The Last But Decisive Beery News Notes For January 2023

Already we see an ending. The long goodbye, that’s what I say. It’s been quite a week. I went to a pub in another city with old pals for one thing. A cheery sort of dive. We talked about stuff like, you know, the anticipated next LP from The Cars and, umm, how the Trudeau administration is going, that sort of stuff. Like we would in the early ’80s. We drank beers like we would have then, too. My pals are generally not the fruity sour sort. Good brown bitter ales. Cheery pubs are good as Jeff has been reminding us from Prague. Not sure going to every pub in downtown Dublin in one day is quite the same thing. But I tell you what is the very thing – THUNDER SNOW!!!  Had a blast on Wednesday night. Neato.

Beer! That’s what you are here for. And as B+B highlighted, Cloudwater’s Paul Jones shared a bit of uncertainty about the brewery’s future in a BBC news item and a few people took notice – and quite rightly:

Mr Jones said his Manchester-based company has been in survival mode since March 2020, with high costs, debt, low consumer confidence and post-Brexit trading problems all bearing down on the business. “The cost to me has been pretty bleak,” he said. “I have a heart condition from stress and I feel constantly on the edge of what I can personally cope with.” His thoughts have turned to closing his business “probably once a month since 2020,” he said.

Reporting from the bar room floor, the Tand himself shared that he “had a pint (several) with Paul last Friday and he is really worried about the situation. But he is fighting on, which is good” – others in the thread thought they had as good a chance of getting through these tough times as any brewery. But, yikes… that heart condition.

Spinning the globe that sits by my desk, we see that The Beer Nut wrote about two Bulgarian beers last weekend and, as anyone with an eye on the globe would… I do like me a good tale of Bulgarian beers. Why, just a decade ago I wrote about a matter of brewery crime over there. Anyway, the principled defense of actual gose as against the forces of fruit sauce adjuncts that TBN posted was heartening:

There’s neither nonsense nor novelty in the aroma, just a nice dry saline kick with a suggestion of citric sourness to come. Sure enough, it’s cleanly tart; precise and angular in its flavour. The dry cracker base is a little soggier than I’d like, lacking a crispness it suggests but doesn’t quite deliver on. That does give it a fuller than expected body for only 5% ABV, and onto that they’ve spread grapefruit jelly and a spritz of sea spume. Refreshing? I’ll say. I drank it very cold and it suited it well. And then there’s just enough sourness to keep this sour beer fan happy. Overall it’s a cut above what gets tossed out as gose by most microbreweries these days. Some coriander might have been good too, but there’s plenty of flavour without it.

And TBN also heroically called out the practice of only speaking of beer in positives this week, too. He really needs a government grant to keep on this sort of thing, doesn’t he:

If you paid money for it, and it’s not good, it’s absolutely fair to say “it’s not good”. An out of ten scale is meaningless if you don’t use all the numbers.

On a similar theme but unpacked a bit more was David Jesudason in his excellent newsletter “Episodes of My Pub Life” last Friday:

… this is always going to be their comfort zone if they are from a background that has meant they have never had to work a busy bar or wait on a table. They’re always viewing their glass through the prism of being a privileged consumer – and that’s not to say I’m wholly exempt from this charge.  Many even see their sole role as promoters of the beer industry and, more critically, to tell it like it is is somehow negative – they also often feel the same about racism or any other ism. This isn’t journalism or what we were gifted to do and if people, like today’s interviewee, are clamouring to have the truth told then food and drink writing needs to change…  That’s not to say that beer writers shouldn’t be writing articles that make people yearn to be in pubs but what’s happening in the moment shouldn’t be played out on social media, while journalists bury their head in their hands.

Well said. And, to be honest, it’s like there’s a whole bunch of me circa 2010s out there now. Nice. [No, not Nice!] Over on Mastodon, Andreas Krennmair shared another less nice sort of beer writing issue – doubt:

…ever since I published my Vienna Lager book, I’ve had this awful feeling that no matter what I’d be writing next about, it will never be nearly as good or popular as the last one, and so I have a (probably 1/2 to 3/4 finished) book WIP lying on my hard drive for 2 years now that I occasionally touch a bit once every few months but never make much progress.

