Category: Craft Schismists

Now It’s March And These Are The Thursday Beery News Notes

Well, it’s March. Finally. From the last crop out of the garden until now I wait every year for the return to the best nine months of the year after the unreal times that are December followed by the garbage months of January and February. No, it is always all about March with me. March, March, March. And… it’s been -16C outside in the mornings. Perhaps I missed anyone mentioning it… but Canada sorta sucks sometimes. Speaking of sucks, I love Retired Martin’s photo essay on Sheffield’s Queens Hotel as shared above.  I know the feeling. What else is out there? Let’s see.

In more local news, Forbes magazine has an article on breweries led by women in Africa – including one in Rwanda with an eastern Ontario twist:

Josephine Uwase and Deb Leatt number among them as brewer and chef, respectively, at Rwanda’s Kweza Craft Brewery. Like Nxusani-Mawela, they have gotten their share of coverage, in part because Kweza is Rwanda’s first brewpub; in part because Beau’s All Natural Brewing Company in Ottawa has very publicly supported Kweza with fundraising and consultation…

Less locally, for my favourite “craft in outrage!” story of the week we go to the waters off Argentina:

The owners of the three breweries in Mar del Plata, which had teamed up with a diving school for what they described as a first-of-its-kind months long experiment in deep-water beer making, were left mystified, and heartbroken, upon discovering on Tuesday that the barrels were gone. “I started crying,” said Carlos Brelles, who runs the Thalassa Diving School in Mar del Plata, a coastal city five miles from the sunken ship. “Three or four people without morals destroyed the work of so many people who put in so much effort.”

Heist! The breweries are going to try the idea again. Speaking of unfortunate situations, I have not idea why this was published other than as a submission to a dull interview contest:

5. Did you think it was going to be your most popular beer or did that take you by surprise?

I do not feel that any of our beers have a greater popularity than others. So many are good on their own merits.

Very confused I also was when I thought I was agreeing about his observations on the odd use of the term “badass” and got the thumbs up while he, Mr. B., got another sort of response. All part of the seeing and speaking of things that are otherwise unspoken.

To my east, we learn through error. It’s a principle that Lars illustrated this week as he tweeted out his Kvass making skills:

First mistake. Too much bread, and wheat bread apparently soaks up more water. So from 5l of water I’m left with 1l extract from the bread…

To my less east, I liked this profile of Gloucestershire cider and perry maker Kevin Minchew published in Pellicle this week and not only for the lack of a polished romanticized backstory:

In his own words he was living “hand to mouth,” the traditional farm labourer’s way—working hard, eating simply and drinking the product of the land from his own hands. But he recognised this couldn’t go on forever, so the traditional cidermaking life is having to take a back seat while he focuses on the day job…

To the west, Josh Noel had a great article in the Chicago Tribune this week on facing the conflicts while working in hospitality in these days of Covid:

Bondi hasn’t been out to eat in nearly a year. He doesn’t think it’s safe. So why do his customers go out? Why do they sit there, indoors, masks off, in the midst of a pandemic? He regularly serves people who appear to be congregating outside each other’s pods or bubbles — such as a group of six women who had brunch at Jerry’s one recent weekend. “It’s hard not to have contempt for that, at least from my point of view,” he said. “But I’m a professional and I try to treat everyone as well as I can.”

Down south, Alistair has posted his thoughts on the semi-silly distinction between brown and robust porters according to an ancient BJCP dartboard:

When you look at the 2008 BJCP guidelines for Porter, you’d be forgiven for thinking that the difference between brown and robust was largely based on the side of the Pond your drink came from.

It’s part of his efforts to drink his way into enlightenment upon the meaning of the word in the American context.

Everywhere, there has been lots of slightly worried considerations of purpose or status or something in the beer scribbling world. After all these years of reading, I still see that the best finds the general in the specific, if not the human condition then at least the illustration of a principle or common experience. But everything is not the best. Some is the work of the keen newbie. Some the hobbyist seeking distraction. But that is OK, too. That’s pretty much me. I was thinking about this when I pulled the January 18th issue of The New Yorker and read the article “Is It Really Too Late to Learn New Skills?” by Margaret Talbot and got stuck on this passage:

Thomas Curran and Andrew P. Hill, the authors of a 2019 study on perfectionism among American, British, and Canadian college students, have written that “increasingly, young people hold irrational ideals for themselves, ideals that manifest in unrealistic expectations for academic and professional achievement, how they should look, and what they should own,” and are worried that others will judge them harshly for their perceived failings. 

Better have a chat with my kids. That’s a bit weird but would explain a lot.

Interesting merger and acquisitions news out of India as Molson Coors is selling big time but not in the way that they might have hoped:

Singapore-headquartered Inbrew Holdings Pte Ltd has acquired NortAmerican lager producer Molson Coors’ beer business in India. London based non-resident Indian (NRI) businessman Ravi Deol owns Inbrew Holdings Pte Ltd through privately held Ahead Global Holdings. Molson Coors India Private Limited (MCIPL) is a wholly owned subsidiary of Coors Brewing USA with popular beer brands in India.

And finally, some common sense out of Japan as Kirin finally ditches that joint venture with the military dictatorship that controls Burma:

Brewing giant Kirin said on Friday that it is ending a six-year-old joint venture with a holding company in Myanmar that is linked to the country’s military. The army this week seized power in a coup, detaining the country’s civilian leader Aung San Suu Kyi and numerous other top government figures. Kirin is “deeply concerned by the recent actions of the military in Myanmar,” the company said in a statement, adding that it had “no option but to terminate” the partnership.

No option, eh? Does this mean New Belgium is OK again? Dunno. Probably not.

There. A whirl around the world this week. For more, check out the weekly updates from Boak and Bailey mostly every Saturday, plus more withe the Beer Ladies Podcast, at the OCBG Podcast on Tuesday and sometimes on a Friday posts at The Fizz as well.  We have a new entry from the DaftAboutCraft  podcast. And sign up for Katie’s weekly newsletter, The Gulp, too. Plus the venerable Full Pint podcast. And Fermentation Radio with Emma Inch. There’s the AfroBeerChick  podcast as well! And also look at Brewsround and Cabin Fever. And Ben has his own podcast, Beer and Badword.  And remember BeerEdge, too.

The Thursday Beery News Notes Now That We Are Entering Month Eight

How was this last week for you? I am happy to report I got my hands on a couple bottles of the wonderful Sinha Stout when I was up in Ottawa on my eyelid consult. Did I mention I have one stitch surgery coming up? It’s such a minor adjustment that I find it a bit funny.  With any luck I’ll get some more of the stuff after the actual nip is tucked in a month. Speaking of Eastern Ontario, we are told that this no actual beers were actually harmed in the incident captured in this image tweeted out by the local OPP… aka the Ontario Provincial Police… aka the Official Party Poopers according to the kids.

Speaking of official notices, I received an update… err PR email… from the Beeronomics Society team, a serious academic body looking at the monetary effects of brewing. This was the main bit of news:

…the Beeronomics Biannual Conference in Dublin, Ireland. As you know, the event was planned for Summer 2021 (we were just in the process of announcing dates). However, in consultation with the local organizing committee, we have decided it best to delay the meetings until the first half of 2022. I think we can all agree that a Beeronomics Conference with social restrictions would not be a Beeronomics Conference! 

So, put away thoughts of travel for another 20 months if that was your plan. Also attached to my personal communication was a series of links to papers issued by their membership like this, this and this – Papers in Applied Geography, Volume 6, Issue 3 (2020) Special Issue: Space, Place, and Culture: An Applied Geography of Craft Beer which included this handy disclaimer:

We recognize that craft brewery and microbrewery are defined differently in different countries. In this guest editorial, we use the term craft brewery as a universal term to denote a brewery that produces small volumes of beer and is independently, and in most cases, locally owned.

Conversely, there were a number of academic books on beer listed. The Geography of Beer costs $150. I wish I had the moolah to buy them all.

So… we’ll that’s all handy for present purposes but just don’t tell the US Brewers Association. Speaking of which, BA Bart issued a econo-tweet on the state of certain things based on the graph to the right:

…to me, this suggests Seltzer is showing its seasonality (which got hidden a bit last year with all the growth) and starting to slow from the torrential pace it has been on. AB thinks similar things, guessing it will “only” grow 50% next year…

I dunno. The drop seems to coincide with the bad news about the US economy and the failure to agree upon a stimulus package that would supper average working Joes… meaning they have less of an expectation of survival therefore less moolah to spend on White Claw. But that’s just me. But then BA Bart mentioned another factor that I don’t know if he sufficiently considered linking – not enough cans:

Ball Corp estimates that US market is short 10 billion aluminum cans in 2020. That’s not all beer (soda, other beverage also seeing shortages), but it is equivalent 30M barrels of demand going unfulfilled. Unclear how much of that volume will find a home in other packages.

