek illicit and unhealthy alternatives. These include the purchase of alcohol in bulk and sharing it into smaller containers or consuming contraband alcohol from neighbouring countries.

Garth fears change. You know, that seems all a bit real. It’s been almost a year since me myself I saw actual real. Hmm… And I am not sure that I want to suggest Jeff shared a blah – but revisiting “craft” has been done by too many:

Craft brewing didn’t start becoming a real player for another decade—thirty years after its birth. And even then, it was making slow inroads into the fuller market. Only by the mid-teens had it achieved real substance, with 12% market share—though more important to an industry, it was earning more than one in five dollars of revenue.

Sure it’s just a label, a brand as much as Anchor’s only was… is… But, see, we are aware of these things but really the order is: (i) micro brewing (1980-2007ish), (ii) craft (2007-2015ish) and (iii) post-craft chaos (2015-now.) It is not analytically satisfying to backdate an era or delay its passing. Sure, I don’t really mind it as a unsubtle umbrella term, I suppose. But “craft” has been dead now coming on six years. Actual punk rock comes and goes in less time. It’s time to figure out what is going on now. What is it?

Relatedly, Toronto’s… err… Canada’s other national newspaper, the National Post also attempted to explain craft beer in the post craft chaos era including a description of the work of Lex Konnelly, a PhD candidate in the University of Toronto’s Department of Linguistics:

Beer has shifted from a working-class beverage to elite commodity, Konnelly explains in their paper recently published in the academic journal Language Communication. By speaking the language of so-called beer snobs, brutoglossia (“craft beer talk”) can perpetuate inequalities. Taste is far from arbitrary. It’s wrapped up in social status, which is in turn influenced by other categories such as gender and racial identity. Language is one of the ways people define the in-group and out-group.

Oh dear. What to make of it all? Comparing today’s clever lowest common denominator alcopops to an “elite commodity”?*  Oh dear, oh dear. Then, similarly but far less so, “Flagship February” is hanging on but has shifted into a more general thing, another blog under a bushel like all those other blogs pushed out on the unsuspecting, feigning under any other name but blog. Yet… and yet… Stan sets aside any resulting potential for blah with his profile of a place called Halfway Crooks he posted on the FF blog:

Before Halfway Crooks Beer even opened their taproom in July 2019, they sold through their first run of hats with the words “LAGER LAGER LAGER LAGER” serving as a billboard. However, it would have been a mistake for beer drinkers walking around Atlanta proudly showing off this new hat to think this would be a lager-dominant brewery.

And, for the double,** Stan also gave us his thoughts on the effect of the US West Coast fires of 2020 on the hop crop:

…this is bad news for farmers affected because it reduces the value of some of their crop. But brewers should be aware that tainted hops could make their way into the supply chain. As one grower told me, “Here’s hoping we don’t see a rush of rauchbier’s coming into the market.” Unlike many people, I like rauchbiers, but I’m not looking forward to being surprised by a juicy IPA that tastes like licking an ash tray. (“Licking an ashtray” being a phrase used to describe wines made with smoke-tainted grapes.)

Blah beer but not a blah story. Not at all. And for maximum not-blah we have a post from Rye’s own pubman in hiding, Stonch sharing his fabulous style:

I drank a can of strong-as-fuck beer a couple of weeks ago, tweeted about it, and promised to review it here. One person has since asked me why I didn’t. In the face of such overwhelming demand, I must deliver. I can’t be bothered to match the pithy and succinct style I’d developed when this semi-dormant website was in its pomp, so you’ll have to plough through some verbose bullshit.

Finally – and as if just to prove they are not merely Egyptologists- the BBC tells us the latest calamitous news of the UK pub trade according to the British Beer and Pub Association (BBPA):

The BBPA said trading restrictions and lockdowns knocked sales by 56% – worth £7.8bn – last year. In the first lockdown in the second quarter of the year, beer sales plummeted by 96%, it said. Even during the summer, which saw the Eat Out to Help Out scheme and a temporary VAT cut on food and soft drinks, pub beer sales fell 27%.

Wow. Not blah. Yikes. Except things were locked. So it might be more odd that it was not 100%.  Who was that 4%. We all now pray to Dr. Fauci and the gods of global distribution systems. Eleven months and in we know its closer to the end than the beginning. We know.