Conversely, never one to suffer doubt or at least be held back by it, Ron has been sharing the secrets of his corner of the writing trade by explaining how he interprets brewery logs and other records:

After the overwhelmingly tepid response to my series looking at a Barclay Perkins record, I’ve decided to plough ahead with another style of brewing record. What I call Scottish format because, well, it\s the type of record used by most Scottish brewers. And a few English ones, too. Such as Boddington, for example… Getting back to the topic, Scottish format records gave their pros and cons. Biggest pro is that you get more beers per photo. This period of Younger’s records have eight beers per double-page spread. Which means you get four beers per photo. Biggest con is that everything is rather cramped and often in tiny handwriting.

OK, enough about writing about writing. How about some bad news about your hobby! The Canadian Centre on Substance Use and Addiction issued a statement this week that more than just two drinks a week was courting an increased level of risk from cancers and other harms and there was a bit of an explosion. Folks went crrrrraaaay-crrrraaaay. It particularly set drinks writer Craig Pinhey off  more than once, especially the two-hour national radio call in show Cross Country Checkup‘s coverage. Sadly, unhappy folk took to flogging the creaky and well discredited J-Curve and ignored that the latest medical advice* that, contrary to popular opinion, alcohol is not good for the heart. The contestants for leading voices in opposition ranged from the quite sensible Dan Mallack who advocated primarily for an overall calculation that balanced joy v. risk to some complaining Uncle Anti who is also against cutting back on sugary foodsmoking, gambling and even seat belts in cars, exercising one might say the Randian** ad absurdum. Such is life… or perhaps the path to an early death. Govern yourselves accordingly.

Returning to lucidity, I just finished reading book at the moment that the very self same Mr. Mallack edited, Pleasure and Panic: New Essays on the History of Alcohol and Drugs,  which canvasses a range of topics over the included essays and I am quite enjoying it. Buy it. He gets paid for such things. I actually referred to it as the “needles and booze essays” which I am glad to say was warmly appreciated. There are a legitimate range of views in these matters as that book illustrates – and it is good to explore them even if you have no intention of necessarily adopting one or another as your own. Me? I balance all joys and all risks along with the duties of life. I’ve had five or six drinks*** in the last ten days but I did go to a pub last Saturday with pals I met around 40 years ago and had a very nice time until the band started up and my earplugs proved insufficient to protect my punk rock ravaged hearing. The group photo shows me with a nice pint of ice water. It was my bourbon chaser.

When I think of those schoolboy days, I have to admit that I had no idea that some children needed to be coaxed to take their cocktails but there you have it… proof! The 1930s ciggie ad right there to the right says – so it must be true! I am not sure I’ve seen the truth, however, in the case of the boringest tale of beer of at least this short years. It continues with an old style Fat Tire handle spotted unloved in an airport terminal. Stan had the final word on that kerfuffle: so many people with so many opinions for a beer so many people abandoned so many years ago.

Albany ale sighting!!!

An odd blip on perhaps an alternative timeline was noticed. Last heard from in April 2022, an unhappiness with BrewDog was revived but to what end I don’t know. The most telling statement is perhaps the last: “…I consider any further acts towards me or my company a continuance of the retaliation against those former workers…” which reminded me of the time when a lawyer of my acquaintance decided to insist on a house deal not closing – and moved into the house himself to make sure that was the case!

Speaking of odd, I had no idea anyone was bothering to be anti-Cicerone. Given it’s a non-peer reviewed, unaccredited privately run hospitality course, I never thought it would worth anyone’s time… but I do respect Jenny so it’s noteworthy that she wrote:

I always find it funny when brewers are the ones who come out so anti-Cicerone — people who put in time to make the beer you brewed as good as it can be the moment it makes it to the beer drinker. If that’s irrelevant, then you don’t see the whole picture.