Unfulfilled. I’ve been there.

Disaster is also on the horizon in Belgium as Eoghan Walsh noted:

Brussels slides towards lockdown – bars closed for a month from tomorrow. “The lamps are going out all over Brussels, we shall not see many of them lit again in our life-time…”

He noted this in response to reading an article in RTBF which I will leave as an acronym on the pretense that I know what it stands for. The article explained new measures announced by Ministre-Président Of Brussels Rudi Vervoort who “confirme la fermeture à partir de ce jeudi 8 octobre et pour un mois.” Included in the closures are:

(i) des cafés, bars, salons de thé et buvettes. Resteront ouverts seuls les lieux où l’on sert exclusivement la nourriture à table; (ii) les salles de fête devront fermer leurs portes; (iii) les clubs sportifs amateurs devront fermer leurs buvettes: les matchs se dérouleront à huis clos pour le “indoor” and (iv) les communes examineront un certain nombre de protocole et mesures à prendre pour ce qui concerne les salles de douche et vestiaires des salles de sport; and (v) l’obligation de fermeture des night shops et salles de jeu à 22 heures déjà décidée précédemment est prolongée pour un mois.

So, it’s not just the liquor establishments but a lot of other things. Frankly, me, I like the idea of rotating lockdowns to disrupt the propagation of the virus but I might be aiming for ten days straight a month. Then there would be both economic certainty as well as a good chance at medical efficacy. Conversely, Scotland. Surprise! But that’s just me.

Glenn Hendry is sharpening his skills. I liked this piece of his about the state of beer here in Ontario and latched onto the importance of recognizing loyalty during these hard times:

Erin Broadfoot, the co-owner and co-brewer at Little Beasts Brewery in Whitby, says loyal customers have been the secret to her business making it this far into 2020. “Lots of people came out at the onset to support us. There were large orders; they were sharing posts and they were telling friends to come out,” she said. “It was an amazing few weeks where we were blown away by our community’s level of support and compassion. But we know that can only last for so long.”

Speaking of Ontario and as reported by Canadian Beer News, take away beer and wine and hard liquor is now part of my forever. If the price point narrows, this could be interesting…

Just to the south, Don Cazentre told the odd story this week of a non-Covid related brewery failure… at least according to its owner:

GAEL Brewing Co. opened (in 2015) as an “Irish-American” brewery, with a focus an Celtic ales like stout, porter and Irish red, plus many of the standards of American craft brewing at the time.  Last weekend, GAEL Brewing closed, permanently… “The failure of the business rests entirely on me,” he wrote. “It was not NY State, Governor Cuomo, COVID-19 or any other excuse. The failure is because of me solely. The market has spoken loudly and they rejected our brand. I have failed.”

That’s harsh but perhaps realistic. The sort of beers I like… the sorts of things I recognize as beer have fallen out of favour. Sign of the times in these sweet tangy alcopop days. Me, I like the sorts of beers The Beer Nut likes even though most of them I will never see. He wrote about fifteen just on Monday. I don’t try fifteen different beers in a month. Not only do we fail to reflect on what The Beer Nut does, The Beer Nut may fail to reflect on what he does not do.

Where is Max? Who is the guy with the accordion?

My pal Beth, who I have never met and may never meet*, has written a fabulous knife twist of an article about the Brewers Association for VinePair, entitled “Not Heard, Not Supported, and Let Down: How The Brewers Association Lost Its Way”:

But to date, Oliver says she has received no funds, no explanation of when to expect them, and no suggested alternatives from the BA. Oliver reached out to the BA via email in March to inquire about the status in light of Covid-19, noting she understood there may be delays. The BA’s office manager, Alana Koenig-Busey*, replied to Oliver, saying she was unable to provide an ETA for grant checks.

That asterisk leads the reader to this statement: “*Ed. note Oct. 6, 2020: Alana Koenig-Busey is no longer employed by the Brewers Association.” Jings! The only quibble I have is the notion that the organization has lost its way. I’ve been mocking it for over a decade.

Stan wrote about the ownership of yeast strains and included this very “Stan found the notes from his writer’s note book because he does that” moment:

Acknowledging the source of every kveik culture is valuable for several reasons, but the suggestion that one might have an “original owner” caused me to remember a story Troels Prahl of White Labs told me a few years ago about fellow Dane Per Kølster. Kølster grows his own raw materials to brew beer in the countryside outside of Copenhagen. He is a founding member of the “New Nordic Beer Mafia” that in 2012 set out to establish a category for beer parallel to New Nordic Cuisine. Kølster headed east several years ago to learn more about traditional farmhouse brewing. In Lithuania, he made beer with a local farmer, and when it came time to pitch yeast they walked to a neighboring farm to collect what they needed. On the way the first farmer told Kølster not to say “thank you” for the yeast. He explained that because no one owns yeast it must be available to anyone and saying “thank you” would disrupt this system.

That is frikkin’ excellent. And in line with Canadian law.** Much interesting comment followed led by Lars. I am on Team Lars, too. Stan, Beth and Lars. With me in nets. We’ll take ya.

Finally, National Geographic ran a piece on Osaka that is surprisingly gritty yet references craft beer:

…I meet up with a local man, university professor Momotaro Takamori, and longtime Kiwi expat Rodney Smith in the Nishinari District, notorious for its homeless population and flophouses, not to mention periodic riots by the area’s day labourers — often targeted at the local police. “This is Japan’s biggest slum,” says Rodney, a food and drink guide, “but it’s still safer than where you or I come from.” We sip glasses of Nishinari Riot Ale at Ravitaillement, a little bar pouring pints from neighbouring Derailleur Brew Works, a micro brewery that employs former addicts and the disabled…

Not your average craft beer PR puff.

There… that is it! Remember there’s  Boak and Bailey mostly every Saturday, plus more at the OCBG Podcast on Tuesdays (this week they shit on Nickelback with the worst attempt of an impression of anyone ever) and sometimes on a Friday posts at The Fizz as well.  And sign up for Katie’s weekly newsletter, The Gulp, too. Plus the venerable Full Pint podcast. And Fermentation Radio with Emma Inch. There’s the AfroBeerChick  podcast as well! And have a look at Brewsround‘s take on the beer writing of the week. Not to mention Cabin Fever. And Ben has finally gone all 2009 and joined in with his own podcast, Beer and Badword. And remember BeerEdge, too.

*Go Beth! She takes shit, deals with it and I like that about her.
**Yes, I have dabbled… and would dabble again if I had to, God damn it!

The Nights Have Gone Cool But Thursday Beery News Notes Go On

Achy. A bit from leaving the window open all night despite the forecast of quite cooler air. And me swimming in the big lake when its no longer quite so warm. Winter is coming. I’ve been in the lake maybe seven or ten times over the last few weeks. How long will it last? I grew up swimming in forest rivers as well as the North Atlantic Ocean back home in Nova Scotia. Lakes were always a bit stagnant by comparison. Folk call that “wild swimming” these days. I just call it swimming. Who knew the big water in the nearby big lake would be so big? Beach sand in the car. Beach toys in the trunk. Battered and beaten and happy am I.

First off, before the snow blows, Retired Martin has taken us on a trek to a pub in a lovely traditional thatched roof village in Devon, the Globe Inn in Beaford:

…turns out to be the most crafty of any place I visited in Devon. Plain but welcoming, a good all-rounder whose GBG credentials are a bit mystifying till you taste the beer. That little fridge on the right (below) was packed full of 10% DIPAs and mango sours…

Last weekend, I listened to a repeat of a short piece on the NPR radio show TTBOOK on the changes for the worse that have been imposed upon Bourbon County Stout through the sale of Goose Island to evil big industrial beer. It was particularly gratifying to see guest Josh Noel demonstrating the “nostril in the glass” technique I have been advocating for for about a decade and a half. Not unrelated but to the contrary, Mike reminded us on Twitter of the upside of the buy-out of craft:

You know when a brewery sells to the big guys and they say that it offers them more resources than they would have normally? This example shows that perfectly. Safe place for customers and their employees continue to have jobs. Just sayin.

Everyone’s favourite Midwest bar, the Olympic Tavern, that they have never visited had a rough bit of bad customer experience this week, something that highlights that during times of crisis some folk place having a beer and a Margarita high up on their priorities. Handled well. Along a similar vein, Pellicle has posted the tale of a Scottish drinking habit that, being Scots, I’ve never quite heard of:

The hauf an a hauf is traditional and modern at the same time. It’s a Scottish cultural institution we can be proud of: a combination in which to luxuriate, rather than down in pursuit of a buzz. The hauf an a hauf is about savouring both, two halves coming together to create something new, whole, and wholly wonderful. 

