Beer in the End Times – Page 12

The Nights Have Gone Cool But Thursday Beery News Notes Go On

Achy. A bit from leaving the window open all night despite the forecast of quite cooler air. And me swimming in the big lake when its no longer quite so warm. Winter is coming. I’ve been in the lake maybe seven or ten times over the last few weeks. How long will it last? I grew up swimming in forest rivers as well as the North Atlantic Ocean back home in Nova Scotia. Lakes were always a bit stagnant by comparison. Folk call that “wild swimming” these days. I just call it swimming. Who knew the big water in the nearby big lake would be so big? Beach sand in the car. Beach toys in the trunk. Battered and beaten and happy am I.

First off, before the snow blows, Retired Martin has taken us on a trek to a pub in a lovely traditional thatched roof village in Devon, the Globe Inn in Beaford:

…turns out to be the most crafty of any place I visited in Devon. Plain but welcoming, a good all-rounder whose GBG credentials are a bit mystifying till you taste the beer. That little fridge on the right (below) was packed full of 10% DIPAs and mango sours…

Last weekend, I listened to a repeat of a short piece on the NPR radio show TTBOOK on the changes for the worse that have been imposed upon Bourbon County Stout through the sale of Goose Island to evil big industrial beer. It was particularly gratifying to see guest Josh Noel demonstrating the “nostril in the glass” technique I have been advocating for for about a decade and a half. Not unrelated but to the contrary, Mike reminded us on Twitter of the upside of the buy-out of craft:

You know when a brewery sells to the big guys and they say that it offers them more resources than they would have normally? This example shows that perfectly. Safe place for customers and their employees continue to have jobs. Just sayin.

Everyone’s favourite Midwest bar, the Olympic Tavern, that they have never visited had a rough bit of bad customer experience this week, something that highlights that during times of crisis some folk place having a beer and a Margarita high up on their priorities. Handled well. Along a similar vein, Pellicle has posted the tale of a Scottish drinking habit that, being Scots, I’ve never quite heard of:

The hauf an a hauf is traditional and modern at the same time. It’s a Scottish cultural institution we can be proud of: a combination in which to luxuriate, rather than down in pursuit of a buzz. The hauf an a hauf is about savouring both, two halves coming together to create something new, whole, and wholly wonderful.

There must be an alt-tartan reality that excluded the generations before me as the idea that there is some long pervasive history of buzz avoidance going on north of Gretna Green is news to me. Rather than suggesting it is a tradition, in 2014 TheBeerCast described the novelty in this way:

I guess the bottom line here is what do you want from a hauf and hauf? To get loaded, quicker? A US-style ‘Shot and a beer, Dolores’? Or to give a depth of flavour to each drink? It seems, judging from the conversation, that the way half and halves are being seen is changing, as a newer generation of beer/whisky fans indulge in the practice as a tasting exercise, rather than an end-of-shift exercise…

That makes more sense. That’s more in line with Great-Grannie Campbell between the wars being banned for life – a number of times – from the James Watt pub in Greenock even though she lived right above it. Or more likely because. Then the grandchildren being kicked out when they were sent to get a gill on her behalf.

More currently, Matt noted with some hesitancy the creation of something called the Small Brewers Forum in the UK. It is open to breweries:

The Small Brewers Forum has been formed to protect and preserve small British breweries and those who operate them. We have a successful and strong collective voice and campaign on behalf of our members to ‘fight for fairness’ in the industry. We take our campaigning to the highest level at national government as well as local government and within the brewing industry.

The published material indicates that the “only let small brewers join (sub-10000hL) so I can be sure that they represent what’s good for me without any of the big guys pulling the strings.” This makes a lot of sense to me. The numerical majority of brewers are small and have local markets. Their issues are very different from regionals and big craft. Here in Ontario, while there isn’t a second organization after OCB, the membership of that organization represents only the minority of the province’s brewers. Trade organizations structured on “craft” or geography make less sense than those with common issues based on scale.

In the ha ha dumb dumb news item of the week, Budweiser was caught echoing Eco*:

On Friday, the company wrote, in a now-deleted tweet, about two of their brands, Budweiser and Bud Light. “Reject modernity, embrace tradition,” the tweet read, telling consumers to enjoy the original beverage over it’s lower-calorie counterpart. Pictured were the sleek, modern-looking Bud Light can, along with the classic designed Budweiser beer. However, the seemingly simple message raised some eyebrows. One Twitter user, Joshua A.C. Newman, pointed out the origins of the text for the ad. “Are you deliberately quoting the first two elements of Umberto Eco’s 14 elements of Fascism?” he responded to the since-deleted tweet.

There’s that concept of “tradition” again. Calling card of the casually ahistorical.

And, as recommended by Andy, I signed up for the beer newsletter by David Infante – and was pleased to find out it was also a blog. There are a lot of beer blogs holding themselves out as online beer magazines and newsletters these days. It’s a bit sad that self-publishing is that little bit needy that it needs to hide itself behind odd labels and a thin veneer of exclusivity. Anyway, his latest blog post “Hire me, White Claw” caught my attention primarily as it confirmed what I should have known – this year’s trendy cooler White Claw is Canadian!!!** While Jordan mentioned it in passing in his recent post he did not hit me over the head with the fact. Never had one sip myself. Nope. So virtuous I am. Plus I have Pickled Green Bean Clamato for that.

Stan has been telling tales again – this time about new hops being named and brought to market:

By announcing a name for the experimental hop previously known as HBC 692 the company signaled she is her own brand. “We were getting very significant pull (demand),” said Jason Perrault, CEO and hop breeder for Yakima Chief Ranches. HBC is a partnership between YCR and John I. Haas. “We’ve seen the impact it can have in a beer. Unique, but appealing. It was just time to give it its own identity.” The name, Talus, is a nod to the talus slopes found in the Yakima Valley. She is a daughter of Sabro, the hop formerly known as HBC 438 and commercialized in 2018.

I’m not a hop spotter myself, preferring to drink and think about beer once made but it is interesting to see how in the hop trade these sorts of things matter. Mr Stange even admitted to having been aware of the name (before the name was released) by way of an embargoed press release – which made me wonder if new shoe lace tech also comes with embargoed press releases. You should also sign up for Stan’s newsletter Hop Queries to really keep up. It’s a blog he sends to you monthly by email.

Finally, Jeff posted a post on Wednesday about the brewing volume stats coming out of the Oregon Liquor Control Commission so far in this very odd year:

The Oregon Liquor Control Commission tracks the taxable barrels sold by Oregon breweries in Oregon. I’ve been watching to see when the June report would drop, because that will give us six months of data to see what kind of violence COVID-19 has done to breweries. The upshot: it’s been bad, but maybe not as bad as we might have guessed back in March. Thirteen of the top twenty breweries were down from this time last year, some substantially. But overall, the top 20 breweries were only down 2% from the same period in 2019.

While that is an average that is great news. If I could go back to myself five months ago, in the middle of the beginning of the stress of what was to come, and say “don’t worry it’ll only be 2% off” I’d be ecstatic. Now, it’s clear that it is an average and some are suffering more than that but for an economic snapshot that’s a pretty sweet picture.

In news of the ancient, Merryn gave me the heads up about a weekly web event put on by EXARC, “the ICOM Affiliated Organisation on Archaeological Open-Air Museums, Experimental Archaeology, Ancient Technology and Interpretation”:

Historical-archaeological Beer Brewers unite! We meet for a chat, this Saturday, 20:00h CET. It’s free, it’s open access and for anybody with a serious interest and / or experience with historic, archaeological craft brewing, anywhere in the world.

You sign up, too! Now!! I may be mowing as that’s mid-afternoon on the best day of the week. The heart of Saturday afternoon which is prep time for the heart of Saturday night.***

Here’s an interesting bit of news. An Albertan laboratory ran a study of beers entered into an awards judge-y thing to see if there were patterns in award giving outery:

The Raft Beer Labs analysis, published on its website, showed a few trends among medal-winning beers. Fresher beer was more likely to win an award. Medal winners were more likely to have a dry-finish than non-winners. Award-winning beers also tended to be clearer, with less turbidity than non-winners. Medal winners were also found to have lower free amino nitrogen levels and tended to be slightly higher in alcohol content than their target. The analysis also showed that both winners and non-winners were less bitter — measured in IBUs, or International Bittering Units — than the listed level, and both winners and non-winners had some microbial contamination, from wild yeasts or bacteria.