Fin! Enough!! Now on to the indices. Again I ask… what song should play if this were a movie and you were there scrolling though the slowly building upon this expanding and randomly organized list of beer writing resources on Mastodon** followed by the less reliable glom of podcasts ‘n’ stuff? Could it be this? Yes? Yes, that’s it – for this week…

Boak & Bailey | The B² experience
David Jesudason | “Desi Pubs” (2023) author
Ron Pattinson | The RonAlongAThon Himself
Al Reece AKA Velky Al | Fuggled
Jennifer Jordan | US hops historian
Alan McLeod | A Good Beer Blog (… me…)
Andreas Krennmair | Vienna beer and lager historian
Beer Ladies Podcast | Lisa Grimm and colleagues
Jay Brooks | Brookston Beer Bulletin
Joe Stange | Belgian beer expert, beer magazine editor
Cider Bar | Barry makes Kertelreiter cider
Laura Hadland | CAMRA historian and beer writer
Brian Alberts | US beer historian
Jon Abernathy | The Beer Site
Maureen Ogle | US Beer Historian
Lars Garshol | Norwegian Beer Historian and Kveik Hunter
James Beeson | Beeson on Beer
Carla Jean | MAINER!!!
Thandi Guilherme | Beer Ladies Podcast Co-host
Lisa Grimm | Beer Ladies Podcast Co-host
Rob Talksbeer | Podcaster and Youtuber
Anthony Gladman | UK Drinks Writer
Jeff Alworth | Manna Of Beervana
Northwest Beer Guide | Fairly self explanatory… but not NW Latvia…
Evan Rail | Prague based GBH editor, freelance writer, NYT etc.
Todd Alström | 50% of the Alströms
Jacob Berg | Beer talking librarian

Go have a look yourself. I am up to 750 followers myself. Time and patience and regular posting attracts the audience as per usual. While you are at it, check for more from Boak and Bailey every Saturday and Stan back at his spot on Mondays. Check to see if there is the highly recommended Beer Ladies Podcast. The OCBG Podcast is on a very quiet schedule these days – but it there again!  See also sometimes, on a Friday, posts at The Fizz as well (Ed.: we are told ‘tis gone to 404 bloggy podcast heaven… gone to the 404 bloggy podcast farm to play with other puppies.) And the long standing Beervana podcast but it might be on a month off (Ed.: which I have missed from this list for some unknown reason.) There is the Boys Are From Märzen podcast too and check out the travel vids at Ontario’s own A Quick Beer. There is a monthly sort of round up at The Glass. (Ed.: that seems to be dead now… nope, there was a post on July 25th… in 2022 even.) There is more from DaftAboutCraft‘s podcast, too. And sign up for Katie’s (Ed.: now very much less) irregular newsletterThe Gulp, too. And check out the Atlantic Canada Beer Blog‘s weekly roundup. Still gearing  up, the recently revived All About Beer has introduced a podcast, too. (Ed.: still giving it a few more weeks to settle in and not be as agreeable…) Plus follow the venerable Full Pint podcast. And the Craft Beer Channel this week on Youtube. Plus Fermentation Radio with Emma Inch. The AfroBeerChick podcast as well! And also look at Brewsround and Cabin Fever. And Ben has his own podcast, Beer and Badword (Ed.: …notice of revival of which has been given… still not on the radio dial…)  And remember BeerEdge, too, and The Moon Under Water. There was also the Beer O’clock Show but that’s now gone after a ten year run… no, it is back and here is the linkThe Fingers Podcast has fully packed it in citing, umm, lack of success… as might have been anticipated, honestly.

*World Heart Federation, Policy Brief, The Impact of Alcohol Consumption on Cardiovascular Health”, page 8: “Contrary to popular opinion, alcohol is not good for the heart. This directly contradicts common and popular message that alcohol prolongs life, chiefly by reducing the risk of CVD. The controversy over the role of low to moderate alcohol use and future heart attack relates to inconsistent results among the many studies on the topic. Historically, studies have shown a J-shaped distribution of outcomes. The lowest rates of heart attacks have been in those with low to moderate alcohol consumption and higher rates in those who did not drink or have high rates of alcohol consumption. However, new research has challenged this interpretation by not confirming the J point relationship in Chinese and Indian populations, where alcohol consumption is relatively lower, binge drinking is common and among people less than 55 years of age. Furthermore, there has been heterogeneity in the type and pattern of alcohol consumption in most parts of the world.”
**Clive James, Cultural Amnesia, chapter on “Sir Thomas Brown“: “There have even been outright bad writers blessed by the visitation of a poetic title. Ayn Rand had one with The Fountainhead, and another with Atlas Shrugged: a bit of a mouthful, but nobody has ever spat it out without first being fascinated with what it felt like to chew. Yet if those were not two of the worst books ever written—the worst books ever written don’t even get published—they were certainly among the worst books ever to be taken seriously.
***Fine, yes, I do keep track of a lot of stats…