There must be an alt-tartan reality that excluded the generations before me as the idea that there is some long  pervasive history of buzz avoidance going on north of Gretna Green is news to me. Rather than suggesting it is a tradition, in 2014 TheBeerCast described the novelty in this way:

I guess the bottom line here is what do you want from a hauf and hauf? To get loaded, quicker? A US-style ‘Shot and a beer, Dolores’? Or to give a depth of flavour to each drink? It seems, judging from the conversation, that the way half and halves are being seen is changing, as a newer generation of beer/whisky fans indulge in the practice as a tasting exercise, rather than an end-of-shift exercise…

That makes more sense. That’s more in line with Great-Grannie Campbell between the wars being banned for life – a number of times – from the James Watt pub in Greenock even though she lived right above it. Or more likely because. Then the grandchildren being kicked out when they were sent to get a gill on her behalf.

More currently, Matt noted with some hesitancy the creation of something called the Small Brewers Forum in the UK. It is open to breweries:

The Small Brewers Forum has been formed to protect and preserve small British breweries and those who operate them. We have a successful and strong collective voice and campaign on behalf of our members to ‘fight for fairness’ in the industry. We take our campaigning to the highest level at national government as well as local government and within the brewing industry.

The published material indicates that the “only let small brewers join (sub-10000hL) so I can be sure that they represent what’s good for me without any of the big guys pulling the strings.” This makes a lot of sense to me. The numerical majority of brewers are small and have local markets. Their issues are very different from regionals and big craft. Here in Ontario, while there isn’t a second organization after OCB, the membership of that organization represents only the minority of the province’s brewers. Trade organizations structured on “craft” or geography make less sense than those with common issues based on scale.

In the ha ha dumb dumb news item of the week, Budweiser was caught echoing Eco*:

On Friday, the company wrote, in a now-deleted tweet, about two of their brands, Budweiser and Bud Light. “Reject modernity, embrace tradition,” the tweet read, telling consumers to enjoy the original beverage over it’s lower-calorie counterpart. Pictured were the sleek, modern-looking Bud Light can, along with the classic designed Budweiser beer. However, the seemingly simple message raised some eyebrows. One Twitter user, Joshua A.C. Newman, pointed out the origins of the text for the ad. “Are you deliberately quoting the first two elements of Umberto Eco’s 14 elements of Fascism?” he responded to the since-deleted tweet.

There’s that concept of “tradition” again. Calling card of the casually ahistorical.

And, as recommended by Andy, I signed up for the beer newsletter by David Infante – and was pleased to find out it was also a blog. There are a lot of beer blogs holding themselves out as online beer magazines and newsletters these days. It’s a bit sad that self-publishing is that little bit needy that it needs to hide itself behind odd labels and a thin veneer of exclusivity. Anyway, his latest blog post “Hire me, White Claw” caught my attention primarily as it confirmed what I should have known – this year’s trendy cooler White Claw is Canadian!!!** While Jordan mentioned it in passing in his recent post he did not hit me over the head with the fact. Never had one sip myself. Nope. So virtuous I am.  Plus I have Pickled Green Bean Clamato for that.

Stan has been telling tales again – this time about new hops being named and brought to market:

By announcing a name for the experimental hop previously known as HBC 692 the company signaled she is her own brand. “We were getting very significant pull (demand),” said Jason Perrault, CEO and hop breeder for Yakima Chief Ranches. HBC is a partnership between YCR and John I. Haas. “We’ve seen the impact it can have in a beer. Unique, but appealing. It was just time to give it its own identity.” The name, Talus, is a nod to the talus slopes found in the Yakima Valley. She is a daughter of Sabro, the hop formerly known as HBC 438 and commercialized in 2018.

I’m not a hop spotter myself, preferring to drink and think about beer once made but it is interesting to see how in the hop trade these sorts of things matter. Mr Stange even admitted to having been aware of the name (before the name was released) by way of  an embargoed press release – which made me wonder if new shoe lace tech also comes with embargoed press releases. You should also sign up for Stan’s newsletter Hop Queries to really keep up. It’s a blog he sends to you monthly by email.

Finally, Jeff posted a post on Wednesday about the brewing volume stats coming out of the Oregon Liquor Control Commission so far in this very odd year:

The Oregon Liquor Control Commission tracks the taxable barrels sold by Oregon breweries in Oregon. I’ve been watching to see when the June report would drop, because that will give us six months of data to see what kind of violence COVID-19 has done to breweries. The upshot: it’s been bad, but maybe not as bad as we might have guessed back in March. Thirteen of the top twenty breweries were down from this time last year, some substantially. But overall, the top 20 breweries were only down 2% from the same period in 2019.

While that is an average that is great news. If I could go back to myself five months ago, in the middle of the beginning of the stress of what was to come, and say “don’t worry it’ll only be 2% off” I’d be ecstatic. Now, it’s clear that it is an average and some are suffering more than that but for an economic snapshot that’s a pretty sweet picture.

In news of the ancient, Merryn gave me the heads up about a weekly web event put on by EXARC, “the ICOM Affiliated Organisation on Archaeological Open-Air Museums, Experimental Archaeology, Ancient Technology and Interpretation”:

Historical-archaeological Beer Brewers unite! We meet for a chat, this Saturday, 20:00h CET. It’s free, it’s open access and for anybody with a serious interest and / or experience with historic, archaeological craft brewing, anywhere in the world.

You sign up, too! Now!! I may be mowing as that’s mid-afternoon on the best day of the week. The heart of Saturday afternoon which is prep time for the heart of Saturday night.***

Here’s an interesting bit of news. An Albertan laboratory ran a study of beers entered into an awards judge-y thing to see if there were patterns in award giving outery:

The Raft Beer Labs analysis, published on its website, showed a few trends among medal-winning beers. Fresher beer was more likely to win an award. Medal winners were more likely to have a dry-finish than non-winners. Award-winning beers also tended to be clearer, with less turbidity than non-winners. Medal winners were also found to have lower free amino nitrogen levels and tended to be slightly higher in alcohol content than their target. The analysis also showed that both winners and non-winners were less bitter — measured in IBUs, or International Bittering Units — than the listed level, and both winners and non-winners had some microbial contamination, from wild yeasts or bacteria.

Interesting. Clearer, stronger and less bitter beers were preferred. The opposite of trendy low-alc murky hop bombs the blogs and micro blogs and photo blogs and podcast blogs and multi-author blogs are all talking about.

Finally, I am not sure I understand the point of this story. Why care about a brewery that many have written off? Why write and publish “Founders continues to defend its corporate culture”?

Done! For more of the good stuff but from a different view and in a range of blog formats, check in with Boak and Bailey most Saturdays, plus more at the OCBG Podcast on Tuesdays (listen as they shit on Belleville this week!) and sometimes on a Friday posts at The Fizz as well.  And sign up for Katie’s weekly newsletter, too. Plus the venerable Full Pint podcast. And Fermentation Radio with Emma Inch. There’s the AfroBeerChick  podcast as well! And have a look at Brewsround‘s take on the beer writing of the week. Not to mention Cabin Fever. And Ben has finally gone all 2009 and joined in with his own podcast, Beer and Badword.**** And BeerEdge, too.

*I know – excellent, right?
**Which is sorta like saying “Soylent Green is people!” in some circles.
***Yup.
****The greatest Great Lake is obviously Lake Ontario as it contains all the other Great Lakes.

Your Mid-August Beery News Notes For A Thursday

Wow. I thought last week was dull. Not much happening but it’s mid-August, right? Starting out this week’s drafting I wondered how I’ll fill the page. That’s sorta like any August, right? It’s not the pandemic, right? Not at all. Right? To the right is an image that popped up on Twitter which I liked so much I bought the same hat. Maybe. Remember: winter is coming.

What is up? USA Today published an article on the state of racial diversity in brewing in America this week. It got a fair amount of attention, including weirdly stated attention, for what it stated but I find it as important that it was published where it was published. USA Today sits in hotel lobbies and piled next to the door in gas station convenience stores when you travel the interstates. It is lightweight and cheery and has a lot of things called info-graphics. Yet it is pretty specific in the specifics:

Just 1% of craft brewery owners were Black, the survey found. There about 60 Black-owned craft breweries out of more than 8,000 craft breweries in the U.S. By comparison, that survey found that the population around breweries was about 12.2% Black. The U.S. Census lists Blacks as accounting for 13.4% of the population.