Interesting. Clearer, stronger and less bitter beers were preferred. The opposite of trendy low-alc murky hop bombs the blogs and micro blogs and photo blogs and podcast blogs and multi-author blogs are all talking about.

Finally, I am not sure I understand the point of this story. Why care about a brewery that many have written off? Why write and publish “Founders continues to defend its corporate culture”?

Done! For more of the good stuff but from a different view and in a range of blog formats, check in with Boak and Bailey most Saturdays, plus more at the OCBG Podcast on Tuesdays (listen as they shit on Belleville this week!) and sometimes on a Friday posts at The Fizz as well. And sign up for Katie’s weekly newsletter, too. Plus the venerable Full Pint podcast. And Fermentation Radio with Emma Inch. There’s the AfroBeerChick podcast as well! And have a look at Brewsround‘s take on the beer writing of the week. Not to mention Cabin Fever. And Ben has finally gone all 2009 and joined in with his own podcast, Beer and Badword.**** And BeerEdge, too.

*I know – excellent, right?
**Which is sorta like saying “Soylent Green is people!” in some circles.
***Yup.
****The greatest Great Lake is obviously Lake Ontario as it contains all the other Great Lakes.

As I Lay On The Sofa During A Week Off I Daydream Of Thursday’s Beery News Notes

There. I said it. I’m off this week. I think everyone else is too as there has not been much reading to do. Or is it that I have not been reading? Look, I’ve been in a hotel for two nights in another city, an experience which was 87% comfortable, 13% covid angst. I’ve slept in, napped, dozed and generally watched the lawn grow from various angles and elevations. And I’ve drifted pointlessly on the internets.

Maybe I just needed to get off my butt and have a look around. So I did and to the right is my favorite and rather science-laced photo of the week posted by Sir Geoff Palmer along with this explanation:

Barley to Malt: 1972 Electron Micrograph of transverse section of a starch granule from barley (left). After the barley is grown (malted) channels of enzyme digestion (starch to sugar) in a starch granule can be seen (right). Starch to sugar digestion also occurs in our mouths…

Excellent. And made of actual science. The best read of the week has to be this story which is also a bit science focused about how animals use alcohol including a phenomenon I’ve actually witnessed, the drunken starlings at the Rowan tree:

North American songbirds sometimes get grounded when they eat too much fermented fruit. This can easily happen in the spring when migrant birds gorge on crabapples which have overwintered, or arrowwood, juniper, winterberry, and other native berries still clinging to branches. Cedar waxwings, which feed largely on fruit, are especially vulnerable to intoxication or even fatal alcohol poisoning. Certainly some of this is accidental, but birds have been observed breaking the skin on fruit, thus exposing the juices to airborne yeast spores, and returning 24-48 hours later to selectively eat the fizzy fruit.

Forty years ago in high school, we sat watching out the front window as the row of starlings did 360 flips on the telephone wire, holding on all the time but each losing grip over and over. Magic.

In more sober news, Jeff has been running a reader’s survey. Have a look.

In less sober news, Don Redmond posted a posted about a brewery crawl in my home town six months ago during the pre-times. And he included some business-side stories, the sort of information that never comes out when folk are reporting as opposed to writing:

…he added that outside money people had approached him on occasion, asking if he’d like investors. While outside interest is obviously a good sign for any business, simply because it means others see your potential and would like a piece of that pie, there’s also a downside. Silent partners never stay silent. In fact, they tend to forget what the word ‘silent’ actually means. And since they would like to see the best return on their investment, it isn’t long before they start suggesting cost-cutting measures…

Quite conversely, extravagance reigned as the BBC reported in 1983 on the new quiches of Glasgow’s pub life. And speaking of odd food and beer but more of a not pairing, here is a tale of engineering and brewing and seafood out of the Philippines which I am not sure I can quite follow:

The conglomerate, also the nation’s largest beermaker, will plant 190,000 mangroves in coastal areas near the capital to prevent flooding at the site of the proposed largest gateway in the Southeast Asian nation. To protect these forests, San Miguel will also grow 100,000 mud crabs monthly at the 10-hectare mangrove plantation in Bulacan province, President Ramon Ang said in a statement. Mud crabs can be a source of livelihood for people in the area, he said.

On the other side of the planet, Evan wrote an excellent piece on decoction brewing which included a bit of technical detail of a science-y sort which you might expect from Beer and Brewing* magazine:

Polyphenol levels? Highest in triple-decocted beers, followed by double-decocted beers, and then single-decocted beers, with infusion-mashed beers down at the very bottom, according to a 2004 monograph written by scientists at the Czech Republic’s Research Institute of Brewing and Malting. Dimethyl sulfate (DMS) and acetaldehyde? Lower with decoction, higher with infusion, in both green and finished beers, both of which also improve in direct relation to the number of decoctions, according to a 2005 paper by researchers at Pilsner Urquell. That paper also credits decoction with improving bitterness, cold-break content, sedimentation, and soluble nitrogen.

While I can’t imagine anything more tangential to a political scene that beer in Hong Kong at the moment – this moment when their democratic rights are being stripped – apparently GBH did find a way:

By and large, Hong Kong’s craft beer community was supportive of the protests, although few bars could advertise their support openly, because the police control the issuing of liquor licenses. Now the protest chants have been silenced and banners removed because of the national security law, whose broadly defined crimes include obstructing the government and promoting hatred of China. At least one employee of a local brewery has quit his job and fled the city because he feared he would be targeted under the new law. Although legal analysts say it’s unlikely the law will have a direct impact on employers such as breweries, it does give police new powers to search and seize property without a warrant if they suspect it has been used by someone violating national security.

I have no idea which “legal analysts” speak to the potential that a regime with a massive cultural genocide on the go in one end of the country would not want to bother with craft breweries – but the author appears to still live half time in Hong Kong so there is that reality.

Beer for dullards?

Back to the science based reality, Stan posted an excellent piece that apparently could not wait for his newsletter (which you must and should sign up for) on the new hop varieties which are coming down the pipeline:

The most anticipated new name this year is whatever HBC is calling HBC 692. Releasing the name is an event is on the calendar (Sept. 9, 9 a.m. PST) for Yakima Chief’s virtual hop harvest. HBC 692 is a daughter of Sabro and depending on who is describing the aroma and flavor is packed with “grapefruit, floral, stone fruit, potpourri, woody, coconut, and pine.” She is a high impact hop, bound for plenty of hazy IPAs.

Again in less science based news, we are told that a Sam Smith’s pub posted a Covid-19 notice on Facebook (as shown to the right) then removed it then indicated that it is not participating in track and trace due to privacy concerns… whatever that means… speaking as a privacy lawyer… Not where I’d be spending (i) my hard earned and/or (ii) remaining time on this mortal coil.

Brewing science is also dangerous. But it is also tasty and even edgy as this tale from western Canada shows:

A Calgary brewery is hoping to convince beer lovers that an ale made from municipal wastewater is tasty and safe. Village Brewery has teamed up with University of Calgary researchers and U.S. water technology company Xylem to create a limited-edition batch. The water comes from the Pine Creek wastewater treatment plant by the Bow River in southeast Calgary. Partially treated water was run through an advanced purification system that involved ultrafiltration, ozone, ultraviolet light and reverse osmosis.

Perhaps even less appealing is this piece starting at the outset of this odd story about an anti-police brand of beer, there was this intro which gave me such great faith about what it takes to be a beer reviewer these days:

A fellow recently asked me if I would participate in online beer reviews. There would be a paycheck attached. I don’t drink whiskey (my only memory is something that would taste like a used sweat sock) and wine is like cough syrup. I hated Formula 44 as a kid. My mom would nearly fight me to take a teaspoonful. I got in touch with the editor of a national beer magazine. He’s a former broadcaster and the grandson of a Stroh’s distributor. The editor gave me a long list of smaller breweries here in the Northwest. It’s a good jumping off point.

Note: having worked as both a criminal defence lawyer and also with the police, I’m convinced there are certainly bastards and scumbags but there are also a lot of hard working good folk who do the things that need to be done that no one thanks them for. So I’d likely pass on the beer, too. And backing anyone fighting for BLM and other forms of holding officers and officials to account while doing better. But without a doubt I’d never read this guy’s reviews.