Do it! And while you are, for more good reading, check out the weekly updates from Boak and Bailey, back now mostly every Saturday, plus more at the OCBG Podcast on Tuesday (Jordan flips out over beer cocktails this week!) and sometimes on a Friday posts at The Fizz as well.  We have a new entry from the DaftAboutCraft  podcast. And sign up for Katie’s weekly newsletter, The Gulp, too. Plus the venerable Full Pint podcast. And Fermentation Radio with Emma Inch. There’s the AfroBeerChick  podcast as well! And also look at Brewsround and Cabin Fever. And Ben has his own podcast, Beer and Badword (featuring another one of his irregular 1970s-esque TV dramedy season finale. Finaleissimmo!!!) And remember BeerEdge, too.

*The elite are actually drinking pre-mixed Clamato out of cans.
**Say “pour le double!!” like you are Charles de Gaulle speaking to Quebec in the 1960s!

 

A False Thaw In February And Your Thursday Beery News Notes

Fine. January is done and more jabs are getting jabbed out and about on this planet. A better situation than at any time in the last year. That’s good. Just weeks to go until spring. Like you, with these few warmer days I am planning the veggie garden and have my row covers ready to go. To help with those considerations, I have a new beer coming this week. Beer is like buying from eBay these days. I get an email saying I might want to consider this new beer from Matron. And I do. And I buy it along with something called Bobo, too. I live the Bo and Bo. It will all be on the front step Friday. So exciting. I shall watch like a child watching the stockings hanging by the fireplace on Christmas Eve.

First up this week, Black History Month has begin with a celebration of Theodore Mack, owner along with “a group of investors under the United Black Enterprises banner” who bought People’s brewery in 1970 and then only hired black employees. Fight the power. More here, here and here. And speaking of the calendar, more backlash against those in brewing trade PR who’ve been attacking folk opting out of the dipsomania-laced crowdsourcing so that the brewers who fund that PR have enough money in the kitty:

I’d also like it noted how unsupportive and honestly sometimes just straight-up gross some people are about others’ sobriety. Placing blame if businesses fail, mocking Dry January. It’s hard as fuck to not drink and you people suck.

Unconnectedly, ATJ posted a image from a 1922 book which again supports my long held understanding that no Belgian in their right mind drank unsweetened lambic before the unknowing but self-flagellating English language beer writer tours began in the 1970s. Likely something of a local lads’ gag, no doubt, watching them suck back the vinegar, then outdoing each other to heap praise.

Speaking of mid-20th century stuff but too late for the presses last week was Martyn’s take on the new labels on the beers from the relatively venerable US brewer, Anchor:

The design of the “classic” Steam Beer label is a crowded mess, the name of the beer only the second most prominent part of the label, at best, with some kind of odd parchment effect in the background making it look as if the colours failed to fix properly on the printing plates. The Porter label is better, being simpler and more direct, but still with distracting clusters of barley and hops that detract from the impact.

Fibby fake heritage, as Martyn points out, is a bit of a bore. I don’t care greatly either way as branding is one of the least interesting areas of the good beer world.

One other late excellent word was that of Kate B. on the scandal at Boulevard which, yes, includes the GBH standard cut and paste from the work of others but a more  daring, hardnosed and personal conclusion than that website is usually known for:

As a reporter, I struggle with my duty to ask questions of survivors. It’s a journalistic necessity, but it runs the risk of retraumatizing a person. My need to verify facts is counter to survivors’ need to be believed, to have their abuse validated. Even asking them to repeat the who, what, when, where of their experiences runs the risk of doing psychic damage. Trying to identify the why of it all—if there even is one—feels ethically impossible, and potentially harmful. That’s because people who have experienced abuse are often made to feel it’s their fault or that they are misreading the facts, often termed “gaslighting.” 

Speaking of which in a way, in another way I am not sure I can agree with this from my personal hero Dr.J.:

“A lot of people ask me, ‘How did it get this way in craft beer?’ Craft beer isn’t special—craft beer is a microcosm in the U.S. If there are inequities and disparities in craft beer, it’s because it’s serving as a mirror for the country at large,” Jackson-Beckham said. But she remains hopeful about the future of the industry.

My question relates to craft beer as microcosm. It isn’t. It is overly represented by a white, male, clubby tribe with access to money and wading in alcohol. Sort of like the Masons in plaid shirts.  While the statement above was made well before the Boulevard scandal broke, it is clear that many knew much for yoinks but turned a blind eye, according to impressively investigative work by the actual professional journalists of The Kansas City Star:

Boulevard employees recalled widely-known stories of harassment, particularly from a few high-ranking employees. Even when the women they victimized reported them, they remained in power. Even McDonald, who came back last week to lead the company in its time of crisis, acknowledged hearing reports in the past but not acting on them… The founder, now 67, acknowledged serious failings. But he didn’t want to believe his brewery had a systemic cultural problem. And he views the accusations against Boulevard employees as “isolated issues.”