Along those lines, GBH has published three pieces on racial discrimination on craft this week. Beth, the named editor, mentioned this passage in Part II by Toni Boyce:

A community excluded from craft’s evangelical crusade can’t seriously be expected to carry on the industry’s message or inconvenience themselves to support the industry that excluded it, let alone convince others to do so.

I mention this in particular as it connects in my mind with another reality pointed out by Josh Noel (published along with the rest of his book) that a goal in forming the Brewers Association in around 2005 was to cope with the separate – and not all savory – identities being expressed in micro brewing at that time and to form one message of one semi-plastic community.

Matt published a helpful commissioned guide to current understanding of what IPA is. Of course it’s riddled with the normal quibbly inaccuracies but, unlike most matters related to beer expertise, it actually acknowledges that it’s riddled with inaccuracies. Because beer expertise is about intentions, right? And desires. And not admitting. Anyway, because it’s self-aware its a very good guide to current perceptions:

For now I want to provide you with my own personal list of IPA styles, developed by analysing existing style guidelines published by the Beer Judge Certification Program (BJCP) and Brewers Association (BA) and then adding my own whimsical spin on them. I have used US definitions rather than those developed by UK bodies such as CAMRA and SIBA as I feel these are the most up to date and accurate with regards to what is actually being brewed in terms of IPA specifically. 

This is good. There are a few styles missing, of course, but that’s quibbles. Pre-craft* macro IPAs still exist. Beers like Harpoon IPA which were sometimes called NEIPA before NEIPA. And beers like Keiths IPA which are macro lagers but which are also somewhat popular. And Deuchars. What the hell is that, anyway? And North America has almost 180 years of continuous autonomous IPA brewing history.**  But these are quibbles. As is a snapshot of what the marketeers are making you believe these days, it’s great. Play Ron’s game, too!

I might be more sympathetic to this effort to raise awareness about greenwashing published in Forbes if the brewery were not owned by a firm that supplies a murderous military dictatorship.

Josh Noel*** published the story of that darling of that past brief era called “craft” – Goose Island Bourbon County – in this the year of pandemic:

The Bourbon County show must go on. Exactly how it will go on during the coronavirus pandemic is unclear. But as it has for the past 10 years, Goose Island Beer Co. will release its flock of barrel-aged Bourbon County beers the day after Thanksgiving across Chicago and beyond… But if the COVID-19 pandemic persists into November — which seems likelier than not — those crowds may become a public health hazard.

Of all the things that aren’t worth it these days, somehow a beer release event is very low on the list yet also very high on the list. Like: (i) who would go… (ii) and who would go? NowhuhImsayn?

Jeff complained and complained in a piece he published on the craft era Franken-glass curiosity that is the IPA glass by Spiegelau:

According to designers, the elongated snout-like bowl creates an aroma “cannon”; the Michelin-man bubble-ridges at the base agitate the beer into further aromatic heights. Curves can be nice, but these are jejune—they don’t flow naturally, but rather bulge foolishly like the barrel on a 1960s toy ray-gun.

I again remind the most careful readers that the whole thing was a bit carney as the glass is just a relabeled existing design with a few ml more in volume. Racket. Better to use a jam jar.

For some reason, the Brewers Association is keeping data it has published related to Brewery opening and closing hours private, available to the membership. Unnecessarily Masonic. And I should know! I expect it is similarly a bit pointless as Le Bart may have been foreshadowing. Kinda comforting to be excluded, too.

Well, that is it. OK but no award winner. Hah! Who needs awards? For more of the same but different, check in with Boak and Bailey most Saturdays, plus more at the OCBG Podcast on Tuesdays and sometimes on a Friday posts at The Fizz as well.  And sign up for Katie’s weekly newsletter, too. Plus the venerable Full Pint podcast. And Fermentation Radio with Emma Inch. There’s the AfroBeerChick  podcast as well! And have a look at Brewsround‘s take on the beer writing of the week. Not to mention Cabin Fever. And Ben has finally gone all 2009 and joined in with his own podcast, Beer and Badword. And BeerEdge, too.

*If anyone calls anything before around 2005 “craft” you have to remember and sympathize as they might be a beer expert so, you know, that has to be taken into account. See if you can find a US brewing historian specializing in the 21st century instead.
**The reality is there were at least three coexisting sources acting routes to US micro IPA brewing. So far I have: (i) UK home brewing and brewing encountered on 1970s and 80s personal and professional travels both ways across the Atlantic, (ii) Bert Grant and his Canadian roots and routes in strong hoppy ales, (iii) SNPA as a clone of Ballentine as Foster explained. But don’t be looking to others to tell you that.
***Pour Le Double!!!

The Dog Days Of August Offer Similar Beery News Notes

It’s August. If the barley ain’t in, it will be soon. That’s out the outside world. In inside world news, DSL reposted the image above, the interior of C’est What in downtown Toronto. Does it really pose a problem? C’est What is one of my favourite “waiting for the train home” pubs, as noted 15 years ago and again 5 years ago. I haven’t been on a train for five months. No idea when I will again. But I will.

What’s been going on? I don’t know how to footnote a podcast* or quite a passage from one so all I can do is recommend Andy’s thoughts on the needs for independent reportage of the brewing trade. More meta arose in response to Jeff’s further thoughts on the state of making a freelance living from beer writing:

Many hours in a freelance writer’s life are not occupied by the activities that directly contribute to finished pieces, and a level of chaos emerges from all the other odd work that rattles around, inevitably demanding attention at inconvenient, unexpected moments. Let’s spend a moment unpacking them.

Responses ensued** from many including Eoghan, Maureen, Boak and Bailey and Katie. Me, it’s a mug’s game honestly entered into that often leads to this which leads to this and then oddly this.

Elsewhere, Jon Abernathy reports on the Black Is Beautiful project in Oregon:

I just checked, and the number in Oregon is now 37 on the website, though it doesn’t count Deschutes Brewery, which partnered with The Ale Apothecary (as I mention in the article), so really it’s 38 in Oregon. This is a vitally important project that shouldn’t be ignored. If you see a Black is Beautiful beer on tap, or available in cans, buy it—your dollars will help to fund the necessary change we need to see right now.

Some questions arose over the weekend as to how many of your dollars were actually helping fund change as the differences between proceeds and profits were discussed. But elsewhere real money was gathered: $20,000 and $12,000 for example.

Speaking of gathering resources against the forces of badness, I like this bit of brewing industry legal news. Source Brewing in New Jersey has released a beer called West Coast Troll to help raise funds to help Sawstone Brewing in its defense of the odd threat of an intellectual property legal action brought by one of big craft’s top millstones, Stone:

Here at Source, we do not condone bullying and we are all about supporting small businesses. It’s important to stop and remember how we got here, and how beautiful and life-changing the craft beer community is for so many people. Rising tides raise all ships and our collective focus should remain on sticking together and resisting the corporate bullying often exercised by “Big Beer,” and not on picking on one another. We stand with Stone Brewing in their dispute with MillerCoors, but we firmly support Sawstone Brewing in defending their right to exist.

Class. And solidarity. And Stone as a result has earned itself a FB page rallying for a boycott. Brilliant. Surely completely unconnected was the sudden departure of Stone’s CEO.

Historically, Martyn has told a tale again, this time about Flowers Keg ale in the 1950s and an anti-slaver posse in the 1820s in US Midwest:

Let us begin at the beginning. I knew about Richard Flower because he is an important figure in the history of brewing in Hertfordshire, and I knew he had moved to Illinois to join his son George, who was one of the pioneers in developing what was called the “English Settlement” in the territory, which developed into the city of Albany. But I didn’t know that Richard, who was born in London, had trained at Whitbread…

Health-wise, Evan wrote about alcohol and health claims for Wine Enthusiast:

“Many people are aware of the negative effects of drinking, but drink anyway,” she says. For many, she says, such internal conflict can produce a feeling of mental discomfort. “Reading a newspaper article that states that drinking isn’t that bad after all might reduce this feeling of discomfort.” 

Note: there is still no J-curve.

And filed under very pleasant surprises, while it has not often been the case, I really enjoyed something in Good Beer Hunting. I’ve too often been let down by past cut and paste jobs leaning on too heavily on the published work of others followed by the typical “one the one hand on the other” tepid conclusions. But not this week when Kate Bernot really put the old boot in the Brewers Association. Consider this bit of well deserved finger-pointery:

The BA’s assertion that it will not kick out breweries unless doing so has strong support from other member breweries indicates the organization will not take a top-down approach to eradicating racism among members. Yet experts in the business world have said corporate leadership is especially necessary on these issues.