How is the macroeconomic scene looking here well into month six of the pandemic lockdown? Good or horrible depending who you are:

During the COVID-19 period (from the week ending March 8 through August 8), beer category volume growth has averaged 15.3%. Nielsen estimated that the beer category would need to average 22% volume growth in off-premise retailers to offset the loss of on-premise sales — which hasn’t happened. That estimation assumes the on-premise accounts for 20% of the industry’s total volume and sales declines of 90%, the firm said.

Not helping is the reintroduction of US tariffs on Canadian aluminum which goes into those cans that are keeping good beer sales moving. One brewery notes:

Ninkasi’s CEO Nigel Francisco says it is pushing out their planning and their ability to quickly react to a changing market place. “We’re experiencing a can shortage,” Francisco said. “So, what’s happening is, there’s so much package product being sold and consumed in the market right now. It’s pushing some of the small breweries like us to supply shortages. We haven’t experienced any true supply shortages yet, but we have experienced longer lead times.”

Hangover science? Not that I am going to write about hard seltzers… but this is interesting information:

On the other hand, because it doesn’t containcongeners, a byproduct of the fermentation process that produces chemicals like acetone, acetaldehyde, and methanol, the hangover from White Claw could be less intense for some people, especially if they don’t generally experience stomachaches. “Hard seltzers have a very low concentration of congeners, which are thought to contribute to hangover symptoms,” Dr. Braunstein says. “Certain alcohols, such as red wine, brandy, and whiskey, are known to contain much higher levels.”

Finally, and as Martyn advised, BrewDog valuation has passed that of both Carlsberg and Stella each according to something called Brand Finance… according to the Morning Advertiser:

Brand Finance also used factors such as marketing investment, customer familiarity, staff satisfaction and corporate reputation to name Budweiser the world’s strongest beer brand… Interestingly, among this year’s climbers was independent Scottish craft brewer and pub operator BrewDog which bounded ahead of bar top mainstays such as Stella Artois to take 18th place…

“Craft” meaning exactly what in this context…? anymore…? ever…? BTW: also craft… while also “?”

There. Done. That’s a bit better this week. A reasonable mix, a bit of volume. And a lot less angst. I did see a dreary article which will go unnamed that combined “neo-prohibitionist” with a passing science-less denial of alcohol’s health risks** so there is bad stuff out there. Be warned. For more of the good stuff but from a different view, check in with Boak and Bailey most Saturdays, plus more at the OCBG Podcast on Tuesdays and sometimes on a Friday posts at The Fizz as well. And sign up for Katie’s weekly newsletter, too. Plus the venerable Full Pint podcast. And Fermentation Radio with Emma Inch. There’s the AfroBeerChick podcast as well! And have a look at Brewsround‘s take on the beer writing of the week. Not to mention Cabin Fever. And Ben has finally gone all 2009 and joined in with his own podcast, Beer and Badword. And BeerEdge, too.

*The addition of “Craft” in the title seems to be a bit nouveau, a tad post-URL so I’m a bit confused as to branding versus identify.
**There is still no J-curve. People don’t get sick because they don’t drink. They don’t drink because they are sick… or against it as a Scottish Presbyterian or Muslim and sick… or because they just don’t like the taste and sick… or they are a child and sick. Science.

Your Mid-August Beery News Notes For A Thursday

Wow. I thought last week was dull. Not much happening but it’s mid-August, right? Starting out this week’s drafting I wondered how I’ll fill the page. That’s sorta like any August, right? It’s not the pandemic, right? Not at all. Right? To the right is an image that popped up on Twitter which I liked so much I bought the same hat. Maybe. Remember: winter is coming.

What is up? USA Today published an article on the state of racial diversity in brewing in America this week. It got a fair amount of attention, including weirdly stated attention, for what it stated but I find it as important that it was published where it was published. USA Today sits in hotel lobbies and piled next to the door in gas station convenience stores when you travel the interstates. It is lightweight and cheery and has a lot of things called info-graphics. Yet it is pretty specific in the specifics:

Just 1% of craft brewery owners were Black, the survey found. There about 60 Black-owned craft breweries out of more than 8,000 craft breweries in the U.S. By comparison, that survey found that the population around breweries was about 12.2% Black. The U.S. Census lists Blacks as accounting for 13.4% of the population.

Along those lines, GBH has published three pieces on racial discrimination on craft this week. Beth, the named editor, mentioned this passage in Part II by Toni Boyce:

A community excluded from craft’s evangelical crusade can’t seriously be expected to carry on the industry’s message or inconvenience themselves to support the industry that excluded it, let alone convince others to do so.

I mention this in particular as it connects in my mind with another reality pointed out by Josh Noel (published along with the rest of his book) that a goal in forming the Brewers Association in around 2005 was to cope with the separate – and not all savory – identities being expressed in micro brewing at that time and to form one message of one semi-plastic community.

Matt published a helpful commissioned guide to current understanding of what IPA is. Of course it’s riddled with the normal quibbly inaccuracies but, unlike most matters related to beer expertise, it actually acknowledges that it’s riddled with inaccuracies. Because beer expertise is about intentions, right? And desires. And not admitting. Anyway, because it’s self-aware its a very good guide to current perceptions:

For now I want to provide you with my own personal list of IPA styles, developed by analysing existing style guidelines published by the Beer Judge Certification Program (BJCP) and Brewers Association (BA) and then adding my own whimsical spin on them. I have used US definitions rather than those developed by UK bodies such as CAMRA and SIBA as I feel these are the most up to date and accurate with regards to what is actually being brewed in terms of IPA specifically.

This is good. There are a few styles missing, of course, but that’s quibbles. Pre-craft* macro IPAs still exist. Beers like Harpoon IPA which were sometimes called NEIPA before NEIPA. And beers like Keiths IPA which are macro lagers but which are also somewhat popular. And Deuchars. What the hell is that, anyway? And North America has almost 180 years of continuous autonomous IPA brewing history.** But these are quibbles. As is a snapshot of what the marketeers are making you believe these days, it’s great. Play Ron’s game, too!

I might be more sympathetic to this effort to raise awareness about greenwashing published in Forbes if the brewery were not owned by a firm that supplies a murderous military dictatorship.

Josh Noel*** published the story of that darling of that past brief era called “craft” – Goose Island Bourbon County – in this the year of pandemic:

The Bourbon County show must go on. Exactly how it will go on during the coronavirus pandemic is unclear. But as it has for the past 10 years, Goose Island Beer Co. will release its flock of barrel-aged Bourbon County beers the day after Thanksgiving across Chicago and beyond… But if the COVID-19 pandemic persists into November — which seems likelier than not — those crowds may become a public health hazard.

Of all the things that aren’t worth it these days, somehow a beer release event is very low on the list yet also very high on the list. Like: (i) who would go… (ii) and who would go? NowhuhImsayn?

Jeff complained and complained in a piece he published on the craft era Franken-glass curiosity that is the IPA glass by Spiegelau:

According to designers, the elongated snout-like bowl creates an aroma “cannon”; the Michelin-man bubble-ridges at the base agitate the beer into further aromatic heights. Curves can be nice, but these are jejune—they don’t flow naturally, but rather bulge foolishly like the barrel on a 1960s toy ray-gun.

I again remind the most careful readers that the whole thing was a bit carney as the glass is just a relabeled existing design with a few ml more in volume. Racket. Better to use a jam jar.

For some reason, the Brewers Association is keeping data it has published related to Brewery opening and closing hours private, available to the membership. Unnecessarily Masonic. And I should know! I expect it is similarly a bit pointless as Le Bart may have been foreshadowing. Kinda comforting to be excluded, too.

Well, that is it. OK but no award winner. Hah! Who needs awards? For more of the same but different, check in with Boak and Bailey most Saturdays, plus more at the OCBG Podcast on Tuesdays and sometimes on a Friday posts at The Fizz as well. And sign up for Katie’s weekly newsletter, too. Plus the venerable Full Pint podcast. And Fermentation Radio with Emma Inch. There’s the AfroBeerChick podcast as well! And have a look at Brewsround‘s take on the beer writing of the week. Not to mention Cabin Fever. And Ben has finally gone all 2009 and joined in with his own podcast, Beer and Badword. And BeerEdge, too.