The Nerve Wrackingly Clever Observations On Beer Culture For January’s Middle-Third

2023!! Here we are knee deep in it already. And my first packets of seeds have already shown up. Dreaming of a feed of that Italian cuke-a-melon, the carosello, is all I’m about now. Let’s be honest – I’m calling this part of the year pre-spring from here on out. Summer, autumn, holidays, pre-spring, spring. Makes way more sense that way. If winter sucks, just eliminate it from the vocabulary. That’s what I say. You. Are. Welcome. Not sure if a new beery theme has coalesced yet this year – other than, you know, the impending total craft beer industry collapse. Things looked a bit wobbly recession-wise in Montreal what with shops closed or quiet, there where we ended up by surprise last week, gifted a short trip by the kids – but I did get to try that there cider without sulfates, at the very busy (good to see) mid-week early dinner sitting at “Au Pied du Cochon” (also really good to scoff.) You never realize how much sulphites trigger histamine flairs until they don’t.

First up this week? Some history for you upon the question of peeing. There is an odd whiff of Ceramics Defense League (CDL) punditry in this article about the use of tiles in pubs in 1930s Australia:

…the emerging awareness of sanitation and hygiene prompted the wider use of tiles as a way to manage germs and dirt. Tiles were easier to clean than plaster and wood. They were also more durable and colourful than traditional materials. These days, the popular imagination might associate pub tiles with piss and vomit, even if the architectural move was more about general hygiene than the dangers of the six o’clock swill. Certainly, a pub with wall tiles was easy to clean, and breweries were keen to play-up the sparkling modernity of tiled bars.

I say “off” as somewhere around here I have a picture of a saloon of the pre-prohibition sort with a urinal trough at the foot of the bar. Or just a mopping out trough… or whatever. Stop kidding yourselves. They were horrible places and you’d all be pro-Temperance, yes you, right there tambourines in hand shouting your favorite Bible verses, if you woke up in the 1890s living next to one, you moderns you. ‘Fess up! One of the oddest thing about the bad old days is that constant desire to polish them up. (Surely great great grandpa wasn’t that sort of pig. He was?!?!)

Continuing of the question of health, I am not sure I need a non-alcohol based route to tickling the old gaba receptors… but someone is working on just that, according to The Times:

Nutt’s idea was simple: target just the gaba, and do so by engineering a molecule that removes itself from the body rapidly and painlessly. By only hitting that one type of receptor, it would avoid some of less desirable effects of alcohol intoxication. By being easily metabolised, it would avoid the less desirable after-effects of that intoxication: a hangover. The result is a substance he calls Alcarelle.

Speaking of technology… consider this and what we have lost. Especially shouting “pick up the phone” to someone else in your house. Best beer marketing campaign ever as far as I’m concerned or at least up there is Beer is Best.

Robin and Jordan are back with a fresh podcast for the New Year with some surprising info on changes in the Ontario brewing scene – including, among other sad recession related news, the end of brewing operations Collective Arts’ Toronto location and the resulting considerations of the ability to run a local semi-autonomous branch with its own life when you are slowly becoming a semi-regional slightly international craft operation during a downturn.

And Martin has shared his New Years Eve in Manchester, picking up the kid with the job. Lovely photos of a ceiling at the Crown & Kettle. “Lordly” ye shall say when ye click on yon thumbprint and look upon the said ceiling yourselves. And, yea, it shall be true.

BREAKING: through his study of stouts, Ron has trampled upon the tender hearts of style obsessives:

These are brew house names. Not what the beer was necessarily sold as. Some brewing records have four beer names across the top, but there’s only really one beer.

Is any of the past true? Is the present? Consider this the* curious tale… of… oh dear… let Stonch explain a bit of the background first:

Curious Brew is grim: a fake, deceptive brand for a decade, then Chapel Down build a white elephant brewery, but soon panic and sell for buttons to a crank. Now they’ll brew Wild Beer ‘brands’ in Ashford. Who cares? I wouldn’t touch any of it. I care about real, honest breweries.

Well, it did sorta get touched but not it seems embraced according to Beeson, J.:

@WildBeerCo brand survives, sold to @CuriousBrewery. Sale includes IP, beer & e-comm biz, but not physical brewery. Some staff inc. Cooper & Ellis staying on. Limited co remains in administration. Investors won’t receive £££ from deal.