Right. One also can only assume that this situation was well known to some of the beer trade writers among us but was not worth the trouble to report upon.

In another area of the craft-not-craft industrial zone, we read:

…james watt taking domestic flights between London & Aberdeen and being irked by his international ones being cancelled in the middle of a pandemic, all while running a supposedly climate conscious business lol. can’t make this shit up…

Also over there, the Beer Nut linked us to a story on the potential for the party being over for Irish folk coming back from the UK:

The EU is considering stopping Irish holidaymakers loading up on cheaper alcohol and cigarettes when they travel to other countries – with new rules that would also affect trips to Northern Ireland. Ireland is one of the most expensive places in the EU to buy alcohol and cigarettes, due to high excise duties. In a public consultation launched yesterday, the EU suggested holidaymakers should pay excise duties at home rates rather than where they buy products.

I asked many questions and tried to compare to the US-Canadian border which sits at a very long 2-wood from my house, just over the horizon. Not sure I was fully successful in informing myself.

Brendan P. has pointed out, as illustrated to the left,  the latest dumb legal move by one of the least appealing of the legacy micros out there. Apparently they now own all the rights to “bastard” too. I’ll let Austin Powers know. It’s sad that whatever goodwill they had as a quality gas station retail shelf supplier has been trashed in the cause of their protection of a common word and the most utterly tired brandings in beer. Keystone. Sawstone. Didn’t even notice they sued something called Hollystone. FFS. Is there any constituency left rooting for Stone in these matters? Is there any way these court cases lead to growth or is it just part of a rear guard strategy after the disaster in Berlin? Like those who would diss Dry January, there is a whole sector of the brewing trade that seems to live in a disconnected delusion about what the customer base actually thinks.

And finally another paper-based beer mag disappears after a irregularly schedule life and less than a year after an industry veteran was brought in. A tough row to hoe. Viva blogs! Viva!!!

That’s it. Now, for good reading check out the weekly updates from Boak and Bailey, back now mostly every Saturday, plus more at the OCBG Podcast on Tuesday and sometimes on a Friday posts at The Fizz as well.  We have a new entry from the DaftAboutCraft podcast. And sign up for Katie’s weekly newsletter, The Gulp, too. Plus the venerable Full Pint podcast. And Fermentation Radio with Emma Inch. There’s the AfroBeerChick  podcast as well! And also look at Brewsround and Cabin Fever. And Ben has his own podcast, Beer and Badword.  And remember BeerEdge, too.

 

The Thursday Beery News Notes For A Somewhat Ugly Week In Beer

I almost took this week off. It’s been a very busy stretch at work. It’s good busy, mind you. Takes the mind off the pandemic, the near death experience suffered by American democracy and winter and… and… and… Other than that, I did see both the nearest and seventh farthest planets from the Sun last weekend. That was cool. And, see, I noticed the winter brown goldfinches at the feeder just starting to show their yellow feathers at their shoulders. Spring is coming. Oh, and I had a beer or some beer or something at some point. This is still a beer blog, right?

Hmm… what’s in the news? Horrible breweries apparently. First, the end times seem to have struck once again in the semi-beer fruity gak. You a betting reader? Seriously, when is it going to die off? The exploding gak. Jeff started it. And the we end up here. Really. Just look to the right at the warning one horrible brewery had to issue and consider how horrible the warning issued by the horrible brewery actually is. Actually, I know nothing about the horrible brewery except it is happy, first, putting out a horrible fruit gak beer and, then, a horrible warning about the horrible fruit gak beer. Hide the exploding can in your garbage, they say. Hide the exploding can in your garbage? That’s the advice? Did they check with the local solid waste dept? So they must be horrible. Right? Right. I hope they are not but they might well be. Watch your step. You, too.

If that was not enough,* Vinepair started the ball rolling with the story of another horrible idea, the $90 six pack. It’s a dumb idea which has nothing to do with the beer and everything to do with the $90 despite the spin:

After talking to Gislason, however, I don’t think he deserves derision for Hanabi Lager. Though he’s got grand ambitions, and a funny way of revealing them, his ego is in check. You will probably roll your eyes a few more times as you read this story, sure, but who knows? Gislason might very well be taking lager to a place it’s never been before. “The vast majority of beer consumed in the world is lager, albeit an ‘industrial-commodity’ version that’s relatively simple and homogeneous in flavor,” says Gislason. “Recognizing that high-quality lager brewing was underrepresented in the craft brewing world, that became our brewing R&D focus about 10 years ago.”