*If anyone calls anything before around 2005 “craft” you have to remember and sympathize as they might be a beer expert so, you know, that has to be taken into account. See if you can find a US brewing historian specializing in the 21st century instead.
**The reality is there were at least three coexisting sources acting routes to US micro IPA brewing. So far I have: (i) UK home brewing and brewing encountered on 1970s and 80s personal and professional travels both ways across the Atlantic, (ii) Bert Grant and his Canadian roots and routes in strong hoppy ales, (iii) SNPA as a clone of Ballentine as Foster explained. But don’t be looking to others to tell you that.
***Pour Le Double!!!

The Dog Days Of August Offer Similar Beery News Notes

It’s August. If the barley ain’t in, it will be soon. That’s out the outside world. In inside world news, DSL reposted the image above, the interior of C’est What in downtown Toronto. Does it really pose a problem? C’est What is one of my favourite “waiting for the train home” pubs, as noted 15 years ago and again 5 years ago. I haven’t been on a train for five months. No idea when I will again. But I will.

What’s been going on? I don’t know how to footnote a podcast* or quite a passage from one so all I can do is recommend Andy’s thoughts on the needs for independent reportage of the brewing trade. More meta arose in response to Jeff’s further thoughts on the state of making a freelance living from beer writing:

Many hours in a freelance writer’s life are not occupied by the activities that directly contribute to finished pieces, and a level of chaos emerges from all the other odd work that rattles around, inevitably demanding attention at inconvenient, unexpected moments. Let’s spend a moment unpacking them.

Responses ensued** from many including Eoghan, Maureen, Boak and Bailey and Katie. Me, it’s a mug’s game honestly entered into that often leads to this which leads to this and then oddly this.

Elsewhere, Jon Abernathy reports on the Black Is Beautiful project in Oregon:

I just checked, and the number in Oregon is now 37 on the website, though it doesn’t count Deschutes Brewery, which partnered with The Ale Apothecary (as I mention in the article), so really it’s 38 in Oregon. This is a vitally important project that shouldn’t be ignored. If you see a Black is Beautiful beer on tap, or available in cans, buy it—your dollars will help to fund the necessary change we need to see right now.

Some questions arose over the weekend as to how many of your dollars were actually helping fund change as the differences between proceeds and profits were discussed. But elsewhere real money was gathered: $20,000 and $12,000 for example.

Speaking of gathering resources against the forces of badness, I like this bit of brewing industry legal news. Source Brewing in New Jersey has released a beer called West Coast Troll to help raise funds to help Sawstone Brewing in its defense of the odd threat of an intellectual property legal action brought by one of big craft’s top millstones, Stone:

Here at Source, we do not condone bullying and we are all about supporting small businesses. It’s important to stop and remember how we got here, and how beautiful and life-changing the craft beer community is for so many people. Rising tides raise all ships and our collective focus should remain on sticking together and resisting the corporate bullying often exercised by “Big Beer,” and not on picking on one another. We stand with Stone Brewing in their dispute with MillerCoors, but we firmly support Sawstone Brewing in defending their right to exist.

Class. And solidarity. And Stone as a result has earned itself a FB page rallying for a boycott. Brilliant. Surely completely unconnected was the sudden departure of Stone’s CEO.

Historically, Martyn has told a tale again, this time about Flowers Keg ale in the 1950s and an anti-slaver posse in the 1820s in US Midwest:

Let us begin at the beginning. I knew about Richard Flower because he is an important figure in the history of brewing in Hertfordshire, and I knew he had moved to Illinois to join his son George, who was one of the pioneers in developing what was called the “English Settlement” in the territory, which developed into the city of Albany. But I didn’t know that Richard, who was born in London, had trained at Whitbread…

Health-wise, Evan wrote about alcohol and health claims for Wine Enthusiast:

“Many people are aware of the negative effects of drinking, but drink anyway,” she says. For many, she says, such internal conflict can produce a feeling of mental discomfort. “Reading a newspaper article that states that drinking isn’t that bad after all might reduce this feeling of discomfort.”

Note: there is still no J-curve.

And filed under very pleasant surprises, while it has not often been the case, I really enjoyed something in Good Beer Hunting. I’ve too often been let down by past cut and paste jobs leaning on too heavily on the published work of others followed by the typical “one the one hand on the other” tepid conclusions. But not this week when Kate Bernot really put the old boot in the Brewers Association. Consider this bit of well deserved finger-pointery:

The BA’s assertion that it will not kick out breweries unless doing so has strong support from other member breweries indicates the organization will not take a top-down approach to eradicating racism among members. Yet experts in the business world have said corporate leadership is especially necessary on these issues.

Among other responses, it got me looking through my own archives and found (then, imagine – tweeted) this gem of days now seemingly long gone:

From the archives: “The Eight Years Reign of Craft Beer Ends” (Jan., 2015) [See this timely thought… => “One of the key PR goals of the Brewer’s Association has been control of the discourse.”]

Not no more. Good news that story. A bit of spine. Now, if we can just get the guild of pro-am beer editors with empty pantry issues stop praising crappy PR cut and paste sweatshops I might be able to sleep at night. Similarly, the Polk says F the guilds… sorta.

Getting back to the actual life of the actual consumer, the Tand himself wrote about the joys and pitfalls of app service as opposed to table service in the pandemic pub scene:

Our next stop Mackie Mayor had similar issues. If you wanted to only have a drink, you had to sit outside – fine – and use the app – not so fine. This time it wouldn’t download on Android, but it liked Mike’s iPhone. Details required were of the intrusive nature. This took 20 minutes or so again and this time, after a ten-minute wait, decent pints of cask, in proper glasses, were brought. Overall though much more bearable. But not that great.

Not great at all.

Worse? Yes, it could be far worse. Well, there is Cowbell here in Ontario. Check out the second half of the latest OCPG podcast for the details but it’s a bit of an ugly initial mess followed by a PR mess followed by not sure what next… ugh.

Well, that is it. For more of the same but different, check in with Boak and Bailey most Saturdays, plus more at the OCBG Podcast on Tuesdays and sometimes on a Friday posts at The Fizz as well. And sign up for Katie’s weekly newsletter, too. Plus the venerable Full Pint podcast. And Fermentation Radio with Emma Inch. There’s the AfroBeerChick podcast as well! And have a look at Brewsround‘s take on the beer writing of the week. Not to mention Cabin Fever. And Ben has finally gone all 2009 and joined in with his own podcast, Beer and Badword. And BeerEdge, too.

*But is a podcast even a podcast without thirty-five “umms” and a dozen snorts? Can’t wait for the new profession of beer podcast audio producers and sound engineers to arise to follow in the brave footsteps of the post-2018 phenom of beer writing editors.
**Oddly, no suggestion that beer writing editors were the solution…

Your Thursday Newsy Notes For The End Of July In Beerland

After last week’s mess of unified theory of a something or other, it would be nice to find some chat that is (i) about beer and (ii) not about other things. You know, those bits of the trivial dribble that attracted me to scribbling about beer in the first place. It’s not just that good beer got into sectarian schisms, then politics, then laced with the pandemic – it’s that it all got so real. Don’t get me wrong, the real is good and important. But sometimes I like to wallow in, the vital but unimportant things in life. Like that really sad BBQ pack, above, that my pal Brian saw at a Maritime Canadian grocery store this week. Pointless… yet strangely compelling.

As a means to hopefully show what I mean, consider this wonderful bit by Katie in Pellicle on the place of burger vans in her life:

This is where I draw the line between burger vans and food trucks. For me, food trucks bring me images of gourmet falafel wraps, jackfruit tacos, outrageous fried chicken and homemade sauces. They’re run by chefs and dreamers on enthusiasm and aspiration, passion and excitement. I enjoy them, but they are a different beast. A burger van might also be a grill on wheels, but that’s where the comparisons stop. A burger van is a means to an end. The owners are chipper, but brisk and efficient. The sauces are bulk-bought and sharp with vinegar and citric acid.

Lovely writing about what is basically… well, is “…what my mum would call “a waste of money.” I have especially enjoyed following her family’s obsession with Superbike, something which really does not exist in my imaginary North America, something British which I only know through staring at 1930s racing championship programs on offer at eBay.