So recipes and the website.  The shaking out of the pockets of the departed it seems. Not a buy out, just part of the yard sale. And, speaking of buying junk, it’s all like a mini-version of the 1990’s Filipino Pepsi fiasco but still seems a bit of a pile on… even, you know, for himself of themselves:

Mr Watt said that because it was his error, he had contacted all 50 gold can winners to offer them the “full cash amount” as an alternative to the prize if they were unhappy”. “All in all, it ended up costing me around £470,000 – well over 2 and a half years’ salary,” he added. In his post, the Brewdog boss revealed he now owned 40 of the gold cans. After conducting its investigation, the ASA said it received 25 complaints in relation to three social media adverts stating its can prize was made from “solid gold”.

Elsewhere, Boak and Bailey posted a very interesting and very very true article on the 1955 launch party of The Venetian Coffee Bar, a Whitbread project:

The Venetian Coffee Bar got an entire feature in Whitbread’s in-house magazine, The House of Whitbread, in spring 1956. The article gives us a few details that weren’t in the newspaper reports, including the specific date of the launch party – 6 December 1955. The photos of the launch party are slightly more interesting than usual, too. They show the famously hammy British horror actor Tod Slaughter in attendance, dressed in fine Victorian style, shortly before his death in February 1956.

Tod Slaughter! Note: there are two types of people in beer: people who are capable of honest critical reporting on obvious things** and those unable to admit to external reality.*** Andy is also of the first class:

At its best, hazy IPA is reasonably pleasant, sometimes even enjoyable. At anything less than its best, the experience drops quickly. While beer drinking is a subjective experience, feels like many hazy brewers are engaged in an extended gag no one has bothered to call them on.

Let us join hands in a big harmonious circle right now and promise 2023 is the year we stop finger wagging about saying bad things about bad styles and bad beer and just get to speaking some truths about it all. Thanks.

Pellicle has published a travel piece by Rachel Signer (because a big percentage of drinks writing is now really travel pr0n when it isn’t now really well justified social justice writing) which is not the sort of thing I usually like but I do like it very much in this case because it is a well written airy study on being in France and Italy in the spring drinking sulphate-free wine (noted above as something I should explore) and because I am (as noted above) already working on my own “pots and pots of carosello”  gardening plans which means I can’t resist… a chicken festival:

We arrive to the chicken festival. It is outdoors, with a string of lights around a café area. Everyone is greeting each other warmly. People who missed coming here for two years have come out in droves, and all the chicken has already been eaten. We have fried potatoes and sausages instead, and we drink a pleasant local red wine, made with the generic Toscana appellation. I feel incredibly at home with the Pācina folks, although we hardly know each other. But there is between us the bond of natural wine, which runs strong around the world. And, perhaps relatedly, a relief that history didn’t go the other way, and that we can talk of fascism as a thing in history.

Well, err, you may want to check on that last bit.  Speaking of travel, Alistair shifted himself a whole 7.2 miles as he prepared his thoughts on the subject of one particular local of his that is for the locals:

It was on my Christmas Eve trip to Patch that I was stood at the bar, there was basically no one there other than myself, my neighbour, and the general manager, who was tending the bar that day. I’ve know the GM for quite some time now, initially through the local homebrew club, but also as he has been in the beer industry for the best part of a decade I think at this point. The rest of the bar staff know me as a pilsner drinker, and Erik’s Pylon Pilsner is definitely my most regular tipple at Patch, but the GM knew what I was there for, their “copper ale”, which in my mind treads a fine line between dark mild and the kind of darker best bitter you get in the south of England.