Sucker juice. A sad tale based on a false premise. Jeff perhaps was unnecessarily detailed in his criticism, giving the discussion a little too much oxygen. It’s not about disrespect as much as not giving a shit. These things arise from time to time and either die off or end up in the business acquisition they were actually initially set up to serve. Best response? This:

Fuck these guys, we do the same thing for $12 a four pack.

Speaking of horrible brewers, the big story of the week would be the situation at Boulevard Brewing, which was first described in a Reddit post:

I left Boulevard Brewing Company in March 2020 because of harassment I received because I was pregnant. My boss stood me and another female employee up in the lab, in front of another coworker, and demanded to know if we were pregnant. When we refused to answer, he told the other woman “the only way you could be pregnant is by your cat”, then continued to ask me. I reported this to HR, but it started a cycle of reporting his behavior to HR and then being punished (by him) for going to HR.

Nutzo. If denigrating and potentially illegal employment standards could be wrapped up in the word “nutzo”… which it might or might not. It’s sorta sweet – in no way that makes any sense on this planet – that the brewery issued a statement that says it was all fine… a joke maybe… but not real… look over here… shadow puppets… AND then, on Wednesday, they repented or at least reflected and started living in reality. THEN, late Wednesday, folk identifying as employees posted an alternate version of reality, of multiple executive firings. Wow. Need to keep an eye on this one.

So much for beer people are good people. Some are. Some aren’t. Speaking of which, beer people writing about other beer people is usually dull as dishwater… or worse, less interesting than exploding fruity gak or a $90 six pack or sexist piggy stuff. But in this case the bio bit on Chalonda White, aka Afro Beer Chick, is good. Very good. I should work one like that, too, but on me. If I was that good. But I am not as interesting. And not committed to important things like Chalonda is. I could learn a thing or two. Grow up a bit.

Enough!. Let’s look elsewhere. Brexit’s effect on the UK wine trade is petty shocking as described by one wine merchant:

I now hope, if the wind is blowing in the right direction, to start seeing stock from early February. My orders with producers were placed as far back as December. So from what was a 7-10 days turn around has become a 5-6 week turn around. Another of those Brexit dividends. 14/22…

Just last week, we discussed* the effects of Brexit on the UK import market. This seems to indicate it is going to be ugly.

Note: it’s never a good idea to use social media to self doom scroll after you get an article published. Blaming headline writers, the readers… anyone with a different view is a bit weird. If it isn’t explained in the story… is it a good story?

One of Canada’s beer blogs that likes to pretend it isn’t a blog has posted a good piece with four people involved in the beer trade talking about the pivot and the way forward:

At Matron we’ve learned to adapt to the rapidly changing market: we’ve leaned into online sales and home delivery. In fact, we predict that to make up for the shortfall in bar and restaurant sales, breweries will need to sell up to half of their beer online this winter to survive. On the flipside, you, the craft beer drinker, have gained incredible access to the majority of Ontario breweries, whether it be shopping directly from the brewery’s website, or supporting one of the many independent bottle shops that have sprung up.

I am rooting for them all. Matron is one of my near neighbours… in the Canadian sense, an hour’s drive away.

And Matt C wrote about Czech v. German in Ferment 52 and has found a number of solid witnesses to give testimony as to their preference. I approve of the following point most heartily:

But one bone I must pick is with those who replied to my poll by stating they don’t like Czech beer because of the diacetyl (an off flavour that makes your beer taste like butter.) And I understand Czech beers often have a rich, butterscotch flavour, but it’s not like the hot buttered popcorn character that makes you want to tip a pint of naff cask down the drain.  “People who say things like that are the type who talk without knowing what they’re talking about,” Evan says, bluntly. “But yeah, there is diacetyl in Czech beer sometimes. There’s diacetyl in German beer sometimes, too.”

The diacetyl police are amongst the most tedious of beer fans. As far as I am concerned it all comes from (i) nutritionalism*** and (ii) need-to-take-a-stand-ism and (iii) the unfortunate proliferation of off-flavour seminars rather than on-flavour seminars.