Beer reviews. That is pretty old school straight forward beer blogging, right? Well, Alistair over at Fuggled has renewed his blogging activity and shared his thoughts on one old friend, London Pride:

There are times when I drink this that I really understand why American brewers and drinkers have such a hard time grasping the fact bitter should be, well, bitter. It’s not that it is terribly sweet, though the mouthfeel feels a little like undissolved jelly cubes, it’s that the hops are nudged out by the famous Fuller’s yeast character, as well as not being the same kind of citrus as folks are used to here. So many breweries here use very clean top fermenting yeasts that the character of the beer is so different, and I wonder if American breweries under hop the tyle as a result?

And when the conscientious beer blogger is not writing reviews, she or he should be discussing pubs like the Tand himself did this week when he wrote about one of his “…favourite pubs in the UK, the Coalbrookdale Inn in, well Coalbrookdale…” and included this fabulous paragraph:

After a few minutes – the pub has a more or less square bar – the landlord shouted “Phone call for Peter”. We all ignored this. Now to explain to my younger reader, back in those days – pre mobile phone – it wasn’t at all unusual to call a pub and ask to speak to “whoever” if he is in. Now nobody knew we were there we thought and therefore the call out in a busy pub could not possibly be for any of us and could be safely ignored. We carried on supping. Having got no response, the barman returned to the phone, presumably to relate the lack of success to the caller. A few seconds later he appeared in front of us. “Any of you lads Peter Alexander?” quoth our hero. I stammered “Me” while we all looked on in astonishment. “Phone call for you” he said.

Do you like brewing history? Good news for all! The UK’s National Brewery Centre’s archives have gone online:

Two years ago a project began to produce a digital catalogue and this is what launches today. At a cost of £50,000, it was funded by generous grants from the likes of the Consolidated Charity of Burton on Trent, Staffordshire Community Foundation, the Campaign for Real Ale (CAMRA) and the Brewers’ Research Education Fund, additional funds were raised from corporate and individual donors as well as via a crowdfunding campaign. The archive system was designed and built by Shrewsbury-based digital heritage consultants Orangeleaf Systems, whose other projects include The Parliamentary Archives and the Royal Mail Archives.

More fabulousness!

Lars opened up a small can of worms in a very small pantry when he asked “What counts as a farmhouse ale?” in an actual blog post:

The most common question I get in interviews is “what do you consider to be a farmhouse ale?” and since the answer is a little involved I decided to write it up more fully. There is a fairly clear-cut definition, but it takes a little explaining.

I think the only issue is that Lars has to have one footnote to the first paragraph that reads “*supra, Lars” given he is both the reporter and the compiler of the information in the topic. I don’t necessarily agree with the idea that there is a thing called “farmhouse ales” which is an umbrella noun under which all styles fall. But I do like it as a process description that is identifying similar practices playing out in sheds and kitchens in disconnected locations. As a function of what the life of a farmhouse includes. As Lars notes in his piece:

In the 18th and the 19th Centuries, you had plenty of farming treatises being published. In most if not all of them you have a chapter on brewing.

Brewing as a farming function as much as managing the manure pile or tilling the fields. Note: the wonderful Girardin grows its own grain and has done so for generations… but it may not be brewing farmhouse ale.

Perhaps less monumental that van burgers or les bieres des shed, is the story told by B+B of pubs collecting pennies for charity in post-war Britain:

Looking through old brewery in-house magazines from the 1950s and 60s, one recurring image is inescapable: a monstrous pile of pennies on a bar, in the process of being toppled by a celebrity.

Jeff wrote about losing his blog’s sponsorship to Covid (sorta like I did in the aftermath of the market crash of 2008) which is a very brave admission and not really fabulous at all:

The first question was whether I should even continue with the site. Most writers don’t maintain blogs. They would rather put their effort into procuring and writing paid gigs. It was kind of crazy that I hadn’t monetized the site at all for its first decade, and I realized I couldn’t put the hours of work into it for free anymore. Either ditch it or—sorry for the crass jargon—monetize it. I decided to try the latter before resorting to the former, and considered how to do so in the way that would minimize my conflict of interest while maximizing revenue.

Keep the blog. Writing gigs may make money but the writing is Dullsville.

And lastly, Stan went into the woods this week and he sure got a big surprise.

Enough unreality for you? Fine. OK…. here are the top real news items for the week:

1. JJB took a side on the small brewers’ tax credit reforms in England and Wales. Matt is angry over the same thing.

2. Jeff has split off his political writing from his beer blog to share what he is seeing on the front lines of the fight in the US’s pro-democracy movement in his hometown.

3. Alcohol use, especially heavy use, weakens the immune system and thus reduces the ability to cope with infectious diseases.

4. And today would be a great day to arrest those who killed Breonna Taylor.

Don’t forget it is real out there. The cool sip of a mild legal intoxicant that is wearing down your internal organs prematurely should not distract you too much from the real. Beer isn’t real.*

There. Done. Some great pro-am and am beer writing for the week. A bit of a side show but, still, worthy in itself. For more, check in with Boak and Bailey most Saturdays, plus more at the OCBG Podcast on Tuesdays and sometimes on a Friday posts at The Fizz as well. And sign up for Katie’s weekly newsletter, too. Plus the venerable Full Pint podcast. And Fermentation Radio with Emma Inch. There’s the AfroBeerChick podcast as well! And have a look at Brewsround‘s take on the beer writing of the week. Not to mention Cabin Fever. And Ben has finally gone all 2009 and joined in with his own podcast, Beer and Badword.

*The latest blurt from Stone should be enough proof of that.

The Week Off… Or The Off Week Edition Of Thursday Beery News Notes

You thought last week was cranky? Welcome to the last seven days. The only comfort in the rage and rancor is that good beer is ultimately 80% pointlessness attached to 20% agriculture. Matt supplied a lovely reminder of that latter aspect when he tweeted the picture above in comforting solidarity when the conversation briefly turned to the question of influencers.* So, what to do in these troubled times? To get past the days of shock of pandemic and now facing the months of slog ahead? Other than the obvious option of finding something real to care about, as a public service this week’s beery news notes are structured to give the committed some guidance on how to manage one’s personal road forward.

Shop! The big news for me was shared by a brewer who admitted that the home delivery service had fallen away to 20% of its April high in sales. The market isn’t there unless we are all locked in. Then we learn of the venerable Beer Ritz Leeds shutting its store front operations. And as we move back on to patios and now, at least in my part of the world, into the bars themselves again, we see many doors staying locked and signs coming down. So, go buy beer. And that also means if you are one of the many beer writers who have a hoard of samples, let them sit and go spend your money. Samples are a drag on a brewery’s bottom line. Don’t make it worse. And buy all the actual good beer books that are out there. There was this news in this month’s Boak and Bailey Bulletin found near to my email’s inbox:

We got some sad news last week: our book 20th Century Pub, approaching its third birthday, hasn’t sold as well as it ought to have done and the remaining copies are going to be destroyed or remaindered. Brew Britannia did OK and even made it to a second printing but this one just didn’t click in the same way. It won awards. People that read it said nice things. But clearly, something about it put people off reading in the first place.

I liked the book so much, the review was a two-parter! Start with buying that one.

Complain! Now that your wallet is empty, use your voice. Jordan took the time to explore the effect of doom scrolling on social media, taking the time to use a number of words I had never encountered before so I had to read it a few times to make sense of it all. This I think is were it might have gotten off track to my mind:

Beer Twitter is pretty toxic. Nominally, all of the people on Beer Twitter share an appreciation for a beverage, and you’d be forgiven for assuming that would result in a big happy family full of boosters and cheerleaders. In practice, it’s a lot more vicious than you’d expect, resulting in blockings, mutings, shunnings, dogpiles, drama, slap fights, flame wars, and the occasional population wide schism. Beer Social Media in general has problems.

See, it’s not beer social media that’s skewed. It’s beer culture generally, especially those trying to be heard and paid to be heard. Alcohol and cash have always created a bitchy side. I have a great thread of emails from 2006 with snappy behind the back lines between beer writers like “I felt that frost for years. He keeps his distance.” And there’s the weird bits in that 2010 Protz bio. Not a big happy family any more than most bars are. I’ve been a bouncer. No, if you step outside your small clique in the physical or digital world you will see it. And, unless you are sufficiently insulated with cash like a old school micro brewery owner or trade association exec who can hire the lawyers and file the law suits for you, making a buck at all this has always been a hard row to hoe and we are now living in a drought. So people blame the medium. Might as well as blame the current lack of snowfall. My advice? Complain. That’s what Jordan himself actually did. I don’t think he’s entirely right but he sure did the right thing. If you want to spout off, do it. No one really cares given it’s all hobby chat. And it’s just beer. And sandwiches.