Among other responses, it got me looking through my own archives and found (then, imagine – tweeted) this gem of days now seemingly long gone:

From the archives: “The Eight Years Reign of Craft Beer Ends” (Jan., 2015) [See this timely thought… => “One of the key PR goals of the Brewer’s Association has been control of the discourse.”] 

Not no more. Good news that story. A bit of spine. Now, if we can just get the guild of pro-am beer editors with empty pantry issues stop praising crappy PR cut and paste sweatshops I might be able to sleep at night. Similarly, the Polk says F the guilds… sorta.

Getting back to the actual life of the actual consumer, the Tand himself wrote about the joys and pitfalls of app service as opposed to table service in the pandemic pub scene:

Our next stop Mackie Mayor had similar issues. If you wanted to only have a drink, you had to sit outside – fine – and use the app – not so fine. This time it wouldn’t download on Android, but it liked Mike’s iPhone. Details required were of the intrusive nature. This took 20 minutes or so again and this time, after a ten-minute wait, decent pints of cask, in proper glasses, were brought. Overall though much more bearable. But not that great.

Not great at all.

Worse? Yes, it could be far worse. Well, there is Cowbell here in Ontario. Check out the second half of the latest OCPG podcast for the details but it’s a bit of an ugly initial mess followed by a PR mess followed by not sure what next… ugh.

Well, that is it. For more of the same but different, check in with Boak and Bailey most Saturdays, plus more at the OCBG Podcast on Tuesdays and sometimes on a Friday posts at The Fizz as well.  And sign up for Katie’s weekly newsletter, too. Plus the venerable Full Pint podcast. And Fermentation Radio with Emma Inch. There’s the AfroBeerChick  podcast as well! And have a look at Brewsround‘s take on the beer writing of the week. Not to mention Cabin Fever. And Ben has finally gone all 2009 and joined in with his own podcast, Beer and Badword. And BeerEdge, too.

*But is a podcast even a podcast without thirty-five “umms” and a dozen snorts? Can’t wait for the new profession of beer podcast audio producers and sound engineers to arise to follow in the brave footsteps of the post-2018 phenom of beer writing editors.
**Oddly, no suggestion that beer writing editors were the solution…

Your Thursday Beery News Notes For Mid-July

The heat had broken for a bit, we here just having a bit of summer for now but more storms and heat start to roll in today. There. Your weather update. The garden is doing great. Thanks for asking. Peas just about done. Third planting of spinach underway. Elsewhere, things are unhappy in good beer land. Gütbierelandia. People are cranky about this that, and the other. One pub in Cornwall, England even put up an electric fence to protect the bar, as excellently illustrated above. We all know why it’s like this and it almost pains me to mention it. Gütbierelandia ist traurig unt launisch. But that is all I do in this here weekly round-up, noting the week’s zeitgeist once again through sifting clues scattered on these information highways. That’s what I do. And what did I find this week?  Unhappy people.

First, Stan gave me a bit of a zing in his post about the future of beer writing:

Blogging allows writers to distribute words that would not otherwise be published. It is a hard way to earn money. On Thursday, Alan McLeod repeated his pitch for more beer blogging, more new voices. (Suggesting how complicated this might be, his weekly news wrapup included only one link to a personal beer blog, and that one has a corporate sponsor).

Of course, I went to go after him immediately on social media but then, as the blood red rage abated four seconds later… I realized he was right. Look at this list of beer blogs and notice how few are beer blogs.* And he was perhaps more right than even he realized, as I went on a’ commenting that too much quality beer writing started chasing a few trade writing bucks leaving only impecunity, edited-in samey banality, semi-heroic but years late taking of obvious stances, culminating with a drought of good personal writing related to the experience of beer. So different from investigative reporting.** I don’t know if there is any hope of a revival.  I don’t share his (or Boak’s/Bailey’s) hopes for e-publishing given that’s been around for yoinks.  Folk just need to write more and forget about the money. There isn’t a future in it. Never has been. Be like Kurt say. Click on the thumbnail.

Tales of Covid abound. How to have a gentlemanly BBQ is explored in what might actually be a parody. And the New York Post reports that teens are dressing up as mask-wearing grandmas to try to score alcohol. This from UK sugar makers Ragas may serve as a good benchmark from here on out:

Lockdown also resulted in the closure of on-licensed premise businesses such as pubs, bars, event venues and restaurants, with these accounting for 62% of alcohol consumption in the UK in 2019. As a result, demand for casks and kegs beer fell sharply. Larger breweries that have canning and bottling lines were able to ride this out. Regional, micro and craft producers that rely purely on keg and cask sales, however, did not have this option, and instead were forced to shutdown indefinitely.

Covid tweet of the week: “The waiter served tapas in a hazmat suit…”

And Jeff in Beervana considered how the pandemic is going four months in and makes this interesting observation about the Times Before Now:

The arrival of seltzer and FMB was actually a warning sign, signaling exhaustion with the rather baroque shape beer had taken. People wanted an uncomplicated buzz. All that excitement and energy buoyed a product that was, in volume terms, not actually growing. If a year-long pandemic saps consumers’ interest in going out for ten-dollar pints, if they seek refuge instead in simpler, cheaper beer, what becomes of those halcyon 2010s? Will beer still be fun?

Now, consider this and tell me Jeff is wrong:

Kombrewcha CEO Garrett Bredenkamp is looking to the hard seltzer segment for inspiration as the hard kombucha brand backed by Anheuser-Busch’s ZX Ventures looks to compete in the fast-growing segment.

That’s about seven layers of dumb right there, folks. And it’s all not to mention the less than passive aggressive attitude stuff from breweries. And as Norm noted, what all started with one brewery, Trillium, putting out bad beer in bloated cans what go boom in the night… or the hand… ended up with much comment ensuing when they declared it more of a feature than a bug:

We don’t want anyone to have to clean up a mess and advise that you store these cans in a refrigerator immediately. Refrigerated (38ºF) batch samples that our QA team retains have not burst and upon further testing, we’ve seen no yeast growth from the time of packaging.

Speaking of which almost, elsewhere people (again) are unhappy with BrewDog. This time about the use of the new ideas of others:

Scottish multinational brewery BrewDog has been slammed for allegedly “stealing” marketing ideas… A Reddit user wrote: “Brewdog commissions work or sets fake interviews to solicit marketing ideas, steals them without paying or crediting the contributors. Owner doesn’t understand when people take issue…”

The story does not exactly have solid sources but, you know, who does these days?** I will leave you to your own conclusions.

And this sounds like a reason for a full on boycott, I’d say. #HTKT

In the story of the week and perhaps echoing Stan above in asking the musical question “where have all the good times gone…” Lew Bryson went all universal theory of what is bad, evil and ungood about craft beer today and in doing so slammed (excellently, I might add) the thirty years legacy of the core pre-craft and then craft ethos of having a hate on for the “other”:

That’s what happens when there’s no hate in your heart. You can work on the things that are based in love: improvement, care, transparency and truth, good flavor, authenticity. Craft beer has that, in plenty, but damn, we keep fighting about it. If we hadn’t made such a big deal about what craft brewing wasn’t…we wouldn’t have had these big fights when craft brewers decided that they were going to blend, and brew with corn (and donuts!), and put beer in cans, and make light lagers.

Oddly, this reminded me of the efforts of eight or more years ago to have craft take on 20% of the market by 2020… which is where we are now.  If we are honest, any movement towards that goal was only going to achieve it by adding bulk non-craft quantity like Yeungling and also allowing Sam Adams to stick around well after the stale date. What it might have in common is that head scratch as to why US craft finds the has needed to be so… so… so macro. Ah, the path not taken…

Which leads us right into the next tale,  on the question of the governance of the Brewers Association itself and in particular people calling for the resignation of head honcho, Bob Pease. As I mentioned last week, I found the mind boggling level of remuneration a bit… mind boggly. Now, care of a podcast interview with Andy Crouch, things have shifted to the lack of diversity and complacency with members’ bigotries in the BA itself. What exactly does the actual small hardscrabble brewer get for his or her membership dues anyway? Suits. But your own suits!!! Then even Andy got heat for asking the questions. Or is it “caught heat”? Yowza. Yet… the idea that a Euro-sort interviewing a Euro-sort will not lead to greater understanding of the lot faced by non-Euro-sorts is compelling.

Best non-covid tweet.

Finally, there was one break in all the pent up unhappiness. Some good news in Boak and Bailey’s review*** of Lars’ new book on “being Lars and finding kviek was there just waiting to be found”:

Lars’ subject matter was, until recently, the kind of stuff of which footnotes are made. Here, commercial brewing of the type that dominates globally is the footnote, or at least the over-familiar postscript to a much longer story that is rarely told.

I’d buy it based just on that one review but… bought it already.