There. Unfortunately, more seriously nasty stuff going on than good. But some good and we have the eternal glow of the deep and abiding hope for more good. To continue your quest for actually good reading check out the weekly updates from Boak and Bailey, back now mostly every Saturday, plus more at the OCBG Podcast on Tuesday and sometimes on a Friday posts at The Fizz as well.  We have a new entry from the DaftAboutCraft podcast. And sign up for Katie’s weekly newsletter, The Gulp, too. Plus the venerable Full Pint podcast. And Fermentation Radio with Emma Inch. There’s the AfroBeerChick  podcast as well! And also look at Brewsround and Cabin Fever. And Ben has his own podcast, Beer and Badword.  And remember BeerEdge, too.

*Which is good for me because, in case you haven’t noticed I like to write a weekly post about all the things I read about so that you can read that in addition to all the things I read about.
**You did have a roundtable discussion by Zoom meeting afterwards, right?
***See Michael Pollen, yes, but see also a sort of fraidy-cat approach to things and the deference to the people who, utterly hypocritically, ended up giving you strawberry milkshake sour fruit candy beer crap. Have a Yorkshire bitter from an actual open square fermenter. Enjoy the slight buttery goodness.

As Summer Soon Turns To Autumn Take Comfort In These Beer News Notes For Thursday

Hmm. Nothing of, like, a common theme out there this past week, was there? There was some great apple pressing porn to watch, for sure. That stuff is great. And my near neighbours at MacKinnon have been bringing in their hops crop, as illustrated. Fabulous. But there’s also the pending end of summer and, with it, the end of the best chance pubs and brewers had to store a few nuts away for the coming cold.  Something for the stretch until Christmas. Old Mudgie painted a bleak picture of what was to come in the UK for pubs and brewers. And a beer shop shut in Oakland… its obit just above the one for the creepy knife store shutting. And a brewery in Kitchener, Ontario is now up for sale. Polk told me so. 2021 is going to be the year of cheap surplus brewing kit. Not a cheery theme.

But that’s in the future, not in the now. Let’s check in there… err.. here. This week, let’s start over at the ever popular History Corner. Come along. Robsterowski of “I Might Have a Glass of Beer” shared it thoughts about an anti-steam brewing tirade posted in the 23 March 1862 edition of Allgemeine Bayrische Hopfen-Zeitung and even provided a handy translation:

The steam-powered breweries increase constantly in number and it seems they shall quite soon squeeze out the other breweries, or force them into imitating them. As in so many other [trades], the machine seems to make manual labour almost redundant in the brewery. The question must be asked: which beer is preferable, that produced by steam or by hand? Experienced beer conners prefer the latter. 

This goes to the idea that steam beer began simply as a next step industrial brewed beer – but I do love the idea of “factory beer” as the great evil. Because it’s all factory beer, now… right? Interesting that values which were frowned upon in 1862 include steel, lightness and speed. It’s a bit late of a date, I would have thought, for such a broad fear of modernity. Speaking of a similar thing, Jeff tweeted about Belgian Biere de Cabaret from 1851 including this  contemporary comment:

“Has a very sweet and pleasant taste, creamy, and something honeyish that is highly sought after by aficionados.” An amber-golden color, unusual for the time. It has always intrigued me, not least because of the name.

Something? Factory beer is never “something” beer. Boom, it’s there. Always or never. That’s it. Plus I like aficionados… Knut talked about that term back in 2008 but had a better one… though I would not have expected the Spanish word to be in 1851 beer commentary from Belgium… but then again it was once called the Spanish Netherlands before it was the Austrian Netherlands. Is that it?

Now, I do like the idea of #SoberOctober (even though I would have just called it #SoberTober)… except… I have never associated October with wild eye binge drinking. No big holiday, no big bowl sports game. No woo. No hoo. Which I suppose means I don’t like it. Hmm. Except it might be building on a self-fulfilling wish. No crazy reason to overdo it. So no one did! Hey, nothing changes but victory proclaimed!!

This is even weirder than #TotesSobeTobe. It was in fact with a heavy heart that I read the post with this bit of odd triumphalism:

It’s important to remember that there was no useful IRI data in 2017 that told @SierraNevada that they should make Hazy Little Thing. It took instincts, guts, and maintaining a pulse on the industry’s long tail. Doing so gave them a one year head start on their competition.

Kinda mainly wrong, no? I say wrong based on this end of year 2017 blog post (ie a primary source contemporary with subject matter) that recorded reality at that moment:

You know, much is being written on the murk with many names. Kinderbier. London murk. NEIPA. Gak from the primary. Milkshake. It’s gotten so bad in fact that even Boston Beer is releasing one, a sure sign that a trend is past it. Some call it a game changer, never minding that any use of that term practically guarantees something isn’t.