Sign up! But is it just beer? Aside from the effects of too much cash in too few hands, there is a third factor. People. People amongst whom the pie is not equally shared. People who face the insult of various forms of insult, from snark to discrimination. Good beer offers no relief from life’s realities and can actually hide them from view. If we pretend this is one big happy family. So, rather than just complain,** sign up. One possible example of changes to back were perhaps those announced this week in the US where the Brewer’s Association, after pressure, is about 15 years behind in its decision to adopt a code of conduct. While they say “we must hold ourselves to a higher standard” they actually have to first have a standard to start with. So that is something… maybe. And the BA is advertising for nominations for the board. It is, as is usually the case, less of an opportunity that it at first appeared to be:

There are five board openings — three for packaging brewers, one for taproom brewers, and one for pub brewers. While previous experience in committee work for the Brewers Association or state brewers guild is desired, nominees with other related experience are welcome. To nominate a packaging, brewpub, or taproom brewery representative, you must be an employee of that brewery class. Nominees who are Brewers Association voting member brewery owners or serve as brewery executives are desired.

The seeming off the record board discussions is also a bit weird. And in any event there’s only a few seats open and who knows how the nominees get filtered down to the few selected directors. Where else can you sign up for make change in good beer? Support Craft x EDU and the new Sir Geoff Palmer Scholarship Award for Brewing if those channels best focus your interest. Look at the newly reconstructed Beer Kulture, too. Better still, replicate those efforts locally. And widen them to address what you see as wrong in good beer. Think of how the rubber can actually hit the road. That’s what is happening in my old home town of Halifax where a brewing collective is being created:

Grant said while the art of brewing has deep roots in African culture, it can be difficult for Black brewers to get their foot in the door…. “To have such little representation is kind of reflective of the greater problems that are within systemic racism.” The collective, in partnership with Halifax’s Good Robot Brewing, has released a new pale ale called Blackberry Freedom.

Fabulous.

Fight! Once you have your focus, go for it. It could be the tax changes in Britain which have pitted old good beer v. new good beer. It could be the move to ensure re-openings are accessible for all. Oddly perhaps, for some it might even be the idea that influencers need a seat on the board. Or at least one less prone to be slagged. Beth described a faction of them but it’s hardly shocking to anyone who, like me, comes from the Wendy O. Williams *** generation. And, in any case, I like to think of the Polk, as illustrated, as my nearest and most familiar example. He cuts a sometimes fleshy dash, gets the samples, promotes the breweries and has made a name for himself that far exceeds the diameter of his backyard pool. Frankly, I am convinced we are dealing with the secret nephew of the indisputably alluring Telly Savalas. It’s not what I do but it’s what he does, what they do – and, for better or worse… or worse than that, it ain’t going away given the ease of entry and low cost to the brewers. But just be aware of what you are dealing with.

Write! And after all that, whatever your interest – write what you see, not what you think wants to be heard and certainly not what you are told to write. This is true:

I have been complicit in the deifying of a few, perhaps deservedly in some cases. It’s a tough call, because I believe great work deserves to be celebrated, but pedestals have a habit of sticking peoples head in the clouds.

Be clear – it doesn’t mean that we stop asking brewery owners questions so much as we ask the proper question. Then… cross reference it with a few discrete calls to employees, former employees and the pubs that are supplied. This is actually the growth area for beer and brewery writing as so little proper inquiry is actually being made. Whatever you do, don’t bother with the same old tired topics. Yes, you’ll likely be ignored by the legacy interests… but that’s the point. You’re offering the shock of the local and new as you see it. Or just the personal. Which is creating the future we need. Like Alistair did in his piece “Carolina Pilsner” just yesterday – the sort of thing you can’t read anywhere else than on a good old self published blog.

Whew. There. That’s it. What a week. Next week might be worse. I’ll be back to let you know. But if you are sick of my take on all this, look for more voices. Check in with Boak and Bailey most Saturdays, plus more at the OCBG Podcast on Tuesdays and sometimes on a Friday posts at The Fizz as well. And sign up for Katie’s weekly newsletter, too. Plus the venerable Full Pint podcast. And Fermentation Radio with Emma Inch. There’s the AfroBeerChick podcast as well! And have a look at Brewsround‘s take on the beer writing of the week. Not to mention Cabin Fever. And Ben has finally gone all 2009 and joined in with his own podcast, Beer and Badword.

*See below… err… no, now see above… umm…
**Remember: keep complaining even as you sign up.
***She was on SCTV when I was in high school forty years ago, for God’s sake! How great was that? Really great.

Your Thursday Beery News Notes For Mid-July

The heat had broken for a bit, we here just having a bit of summer for now but more storms and heat start to roll in today. There. Your weather update. The garden is doing great. Thanks for asking. Peas just about done. Third planting of spinach underway. Elsewhere, things are unhappy in good beer land. Gütbierelandia. People are cranky about this that, and the other. One pub in Cornwall, England even put up an electric fence to protect the bar, as excellently illustrated above. We all know why it’s like this and it almost pains me to mention it. Gütbierelandia ist traurig unt launisch. But that is all I do in this here weekly round-up, noting the week’s zeitgeist once again through sifting clues scattered on these information highways. That’s what I do. And what did I find this week? Unhappy people.

First, Stan gave me a bit of a zing in his post about the future of beer writing:

Blogging allows writers to distribute words that would not otherwise be published. It is a hard way to earn money. On Thursday, Alan McLeod repeated his pitch for more beer blogging, more new voices. (Suggesting how complicated this might be, his weekly news wrapup included only one link to a personal beer blog, and that one has a corporate sponsor).

Of course, I went to go after him immediately on social media but then, as the blood red rage abated four seconds later… I realized he was right. Look at this list of beer blogs and notice how few are beer blogs.* And he was perhaps more right than even he realized, as I went on a’ commenting that too much quality beer writing started chasing a few trade writing bucks leaving only impecunity, edited-in samey banality, semi-heroic but years late taking of obvious stances, culminating with a drought of good personal writing related to the experience of beer. So different from investigative reporting.** I don’t know if there is any hope of a revival. I don’t share his (or Boak’s/Bailey’s) hopes for e-publishing given that’s been around for yoinks. Folk just need to write more and forget about the money. There isn’t a future in it. Never has been. Be like Kurt say. Click on the thumbnail.

Tales of Covid abound. How to have a gentlemanly BBQ is explored in what might actually be a parody. And the New York Post reports that teens are dressing up as mask-wearing grandmas to try to score alcohol. This from UK sugar makers Ragas may serve as a good benchmark from here on out:

Lockdown also resulted in the closure of on-licensed premise businesses such as pubs, bars, event venues and restaurants, with these accounting for 62% of alcohol consumption in the UK in 2019. As a result, demand for casks and kegs beer fell sharply. Larger breweries that have canning and bottling lines were able to ride this out. Regional, micro and craft producers that rely purely on keg and cask sales, however, did not have this option, and instead were forced to shutdown indefinitely.

Covid tweet of the week: “The waiter served tapas in a hazmat suit…”

And Jeff in Beervana considered how the pandemic is going four months in and makes this interesting observation about the Times Before Now:

The arrival of seltzer and FMB was actually a warning sign, signaling exhaustion with the rather baroque shape beer had taken. People wanted an uncomplicated buzz. All that excitement and energy buoyed a product that was, in volume terms, not actually growing. If a year-long pandemic saps consumers’ interest in going out for ten-dollar pints, if they seek refuge instead in simpler, cheaper beer, what becomes of those halcyon 2010s? Will beer still be fun?

Now, consider this and tell me Jeff is wrong:

Kombrewcha CEO Garrett Bredenkamp is looking to the hard seltzer segment for inspiration as the hard kombucha brand backed by Anheuser-Busch’s ZX Ventures looks to compete in the fast-growing segment.