Remember – keep writing and tell us what you see. Be brave. Do it! Make Kurt proud. And check in with Boak and Bailey most Saturdays, plus more at the OCBG Podcast on Tuesdays and sometimes on a Friday posts at The Fizz as well.  And sign up for Katie’s weekly newsletter, too. Plus the venerable Full Pint podcast. And Fermentation Radio with Emma Inch. There’s the AfroBeerChick  podcast as well! And have a look at Brewsround‘s take on the beer writing of the week. Not to mention Cabin Fever. And Ben has finally gone all 2009 and joined in with his own podcast, Beer and Badword.

*What’s a blog? Start with Scripting News.
**…not so much…
***Sweet reference to They Might Be Giants, too.

The Thursday Beery News Notes For When Craft Gets Redefined Again!

Well, it really hasn’t been redefined – by it may as well have been. Tom noticed this image this week:

In this supermarket, cases of hard seltzer dominate the floor of its refrigerated beer aisle. 

Except it isn’t really just hard seltzer. It’s a cheap ass canned booze called Truly made and sold by the promoters at Sam Adams beer, right? Moo. Lah. Well, someone has to have money, right? Not you, of course. You believe there’s no money in craft. I didn’t write my comment back as any sort of serious prediction but if the day comes that the US Brewers Association allow this stuff as “craft” well you heard it here first.

What else is going on that’s a bit unsettling? I find this meme* about your dream job in beer odd. First, when did all the writing about beer become so trade side? Who the hell wants to actually work in beer? Beer is about the sitting and the not working. (Maybe not really paying attention seems to be part of the gig these days.) My dream job in craft beer? Good pay plus high health and safety standards along with job protection. And a union card. Like that is ever going to happen.

Josh Rubin** has a story in The Star on troubles at Ontario’s brewery former monopoly’s retail side:

Molson Coors and Labatt each own roughly half of TBS, with Sleeman Breweries owning a small percentage. In 2016 under pressure from the provincial government, TBS offered independent craft breweries “ownership” stakes without financial obligations, and a place on the board. Jeff Carefoote, owner of Toronto’s Amsterdam Brewery, which is a TBS “owner,” said he hadn’t previously seen a shortfall. “I certainly haven’t seen anything like this since we’ve been owners,” said Carefoote.

There is a suggestion that the retail operation might go away. The main reason E.P. Taylor configured it the way it is now, however, was on the wholesale side. He considered breweries competing on things like trucking costs waste. Smart guy. There’s a dream job in beer I want. I want to be E.P. Taylor.

“Wow. Secrets of the maltsters. c1911.”

In the U.S. of A., C.B.S has done some investigatory investigations on why booze costs a lot:

The first stop: a North Dakota barley farm that has been operated by state native Doyle Lentz’ family for over a century. The grain harvested from the cold northern plains could eventually make its way into a pint of beer or a glass of whiskey. “I make about a penny a beer,” Lentz said. He said it was about the same as what his grandfather made during his time running the farm. “I’m pretty sure if your cost of your alcohol’s going up – probably not happening out here in North Dakota too much,” he said.

Damn. I was hoping to blame the farmers. Lew rightly points out the research seemed to be a bit limited: “[a]ccording to the people in the supply chain, NO ONE is making more money off the huge increases in the cost of a drink at a bar.” Someone is making money. It might be disbursed but follow a few drinks owners and upper staff on Facebook and you get to see the holiday homes you paid for.

Speaking of being co-opted for the benefits of the ownership class, did you notice this floating around social media this week? Apparently BrewDog wants you to go neaten up their shelf displays as if you care? I’d rather stick nails in my eyes that do volunteer shelf stacking like some cheese eating school boy*** just so the brewer can’t require the distributor doesn’t pay for this part of the supply chain job. BrewSuckers.

I couldn’t care less about anti-health advocacy on behalf of brewers… but Martyn does so here is the link.

Jeff wrote about the importance of branding but I am not sure I agree:

Branding and marketing is hard. It requires a global perspective, one that touches on sales, marketing, product development, distribution, packaging—really, it touches every part of a brewery. Done properly, it becomes an integrative exercise that brings these pieces together. The problem is that most breweries don’t want to devote the time to such a big project, and so things proceed piecemeal, and the brand develops in a shaggy dog fashion with no strategic purpose.

See, to me the 10,000 brewery world means that thinking globally is what makes you a BrewSucker. Beer is now becoming like the local bakery. You go there because it’s good. One reason beer and food pairing, that darling of a decade ago, failed so miserably is those paid PR folk pushing it were trying to analogize to Michelin star restaurants. It isn’t. It aimed to high. But a good neighbourhood bakery? Good beer can be that. And branding won’t help if the cheese scones aren’t any good or cost too much.

Mudgie wrote in praise of boring brown beer in support of a few observations by John Keeling like this interesting one:

He also makes the important point that “CAMRA was formed to save the great beer that was being brewed and not to get people to brew great beer.” It’s often claimed today that CAMRA’s primary objective was increasing choice, but in fact this represents an attempt to rewrite history. In the early days, this was definitely not the case. Real ale was felt to be under threat, and so the core purpose was a preservationist one, to champion the beers that were already in existence, encourage people to drink them and spread the word about where they could be found.

Tradition! So sayeth Topol. Speaking of which, Matt was a bit unhappy on the idea of “beer that tastes like beer” but beer that tastes like beer is a valid concept. My point being that “beer that does not taste like beer” might also be a valid concept, just one for others. Not me. Truly.

My hero Jancis was writing about sustainability and wine and noted one particular culprit in this tweet:

Wine producers could make MASSIVE impact on carbon emissions if we communicators could successfully re-educate consumers about glass bottles. Handful of international wine writers travelling by train and boat ain’t going to do it alas…

What is the evil unsustainable practice in craft? (You know, other than the pay, the health and safety standards and the lack of union cards.) I’d say trucking. The idea that we need west coast North American beer trucked across the continent to compete with good local product is weird. Big craft? Big evil craft.

Jordan, who wrote me just today in realtime of a less than charming cider that tasted like pig shit, has again proven the joys of coming into a point in life with a comfortable income and written freely about Toronto’s Rorschach Brewing, unburdened by thoughts of risks he might pose to future gigs, unshackled by obligations past:

It seems to me an interesting reversal of fortune for the Rorschach brand. At the time of launch, the lineup of beers all drew their names from the world of psychological concept. The Rorschach inkblot test itself is designed to reflect the patient’s state of mind; the kind of thing a Hollywood movie might use as signification for diagnosis. The names were in some cases quite clever. Take Icarus Complex: A Double IPA with Kiwi and Lactose, named for a condition in which spiritual ambition is thwarted by a personal limitation. Ah, but a man’s reach should exceed his grasp, or what’s a heaven for? I don’t think much about Browning these days, unless it’s Maillard.

Again with the Maillard! BANE!!!! Otherwise, another excellent outing.

A tankard from Alchester (43-200 CE).

And finally, Lars found a lady in Chuvashia, Russia with yet another unique strain of brewing yeast and spoke of his work:

Just normal searching. Helps to know the Russian for “village beer”. Push absolutely every contact you have, over and over and over, until eventually someone helps you out. In this case, colleagues at work, and the Chuvashians I visited in 2017.

Neato. I went a hour to my east today to a cafe to drink my favourite beer, Bobo, and the brewer walked in. Sorta the same thing. Right? Sorta.

Well, that is enough for me.  For more, check out Boak and Bailey most Saturdays, plus more at the OCBG Podcast on Tuesdays and sometimes on a Friday posts at The Fizz as well. And sign up for Katie’s weekly newsletter, too. There’s the  AfroBeerChick podcast now as well! Plus the venerable Full Pint podcast. And Fermentation Radio with Emma Inch. What else? What indeed.

*pronounced “me me” as that’s what they really are all about.
**aka Canada’s Josh Rubin.
***…Gotta get up and take on that world…“

The “Here’s Your Hat – What’s Your Hurry, January?” Edition Of Beery News Notes

There is nothing I like about January. It starts with the worst holiday in the year and ends with ice five inches thick covering every corner of your property. Usually. It’s actually been a warmish winter with only a couple of sharp snaps into the -20C region. But it’s still January so I hate it. This week sucked on a number of levels: coronavirus, Kobe and even a cat named Jinx.* Yet is will be March four weeks next Monday. So that is good. Did you need me to explain how the calendar works? Is that why you come here? Probably not. Not that you need me to explain anything else… and yet I do… week after week. Like this =>

I didn’t see much about beer in the news, frankly, but someone forgot they drove onto a ferry near here so it wasn’t all about zippo – but then I did see that photo up there from Lars’s trip to a museum in Oslo:

Saw this in Oslo Historical Museum today: the Tune stone, 4th century. Raised in memory of Wodurid, “the bread lord”, by his three daughters, who brewed the funeral ale.