Finally, is it true that Mastodon is not taking off as still Twitter slowly continues to decline, acting more and more like Web 1.0 tickertape? Perhaps the curse of social media has been broken  and – oh happy day! – people are now just becoming actually happier in the real world! Wouldn’t that be nice. And so, relatedly in its finality, we come to the credits. Or sorta like the credits. What song should play if this were a movie and you were there scrolling though my continuing tradition (inspired by Boak and Bailey… not stolen from… let’s be clear!) of slowly building upon a shared list of beer writing resources on Mastodon followed by the podcasts? This? Is that the tune? Sure… maybe just for this week…

Boak & Bailey | The B² experience
David Jesudason | “Desi Pubs” (2023) author
Ron Pattinson | The RonAlongAThon Himself
Al Reece AKA Velky Al | Fuggled
Jennifer Jordan | US hops historian
Alan McLeod | A Good Beer Blog (… me…)
Andreas Krennmair | Vienna beer and lager historian
Beer Ladies Podcast | Lisa Grimm and colleagues
Jay Brooks | Brookston Beer Bulletin
Joe Stange | Belgian beer expert, beer magazine editor
Cider Bar | Barry makes Kertelreiter cider
Laura Hadland | CAMRA historian and beer writer
Brian Alberts | US beer historian
Jon Abernathy | The Beer Site
Maureen Ogle | US Beer Historian
Lars Garshol | Norwegian Beer Historian and Kveik Hunter
Carla Jean | MAINER!!!
Thandi Guilherme | Beer Ladies Podcast Co-host
Lisa Grimm | Beer Ladies Podcast Co-host
Rob Talksbeer | Podcaster and Youtuber
Anthony Gladman | UK Drinks Writer
Jeff Alworth | Manna Of Beervana
Evan Rail | Prague based GBH editor, freelance writer, NYT etc.

Go have a look. And also check for more as the year picks up from Boak and Bailey every Saturday and Stan back at his spot on Mondays. It’s no longer the holidays. So, look around and check to see if there is the highly recommended Beer Ladies Podcast. The OCBG Podcast is on a very quiet schedule these days – but it there again!  See also sometimes, on a Friday, posts at The Fizz as well (Ed.: we are told ‘tis gone to 404 bloggy podcast heaven… gone to the 404 bloggy podcast farm to play with other puppies.) And the long standing Beervana podcast but it might be on a month off (Ed.: which I have missed from this list for some unknown reason.) There is the Boys Are From Märzen podcast too and check out the travel vids at Ontario’s own A Quick Beer. There is a monthly sort of round up at The Glass. (Ed.: that seems to be dead now… nope, there was a post on July 25th… in 2022 even.) There is more from DaftAboutCraft‘s podcast, too. And sign up for Katie’s (Ed.: now very) irregular newsletterThe Gulp, too. And check out the Atlantic Canada Beer Blog‘s weekly roundup. Still gearing  up, the recently revived All About Beer has introduced a podcast, too. (Ed.: give it a few weeks to settle in and not be as agreeable… not sure this went very far…) Plus follow the venerable Full Pint podcast. And the Craft Beer Channel this week on Youtube. Plus Fermentation Radio with Emma Inch. The AfroBeerChick podcast as well! And also look at Brewsround and Cabin Fever. And Ben has his own podcast, Beer and Badword (Ed.: …notice of revival of which has been given… still not on the radio dial…)  And remember BeerEdge, too, and The Moon Under Water. There was also the Beer O’clock Show but that’s now gone after a ten year run… no, it is back and here is the linkThe Fingers Podcast has packed it in citing lack of success.

*What is less than a pun?
**To assist in your thoughts, consider what Robert Christgau wrote on the release of The Marshall Tucker Band: Greatest Hits in 1978: “I can distinguish Tucker from the other boogie bands because they favor cowboy hats, but danged if I can tell their albums apart. Country people know one cow from the next, too, but poor deracinated souls like me refuse to be bothered until A&P runs out of milk and r&r runs out of gimmicks. Toy Caldwell does write pretty good songs for a boogie man, though, about one a year to go with the album, and it’s nice to have them all in one place. Pure boogie mythos, with lots of “Ramblin'” and “Searchin’ for a Rainbow,” though I’m pleased to report that there are more miners and, yes, cowboys here than gamblers, a reassuring token of social responsibility. I recommend this album. It’s as near as you can get these days to hearing that old steam whistle.” He gave the record an -A!
***Something of the latter in last Saturday’s round up from B+B: “Don’t let someone tell you that your perceptions are incorrect because it’s all made up anyway.” It’s like a teeter-totter that sentence, isn’t it… as you go back and forth, back and forth. The passage in which it is embedded could be a valuable introduction to an anthology of beer writing in the section headed “Warning!”