That’s about seven layers of dumb right there, folks. And it’s all not to mention the less than passive aggressive attitude stuff from breweries. And as Norm noted, what all started with one brewery, Trillium, putting out bad beer in bloated cans what go boom in the night… or the hand… ended up with much comment ensuing when they declared it more of a feature than a bug:

We don’t want anyone to have to clean up a mess and advise that you store these cans in a refrigerator immediately. Refrigerated (38ºF) batch samples that our QA team retains have not burst and upon further testing, we’ve seen no yeast growth from the time of packaging.

Speaking of which almost, elsewhere people (again) are unhappy with BrewDog. This time about the use of the new ideas of others:

Scottish multinational brewery BrewDog has been slammed for allegedly “stealing” marketing ideas… A Reddit user wrote: “Brewdog commissions work or sets fake interviews to solicit marketing ideas, steals them without paying or crediting the contributors. Owner doesn’t understand when people take issue…”

The story does not exactly have solid sources but, you know, who does these days?** I will leave you to your own conclusions.

And this sounds like a reason for a full on boycott, I’d say. #HTKT

In the story of the week and perhaps echoing Stan above in asking the musical question “where have all the good times gone…” Lew Bryson went all universal theory of what is bad, evil and ungood about craft beer today and in doing so slammed (excellently, I might add) the thirty years legacy of the core pre-craft and then craft ethos of having a hate on for the “other”:

That’s what happens when there’s no hate in your heart. You can work on the things that are based in love: improvement, care, transparency and truth, good flavor, authenticity. Craft beer has that, in plenty, but damn, we keep fighting about it. If we hadn’t made such a big deal about what craft brewing wasn’t…we wouldn’t have had these big fights when craft brewers decided that they were going to blend, and brew with corn (and donuts!), and put beer in cans, and make light lagers.

Oddly, this reminded me of the efforts of eight or more years ago to have craft take on 20% of the market by 2020… which is where we are now. If we are honest, any movement towards that goal was only going to achieve it by adding bulk non-craft quantity like Yeungling and also allowing Sam Adams to stick around well after the stale date. What it might have in common is that head scratch as to why US craft finds the has needed to be so… so… so macro. Ah, the path not taken…

Which leads us right into the next tale, on the question of the governance of the Brewers Association itself and in particular people calling for the resignation of head honcho, Bob Pease. As I mentioned last week, I found the mind boggling level of remuneration a bit… mind boggly. Now, care of a podcast interview with Andy Crouch, things have shifted to the lack of diversity and complacency with members’ bigotries in the BA itself. What exactly does the actual small hardscrabble brewer get for his or her membership dues anyway? Suits. But your own suits!!! Then even Andy got heat for asking the questions. Or is it “caught heat”? Yowza. Yet… the idea that a Euro-sort interviewing a Euro-sort will not lead to greater understanding of the lot faced by non-Euro-sorts is compelling.

Best non-covid tweet.

Finally, there was one break in all the pent up unhappiness. Some good news in Boak and Bailey’s review*** of Lars’ new book on “being Lars and finding kviek was there just waiting to be found”:

Lars’ subject matter was, until recently, the kind of stuff of which footnotes are made. Here, commercial brewing of the type that dominates globally is the footnote, or at least the over-familiar postscript to a much longer story that is rarely told.

I’d buy it based just on that one review but… bought it already.

Remember – keep writing and tell us what you see. Be brave. Do it! Make Kurt proud. And check in with Boak and Bailey most Saturdays, plus more at the OCBG Podcast on Tuesdays and sometimes on a Friday posts at The Fizz as well. And sign up for Katie’s weekly newsletter, too. Plus the venerable Full Pint podcast. And Fermentation Radio with Emma Inch. There’s the AfroBeerChick podcast as well! And have a look at Brewsround‘s take on the beer writing of the week. Not to mention Cabin Fever. And Ben has finally gone all 2009 and joined in with his own podcast, Beer and Badword.

*What’s a blog? Start with Scripting News.
**…not so much…
***Sweet reference to They Might Be Giants, too.

Thursday Beery News Notes For These Shortening Days

OK. Going to share a little something. I now really like the idea of just getting past 2020. There. Said it. Unless 2021 is worse. Like “human farming alien invasion from outer space” worse. That’d be bad. Regardless, time marches on and we are now that bit closer to the future than the past. Here we are. The summer of being snaky. Myself, I have taken to buying stuff I don’t need and driving around town once or twice a week, burning gasoline listing to Motörhead. Never sure if having a drink will help or lock in the funk. It’s a weird year. Has anyone ever mentioned that to you? Thought so.

Fine. Now, we might as well jump right back into the Covid-19 observations. Because 2020. Lisa Grimm shared her thoughts on visiting a pub in Ireland this week:

I don’t think I’d chance a busy, crowded pub with a non-family group at this point, but a relaxing meal, seated far from other people, worked well. Obviously this is only going to work for a subset of pubs, and there are no easy answers there, but hopefully this is a small step forward, and COVID-19 cases will continue to go down, allowing more flexibility. But until there’s a working vaccine, it seems like it’s possible, with some sensible precautions in place, to support local pubs and breweries in person from time to time.

And Cookie had some interesting thoughts on reopening as a general matter:

In deciding whether to go back to the pub, I confess to mixed thoughts. Pubs are not necessary, and they are unlikely to be able to provide the type of relaxed hospitality I enjoyed for some time yet. Nevertheless, the regimented hospitality of Perspex, masks, gloved hands, app ordering, disinfected tables and whatnot is something to experience even if it is to report back here how utterly terrible it is. Like visiting a craft brewery tap under a railway arch in a shithole district of a northern city. Something to do at least once just so you can moan about the ridiculous price for poor crap. Imagine being a pub and beer interested person and not experiencing one of the big forced changes to hospitality in a generation and not be in a position to comment from your own experience?

This is good. Because so much drinks writing is written from the perspective of name dropping boostering folk, who seem to mainly want to be palsy with the supposed cool people who run breweries, bars and trade associations rather than to ask the tougher questions,* we often forget that the stuff is bought and consumed by actual people not involved with the trade. And that this is the only part of the chain of economic events that keeps the rest going. Right now that means putting safety first. And while me, I was happy in the haze of a mildly drunken hour at a patio a few weeks back but I am now told my accomplices were not. Quite disturbed by the standards, in fact. Maskless waitress hugs for old customers returning. Yig. We apparently won’t be going back anytime soon.

Startling news out of Scotland as Sir Geoff Palmer recalled the foundation of the Scottish Brewing Archive:

Scottish Brewing Archive: As the late Prof. Anna Macleod and I entered the brewery yard 1977 in Edinburgh, I saw a skip filled with paper. I noticed signatures of brewing giants…Pasteur and H. Brown, so I jumped in the skip and rescued them…this was the beginning of the SBA.

Thanks for that! Records are horribly misleading things in large part because of the huge gaps caused by dumpsters. Or barrel fires. Or mid-1900s home insulation alternatives. Records managers love to ditch what is deemed in the now to be transient. Archivists haaaaate that. Archivists and records managers must have periodic uncomfortably tense arguments at the dinner parties to which hosts unknowingly invite both.

Ray Daniels makes shoes as his hobby. Which is entirely excellent.

I have a personal interest in urban wine making as I like in a city and I grow grapes. So, it was with mucho focus that I latched onto a story by Matt Curtis on a winery based within London… but then read:

“We are a winery, we are specialists in making wine. We are not a vineyard. We know a lot about viticulture, but this isn’t our focus,” he says, as he explains what he feels sets a more traditional, farm-based winery apart from his own. “We should not expect grape farmers to be world class winemakers. Just as we should not expect a grain farmer to be a world leading brewer.”

This has nothing to do with Matt’s role but I don’t know how one deals with the fact that we in fact do expect and celebrate grape farmers who make world class wines. Plus some of the best beer here is made by MacKinnon, a family that farms seed grain. Wine sans terrior, this. I thought it was going to be a story about urban grapes for urban wine like this story out of Paris in 2018.

Then, this week, Lars posted this picture of an ancient drinking horn and a Twitter chat ensued about the nature of the beast in question. I am on team bear… which is natural as we apparently descend from berserkers:

Along with the general form, teeth, snout, small ears, claws, sturdy arms and slight hump on the back, the stumpy tail pointing downwards also indicates it’s a Eurasian brown bear. Someone could argue that it was a fighting dog with clipped ears and a docked tail but I wouldn’t.