There is more in Wikipedia Norske-style. I can’t read a word of it but it’s still really interesting. I did notice that Norwegian for “log in” is “logg inn” which is really, you know, a bit lazy on their part.

And there was that “the sky is falling!” article on the craft beer industry in what is called our national newspaper… except isn’t really. But I really liked one thing in it, this stat about the US craft beer market:

…major brewers have acquired the equivalent of 7 million to 8 million barrels of production as they purchased previously independent companies and added them to their rosters. That’s a significant shift in a roughly 25-million-barrel industry…

So one-third of craft is now macro.  And macro-craft and Sam Adams is more than half of craft. Which is weird. But exactly as I suspected…

And Beth just had to remind us that we are coming up to the second anniversary of glitter beer which come right before the second anniversary of the end of glitter beer. And she noted the diversity diversion trend applies to craft beer.**

Plus Jordan got some regional state-run media attention this week with his recreation of an 1830s old ale from what was York, Upper Canada but is now Toronto, Ontario:

The recipe was put together from notes in a diary by William Helliwell — the brewer at Todmorden Mill in the 1820s and 30s. Todmorden Mill was located at the bottom of Pottery Road. “The great thing is that all of the brewing details, all the detail that makes the recipe for this beer is sprinkled throughout that diary,” St. John told CBC News. “He’s not recording it because he’s keeping track, he’s recording it because it’s just part of his day-to-day life. He’s really more interested in the girl next door.”

Wag.

And Mudge semi-fisked the stats about UK pubs losses/gains including this assertion of what really is the obvious:

A few years ago, Pete wrote an angry blogpost in which he called racism over the suggestion that had made that, in some areas, the increasing Muslim population had been a major factor in the decline in pub numbers. However, it was pointed out in the comments that this wasn’t racism, but a simple question of fact. If the proportion of people in the population who don’t drink alcohol, especially in public, increases, then inevitably the demand for pubgoing will decline. He later deleted the post, and now accepts the point in his article.

Note #1: quaff…

1510s (implied in quaffer), perhaps imitative, or perhaps from Low German quassen “to overindulge (in food and drink),” with -ss- misread as -ff-. Related: Quaffed; quaffing. The noun is attested by 1570s, from the verb.

Note #2:  -able…

…there are 3 rules that control how the able/ible
suffix is used.
1. In original Latin words, the suffix was -bil- and the vowel was
the thematic vowel of the verb.
2. In new Latin words where the thematic vowel was no longer
apparent, the suffix was reanalyzed as -ible.
3. Words that are formed in English use -able. 

Result: Robin wins.

Yup:

The weird thing about the ‘return of bitter’ narrative is that at no point in the last decade has bitter been remotely difficult to find on sale.

Dr J noticed a person doing a good job:

The beertender at the new spot in Terminal E at CLT is personable AF and knows her tap list back and forth. Just watched her upsell 3 separate parties who asked Coronas/Bud Lights. Beer politics aside, she’s out here doing work and pouring lovely beers in clean glass. Props…

Day Bracey wrote about putting together a fest in Allentown but not that Allentown:

We’re talking Allentown, Pittsburgh, a predominantly black “redeveloping” neighborhood between Mount Washington and the South Side. By “redeveloping,” I mean “pre-gentrified.” They have a coffee shop and folks are actively looking to open a brewery there. Once that happens, the flood of white people will be inevitable and Pittsburgh will have a Lawrenceville 2.0, or rather an East LIBERTY 3.0. What better way to combat this than by filling the streets with 5,000 people who may be interested in gentrifying responsibly, with investments in both the people and the buildings? 

Neato. And finally, Katie watched a cooper bash a firkin and made a tiny movie.

So not all that much news this week. More anecdote, perhaps. Some tableau, even. Mainly maybe mise en scène. If you want more of that and some other stuff, too, don’t forget to check in with Boak and Bailey’s most Saturdays except for last week and weeks like last week, at the OCBG Podcast on Tuesdays and sometimes a mid-week post of notes from The Fizz as well. And sign up for Katie’s weekly newsletter, too. There’s the AfroBeerChick podcast now as well! Plus the venerable Full Pint podcast.

*Note: Googling “Polk” and “Jinx” delivers some weird results, not all of which relate to unfortunate U.S. Presidential luck in the 1840s.
**As we see in diverting misery-level funding.

Your Thursday Beery News Updates For Mid-November

The last of birthdays, anniversaries and public holidays over the last four weeks has finally passed. And it has snowed. Wednesday was as sharp as deepest January at -16C even if it was +8C last Saturday. Five weeks before the solstice. So, I am buried in wool blankets at home this week, covered as soon as I get through the door, hugging the wood burning internet server looking for answers.  Which is where I found the image above, from 1979 when Rocky II came out. It’s from Piccadilly Square in London. Notice the sign for Wards Irish House, mentioned by Boak and Bailey in 2014.  Another report, two years later describes the entertainments:

Wards Irish House. Used to drink there in the ’70’s. Great Guiness with shamrock carved in the head. Once watched a group of people torturing a rat to death on their table top. Great seedy memories!

Conversely, Retired Martin has had a happier experience in his unending pub travels, especially with his visit to The Old Ship Inn in Perth, Scotland which he has shared in a lovely photo essay:

“How are ya ?” says the lovely Landlady. “Thirsty I bet“. Little things make a pub. It was Jarl, of course, a cool, foamy gem of a beer… 

Perhaps somewhere in the middle, Boris Johnson has apparently failed to keep his word, this time related to staying out of the pub until Brexit is sorted:

…the prime minister had claimed he would not drink until Brexit is sorted – with the first phase of the UK’s withdrawal set for January 31. But he failed to show restraint and maintain his “do or dry” pledge after pulling a pint in a Wolverhampton pub… Asked if he would taste the beer, he replied: “I’m not allowed to drink until Brexit is done.” He added “I’ll whet my whistle” before indulging in a sip.

Beth Demmon also told a tale this week – but one with more integrity – about Michelle McGrath, executive director of the United States Association of Cider Makers:

…she hobnobbed with agricultural producers, including a small cluster of organic orchardists operating in the mineral-rich Columbia River Gorge in the rural north of Oregon. They were looking for ways to diversify their income streams, and cider was “just taking off,” according to McGrath. This was the future, she realized. “I just happened to be in the right place at the right time and have the right passion.” 

Speaking of the right place at the right time and have the right passion, the rumours are true! Prague: A Pisshead’s Pub Guide – 3rd Edition is being written! And if you give to Max he might stop hitting me up for spare cash.

The Simpsons on beer and also on beer.

There has been a small somewhat odd protest in England related to Paul:

…bring back Paul! Paul worked at #Beavertown Brewery until he was sacked without reason and without warning. Paul is a well-respected member of staff who always supported his workmates! Reinstate Paul!

Katie is on the case, as usual. She has asked if anyone at all can tell her more about the sacking of a team member named Paul Shaw. Oddly, no deets yet.

In perhaps bigger news, Josh Noel gave the heads up on the swallowing up of the Craft Brew Alliance by Anheuser-Busch. AB now acquires full control of craft brands like Kona, Redhook, Widmer, Omission, Square Mile Cider, Wynwood, Cisco, Appalachian Mountain – making it the largest craft beer company in the United States. Nutty. Diana Barr in the Puget Sound Business Journal explained how this is the end of a process that started some time ago:

Anheuser-Busch InBev owns 31.2 percent of Craft Brew Alliance and agreed to pay $16.50 per share in cash for the remaining shares, the companies said Monday. The deal — which Reuters valued at $321 million — is slated to close next year, pending approval by regulators and a majority of CBA shareholders not affiliated with A-B, officials said. Most of CBA’s brands… already are distributed through A-B’s independent wholesaler network. 

MarketWatch argued that what looked like a premium price might actually have been a bit of a steal given recent stock price fluctuation. Jeff provides a brief boatload of background:

Originally called Craft Brands Alliance, it began in 2008 as a loose partnership with Seattle’s Redhook, which like Widmer had sold a minority stake to Anheuser-Busch, to combine sales and marketing operations. In 2008, it became a single company (called Craft Brewers Alliance) headquartered in Portland. The two companies were of a similar size at that point, but Widmer Brothers soon eclipsed Redhook. CBA had been contract-brewing Kona beer for the mainland since 2001. In 2010 the company acquired Kona outright. It owned a portion of Goose Island and sold it to ABI in 2011. In 2012 it launched a gluten-free brand and in 2013 a cider brand. More recently it began acquiring smaller breweries.