I blame belief systems. Needing to associate yourself with things. Do you associate yourself with such things? I wouldn’t mention it except that it seems to be, you know, a thing.

Hop. Not a belief. Fact. Here’s some slightly disorganized hop news. As if Brophy was really also on the other line… In other hop news – Arkansas. Boom! Who knew?

Next up? Awards. Folk were talking about awards this week. Are they just for the needy? Canadian needy awards are the worst given how needy Canadians are. Are they really too much about the fee and other money aspects? Really? I can’t believe you thought that. For me, it’s never going to get to the point that nominations come from someone other than the candidate… which is my minimum standard for a competition being of any interest. But is it also problematic due to systemic bias?

Imagine what your work would look like if you weren’t gunning for someone to tell you you’re the best, that you’ve beat your peers out this year. If you’re not chasing this particular carrot, shaping your work (even unconsciously) toward what usually gets these accolades, what do you do? Who can you be? The world might be bullshit, but maybe we can be free from the false narratives and stale aesthetics perpetuated by awards, at the very least. 

Yikes! But, certainly, when the same group of individuals own the contest, select the judges, set the rules, act as judges, report on the event, receive a payment or two and then spend the rest of the year being palsy-walsy with the next slate of fee-paying candidates, well, it is all a bit too weird, isn’t it . Too small a circle to be taken seriously. Which might be a good point – why aren’t they just really for fun?! Which is what model railroading is all about! Sorry, not model railroading… craft beer… yes, that’s it.

Speaking of model railroaders, a couple of late breaking “old guy shakes hand at sky” stories came in Wednesday. First was the troglodyte at Stone* yammering about something revolving about himself. You can go read it on your own time. But second was that weird article by ATJ advocating for less information. In particular, hiding the truth about calories in beer. (Perhaps it’s the wine press bullies.) Now, this is especially odd as the information is readily available. That didn’t stop the one Chicken Little’s solo becoming a duet:

Since calorie counts are meaningless to 99.99999% of drinkers, it’s mere virtue-signalling to call for their introduction, and an expensive pain in the butt for small brewers to have to supply for all the one-off beers they are likely to produce.

Whachamahuh? See, eleven years ago Bob Skilnik explained how easy it is to calculate the calories in beer. Here’s the story.  Here’s a calculator. Basically, it’s 250 calories to a 20 oz UK pint of 5% beer. Or 1/8th of your daily dietary requirement. Or 200 calories to a 20 oz UK pint of 4% beer. 1/10th of your daily dietary requirement. Standard. No research needed – but add a few more calories for any increase in heft. So it’s funny folk want to hide that simple truth. But the funniest thing is idea that calorie counts are meaningless to all but a few beer drinkers. Below is a handy comparison of trends for the term “beer calories” compared to “beer history” as search terms.  Now, I am not one to suggest one might want to examine one’s own life choices but if the dead end is where you are looking to find a niche of little interest, the study of beer history is clearly it.

Just another line I rode down from 2004 to now…

Finally, back to today and to reality… and as she has in the past, Beth has been very open again on her income from beer writing for the purpose of telling other freelancers to roll with the flow:

I just broke $12K for the entirety of 2020, which (despite being around 1/3 of my original 2020 income goal) is pretty damn impressive considering I’ve had zero childcare outlets for my ASD-diagnosed 3 year old since March.

I point this out to also note that if someone is going out of their way to be both painfully truthful about themselves while being encouraging to others, well, I expect that I can trust their word on other things.

Well, that’s summer 2020 going out with a load of complainers, complaints and the compliant. And me. I’m so great. Looking forward to Autumn 2020? Me too! As you do that, remember there’s  Boak and Bailey most Saturdays, plus more at the OCBG Podcast on Tuesdays (where Jordan shits on… no one!) and sometimes on a Friday posts at The Fizz as well.  And sign up for Katie’s weekly newsletter, too. Plus the venerable Full Pint podcast. And Fermentation Radio with Emma Inch. There’s the AfroBeerChick  podcast as well! And have a look at Brewsround‘s take on the beer writing of the week. Not to mention Cabin Fever. And Ben has finally gone all 2009 and joined in with his own podcast, Beer and Badword (and this week rants about why beer awards are stupid.) . And BeerEdge, too.

*Wailing away at his social media presence pointlessly for at least eleven years!