Stan gave us the heads up to this sorta egg-head study of yeasts in a scientific journal which has this fabulous and entirely correct conflicts statement up front:

We declare a financial interest in the success of the breweries associated with the authors of this manuscript. No direct funding from these breweries went into the research herein presented beyond the production of the beers sampled. Otherwise, we declare no competing interests.

Would that the world of trade beer writer were so clear. Anyway, the real point is Stan’s reference to the question of the Ballantine yeast creation myth at page 11 of the study:

The history of the American brewing strains as told by brewers originates from just a handful of breweries. The Chico yeasts are specifically thought to originate from a ‘house-strain’ of the Sierra Nevada Brewing Company’s isolate of BRY-96, which is sold by the Siebel Institute. BRY-96 itself is thought to originate from P. Ballantine and Sons Brewing Company, which started in 1840 in Newark, New Jersey. The strain has since been distributed to a large number of breweries and yeast propagation companies.

Being the author of a book on the subject, and as Craig noted in detail here, the story of Ballantine started well before 1840 and passed through Albany. In Albany for the two centuries prior to Ballantine showed up, brewers pretty much used surplus brewers yeast. Not sure why it was ever considered particularly historically stable or special other than just being tasty.**

Remember: it’s a total vile dumbass move to refer to genocide to sell your sucker juice. Others not pleased. Boycott worthy move. Doubling down doesn’t help. Update: unbelievable thickheadedness.

There you are. July. Who saw that coming? Keep writing and tell us what you see. Be brave. Do it! And check in with Boak and Bailey most Saturdays, plus more at the OCBG Podcast on Tuesdays and sometimes on a Friday posts at The Fizz as well. In their latest episode, Robin and Jordan are showing signs of losing it from da ‘Vid… or they just really have an odd sense of geography and time. Never mind! And sign up for Katie’s weekly newsletter, too. Plus the venerable Full Pint podcast. And Fermentation Radio with Emma Inch. There’s the AfroBeerChick podcast as well! And have a look at Brewsround‘s take on the beer writing of the week. Not to mention Cabin Fever.

*Like “why?” or “really, you don’t think that’s really frigging stupid to refer to Srebrenica and all these other horrific events to explain how you are in a sales lull?”
**TL;DR version? Page 12: “[W}e suspect that the Ballantine strain is not the literal genetic ancestor…”

Canada Day 2020 Is Here And That Means… Beer?

I jumped out of bed in such a rush this morning, all a giggle. It’s Canada Day! On a Wednesday!! I knew I had to post the picture of the two guys – Larry and Neil according to their name tags – drinking American beer that I’ve been posting sorta unknowingly on Canada Day for something like a decade and a half. Mainly for their bow ties. I love those bow ties.

I will smoke ribs today out in the backyard for a small do at the neighbours within our bubble. But that’s a bit American, too, isn’t it. I’ll slather on CNY sauce on the stuff. But other than that, not sure what I’ll do. Fly flags probably. But not too near the BBQ. Gotta be safe. And not really in a jingoistic manner. A good mix. Maybe a beer but, you know, it’s a workday tomorrow. Oh – and write the Thursday links. I’ll do that. Even though there is nothing much to report on I have to do my duty by all you all… see, hmm… Canadians don’t really even say that. Hmm…

This is obviously a bad year for it all. But we are now closer to 2021 than to 2019 so even in this stagnant funk, things move on. Enjoy your Canada wherever you are. Have a modest amount of beer. Not too much. There’s work tomorrow. Perhaps a Zoom meeting.

PS: “Oh, Canada” for those requesting in the comments.

The Thursday Beery News Notes For The Time Of Reopenings

Odd thing, openings. Last weekend here in Ontario I was at a favorite outdoor patio. I sat with my back 12 inches from someone else’s back, separated by non-medical garden latticework. Not like the space on offer at Chateau Stonch, above. No, the server wore no mask. The sign said we were to have sanitized ourselves before coming and going. It was great. But we have not had community spread in out city and region. So were they – was I – irresponsible? Dunno.

These concerns are the central topic of the week in beer land. Well, there does seem to be an odd whisper from pro-am editors about the need for pro-am editors and the Toronto… umm… World Beer Club… err… Cup* is having it’s closed set of non-accredited tasting notes aggregated somewhere. But no one really notices. It’s all about the patio this week – and should one stay or should one go. Consider this bit of wisdom from another UK pubby person:

I’m gonna give the flag shaggers a couple of weeks on the piss before I open my place.

It does rather get to the point, no? There will be a number of approaches to being a demanding consumer in these new times. Perhaps as many as there are US states, going by the available data. Boak and Bailey have offered some thoughts for the thinking fan of drinking in pubs round there way:

…we think it’s a no-brainer for pubs to share their risk assessment, or at least evidence that they have done one. It’s a really good way for them to reassure customers that they have thought about everything from a customer and an employee perspective.

Exactly. Making sure folk know what to expect allows the consumer to make the decision. While some go on about “community” it’s important to know that too often that means do what you are told. No sense in that these days. And, if we are being honest, this is one of the best ways to get folk back in the habit of liking what you offer:

Remember, if you have any @BohemBrewer lager in your cellar, we’ll send complimentary fresh replacements for your re-opening on #July4th – get in touch today.

Retired Martin has been visiting the outsides of pubs. He may well be ready. Robin’s not:

Hey, still don’t feel good about going to a bar or restaurant during this pandemic because it’s kind of clear that we’ve done nothing and are all out of ideas so we’re just going to muscle through! That’s a really bad idea!

Elsewhere in the world of alco-health news, helpful thoughts from NPR on how to tell of your new relaxed standards due to Covid-19 are affecting your health:

Despite the lack of dine-in customers for nearly two and half long months during the shutdown, Darrell Loo of Waldo Thai stayed busy. Loo is the bar manager for the popular restaurant in Kansas City, Mo., and he credits increased drinking and looser liquor laws during the pandemic for his brisk business. Alcohol also seemed to help his customers deal with all the uncertainty and fear. “Drinking definitely was a way of coping with it,” says Loo. “People did drink a lot more when it happened. I, myself, did drink a lot more.”

Aside from matters of health, Jordan has taken on the role of critic in chief when it comes to a very odd bit of jingoistic marketing where macro in Canada is appropriating craft:

Great. How long will it take you to find people who want to give up their licensing rights and product for that process? Is it immediate? “Oooh, who do you, the public wanna see in it? Let’s create awareness for something happening next Wednesday?” Horseshit.

I like this question, too, in relation to the degree of actual “jing” in the jingoism:

In the interest of transparency, how many Canadian jobs were shifted from Molson’s Toronto office to Milwaukee’s this year? I heard 200.

Elsewhere, macro-owned Camden Town in England appear to be similarly offering to assist some as they kick others in the shins. As Le Protz noted:

Other brewers, not bankrolled by a global giant, can’t afford to do this….

It’s happening in Belgium, too. But, the good beer world being what it is, some get cold feet apparently when principle rams up against future prospects.

As someone who became an “Esq” master at a certain age, who holds a LLM in addition to the LLB and also (don’t tell anyone) is a lapsed Master Mason, I suppose I should be concerned even though I ain’t really if it all fades away, like this:

The Court of Master Sommeliers is getting rid of the word “master” in common practice. It’s typical for master sommeliers to be referred to as “Master” followed by their last name, but the prestigious wine organization is changing that in an attempt to make the wine industry more inclusive.

Just to be clear, I would never call someone “Master” based on a wine course. And you needn’t worry about calling me that either. Unless your a Mason… because we know what happens when you don’t… but we can’t talk about that, can we.

Street toast!

A quiet week. But it is now summer. Remember. We made it through spring 2020. Live goes on even if we are not sure what sort of life it will be. Keep writing and tell us what you see. Don’t wait for another to tell you and for God’s sake, don’t wait for the pro-am editor to approve. Be brave. Do it! And check in with Boak and Bailey most Saturdays, plus more at the OCBG Podcast on Tuesdays and sometimes on a Friday posts at The Fizz as well. And sign up for Katie’s weekly newsletter, too. Plus the venerable Full Pint podcast. And Fermentation Radio with Emma Inch. There’s the AfroBeerChick podcast as well! And have a look at Brewsround‘s take on the beer writing of the week. Not to mention Cabin Fever.

*I’m so confused…