Perhaps as an antidote, a tale of restoration in the form of one last post on a pub in England – and a splendid one from Boak and Bailey who recently revisited The Fellowship Inn at Bellingham, south east London:

It was designed in glorious mock-Tudor style by Barclay Perkins’ in-house architect F.G.Newnham. On the opening day in 1924, Barclay Perkins reported that over a thousand meals were served. Again, check 20th Century Pub for more contemporary accounts of the life and colour of this and other big interwar estate pubs. When we visited in 2016, a small part of the pub was still trading, though most of it was empty and and terrible disrepair…

In happy news, the British Guild of Beer Writers:

…has shortlisted 28 writers, journalists and bloggers in its Annual Awards. The winners in 11 categories as well as the overall Beer Writer of the Year and Brewer of the Year will be unveiled at the Guild’s Annual Awards presentation and dinner on 3 December. Judges read, viewed and listened to some 150 entries which included books, newspaper and magazine articles, both printed and online, as well as blogs, radio broadcasts, films and podcasts.

I was unaware of the three nominees for Guild Award for Best Citizen Beer Communicator but see one writes mainly in Russian and another has a very shouty vid channel. Hmm… are they EU or just British citizens? Frankly, I find the total entry pools of 150 a bit sad comment but there we are. While someone will send out the attack dogs for merely mentioning, as both the BGBW and the NAGBW have placed themselves into the fairly generic good newsy trade journalesqueism niche – aka “beer and brewing industry coverage” – pretty squarely with this years award structure it might be time for a broader garage band level revival of creative and consumer focused writing. But that’s me. Remembering.

Gary takes up the challenge in a pre-facto sort of way and wrote my kind of post – history, beer and law from 1887:

Here’s what happened. A public house in Brick Lane, London was shown to have mixed two beers. One from Barclay’s was – my calculation from gravity numbers in the case – 5.7% abv, the other, a “small beer” from a dealer, only 2.4% abv… The mixing statute prohibited adulterating or diluting “beer” or adding anything to it except finings. The key issue was, did Crofts dilute beer by mixing a weaker beer with a stronger? The magistrate held yes; the appeal judges agreed, although not without some difficulty in the case of one judge.

It’s a start.

UPDATE #1: want a model of how to write about a business from a impassioned consumer’s perspective, look no further than these HATS IN CHIGAGO!!

UPDATE #2: I’ve discovered a new interest: alt forms of beer competition. This week – the curling bonspiel model:

Judging reform: (1) entries only nominated by others, (2) judging by panels with multiple tastings over time, (3) regional play downs leading to multiple progressive winnowing, (4) independent accredited controls. Allows more participation without one shot beers no one can buy.

There… enough for now. I have to go hibernate, to sob quietly for the summer of 2019 that I could pretend was just, you know, taking a break… until now. For further beery links, check out the Boak and Bailey news update on Saturday and then tune your dial to the OCBG Podcast on Tuesdays. And look to see if there was a mid-week post of notes from The Fizz as well.

The First Thursday Beer News Of October 2019

Beer: less popular year after year!

Ah, beer. You ever ask yourself on why you bother thinking about it? You know, if it’s not your last ditch effort to cobble together a career? BA Bart posted a thread on Twitter this week on the latest stats – which seem to be in line with the previous stats. All worth considering, for sure, but there is that underlying personal question that I suppose everyone who reads this blog has asked themselves since their first glass – why do I bother? Knitting bloggers have a way easier answer. Mittens. Knitting bloggers get all the breaks.

Speaking of big stats over time, relatedly and with a similar set of graphs, apparently Russia’s public policy program to reduce alcohol consumption has been… a fabulous success:

In 2018, Russian life expectancy reached its historic peak, standing at almost 68 years for men and 78 years for women. The experience gathered by the Russian Federation in reducing the burden of disease stemming from alcohol represents a powerful argument that effective alcohol policy is essential to improving the prospects of living long and healthy lives.

By contrast, Gary thumbs his nose at Mr. Putin and gives us a portrait of one of my old favourites,* La Choulette, and the under-respected biere du garde style:

It has a full, complex flavour, quite different from the standard conception at least in North America of a “Belgian ale”. The beer is somewhat earthy, dark fruit estery, with malty/caramel tones, and an interesting tonic or “camphor” edge, almost gin-like to my taste. It has no tart notes, and is quite different from a Flanders brown style, East or West.

Before going on junket with others of the cap in hand crowd,** young Mr. Curtis wrote a response to a typical Stone-based blurt a ripping set of tweets on the failure that has been Stone Brewing’s experience in the UK and Europe including this bit of honesty:

They’ve had to sell there entire U.K. brewing operation. Instead of trying to understand their export markets, they’ve attempted to subvert them. And it’s backfired time and time again.

Yowza! It’s all true, of course, but as we know with the stale older monied end of US craft beer – facts are not all they are cracked up to be.

Perhaps related, GBH shared Jeff Alworth’s sharing of the Instagram posting by Baltimore brewer Megan Stone of @isbeeracarb on sad reality of brew house work conditions.  Because I don’t want to know what my kids do on Friday night, I stay away from Instagram so this was helpful.

Beth Demmon has published a wonderfully in-depth piece at CraftBeer.com on brewing while raising a family:

As Oliver, 34, and her generation have children—albeit later and at a lower rate than generations past—more beer professionals are increasingly finding themselves in similar situations as Oliver. Child care costs, lack of parental benefits, and other obstacles mean employees working in the estimated 7,500 breweries across the United States face the potential of their children existing in alcohol-centric spaces.

Now perhaps building upon those last two stories, “scandal” and “Ontario” usually evoke as much shock as the combination of “curling” and “action” but this week the decision of Ontario Craft Brewers*** to attend and post on social media about a government PR announcement which included standing with a certain Member of Provincial Parliament (“MPP”) due to his past and presumably present day quite intolerant positions. Ben Johnson I believe was the first to point out the glaring problem:

For an organization that has made public overtures to women in their industry, the @OntCraftBrewers looks pretty hypocritical here posing for photo ops with a kid who said he wants to make a woman’s right to choose what to do with her body “unthinkable in our lifetime.”

Brewers issued social media statements: Muddy York, Bench, Sawdust City,**** People’s Pints, Manantler. There are others. It made the news. And there was some unhappiness that the associated larger event got tarnished.  Some didn’t comment. Jordan posted his thoughts on the naturally resulting trade backlash this way:

The OCB’s leadership is actively undermining its own credibility. They have lost two members this week in Block 3 and Manantler and may well yet lose Muddy York. Their largest members are backpedaling faster than I have ever seen them and while I would like to think that this would be a wake up call to them, I just don’t believe it. I think they believe this will go away because this is an emotional response. 

Disastrous decision. In other key conservative political news which might be related, have a gander at British Cabinet member Michael Gove recently pickled out of his skull – not only in public but in the UK’s Parliament.

In more positive news, co-creator of this stuff Max headed out from Prague tracing a line north to try out some actual (and not craft bastardized) kviek in Norway as part of a program to establish partnerships between Czech and Norwegian people who practice traditional trades and crafts:*****

After a hearty lunch prepared by his wife, Julie, Sigurd took us a couple of kilometres uphill to pick juniper and get some alder wood for the next day’s brew. We came back with a full trailer and we sat in the garden to have some home made beer while we waited for our accommodation to be ready. That’s when I had my first contact with a Kveik Ale, brewed with juniper but with a boiled wort. It was amazing! It had notes of green wood and spice that reminded me of Szechuan pepper without the burn, but they weren’t overpowering. It still tasted like beer thanks to its sufficiently muscular malt base.

Wow. And no one adding fruit syrups at all!  Finally, some other beer news in brief:

a. The craft beer hangover.
b. Zwanze Day fightin’ words!
c. Beer powered radio.
d. A trip to JJB’s (aka the formerly Stonch’s) pub.
e. The most blatant example of entitled craft ripping off someone’s intellectual property yet. Oof, indeed.
f. Barry in Germany is now selling his own clinky drinky produce!

Finito! I’m actually sick as I put this together. The autumn school bug. While I recover, I can look forward to expect the Boak and Bailey news update on Saturday and Stan should back on Monday. Check out the OCBG Podcast on Tuesdays, too. Heck, there is so much to follow – what do you need me for… sorry… it’s  just the cold medicine talking… zzzzzzz… zz… zlurp… zzzzzzzzzzzz…

 

*Ten summers ago…
**If I have done anything, my part in making “the junketeer’s admission” a norm has been my proudest achievement.
***Former sponsors of this blog.
****Oddly, even having to explain a former senior staffer wearing their t-shirt as if he was still representing.
*****Sounds actually legitimate!