The Brief And Very Short First Beery News Notes Of 2023 In Summary

Surprise! On the road. Really. Away. Unexpectedly. Secret location. Sorta. Bit of a gift extending the old vay-kay. Gondie. Outta here. Over there. Gotta be brief. Good thing Stan got to all the good stories already. Go have a look.

Speaking of which, Twitter is getting gondier and gondier. That’s a screen shot of the textless version I was presented with this week. It was flickering in and out like the lights in a ignored back shed during a blizzard. It hasn’t got long to go. So, starting off these very brief beery news notes, it’s good that Chuggnutt, he of The Brew Site fame, has provided a very helpful guide to using Mastodon for the beer ners. Given the instability of the platform (not to mention the platform’s owner), best to get over there and start getting a feel for the place. I am updating the list of familiar faces regularly… daily… surely hourly as you can see far-ish below. And, on your way out, save your Twitter archive like It’s Pub Night did.

Right… happy news about booze… hmm… The son of the late AA Gill, who I loved greatly as a critic and a social commentator, has published a stark tail of alcohol recovery, a family tradition of sorts:

He was AA Gill to his readers but just a gentle old dad to me. He died of cancer on December 10, 2016, at the age of 62. Three and a half years later, I’m making my fateful train journey. Dad once confided in me that on his own train journey to rehab, back in the 1980s when he was a similar age to me, he shared two bottles of vintage champagne with my grandfather as they made their way to Wiltshire, to the clinic Clouds. I’m sure it was a far less glamorous scene than the one I picture, but a fierce new wave of grief swarms over me as I sit there, fatherless, champagne-less and en route to attempt the impossible.

Also quite happy, Jaega Wise on hangover cures.

And I just finished Major Labels: A History of Popular Music in Seven Genres by Kelefa Sanneh and I noted this passage quoted by way of thumbnail to the right? The end of negative reviews explained in context. Sound familiar? Buy the book. Explains seven genres of music: rock, R+B, country, punk, hip-hop, dance, pop. Quite a good read.

Dubai makes booze cheaper if still heavily restricted. Oddest fact?

Expatriates outnumber nationals by nine to one in Dubai, known as the Gulf’s “party capital”, and residents commonly drive to Umm al-Quwain and other emirates to buy alcohol in bulk.

Ron got noticed by Oz Clark. He’s sorta like a kinda big name. And Ron has also been reflecting on the meaning of it all:

Why do I blog? I’ve been at it for 15 years. Most of the beer blogs that were around back then have given up. Around a dozen or so are still active. The simple answer is: because I enjoy it. Would I continue if I had no readers? Maybe. I’m perfectly happy to tootle along with a couple of hundred. Just as well, as I’m unlikely to attract many more with the sort of stuff I post. 
Posting every day can be a chore. So why do it? Partly, just to make sure I keep posting… It may not look like it, but I do have a plan.

Others have also been reflecting. Retired Martin celebrated a great year. Boak and Bailey think things are not as bad as they may seem. Jeff looked to brewers for comforting voices away from the news, data, facts… and then took off on a break. And Eoghan feels beer writing is massively undervalued. Andy is reflecting romantically, looking back à la recherche des brasseries perdu and he also posted this bit of what I would have thought was alarmingly unnecessary advice:

In the new year, do yourself a favor: resolve to order a second pint of a beer you’ve enjoyed. No need to scour the menu for your next beer. It’s cool to take a break and just enjoy a great beer a second time.

Seriously? You needed to be told that?

I missed this by Martyn in last week’s round up, a neatly parallel piece to mine in 2014 on how beers in the past were not all dark and smoky but as often sweet and light due in my findings from the lightest heat source, straw. Martyn confirms they were pale and fresh because of another method of drying the malt:

It was said of the 1st Duke of Beaufort, Henry Somerset (1629-1700), who lived at Badminton House in Gloucestershire with a household of 200 servants, that “all the drink that came to the duke’s table was of malt sun-dried upon the leads of his house”, “leads” here meaning “window sills”. (Thank you, Marc Meltonville, for explaining to me what leads were!) As you can see from this illustration of the duke’s unassuming little home, he had a very large number of windows, and this, presumably, a very large number of nicely wide sills on which to spread malt to dry, protected by the glass from birds and vermin.

Finally, Beth continues her Prohibitchin’ series with a portrait of Amber Nixon of Atlanta, Georgia and her studies in the world of wine:

…that desire to teach ultimately culminated into wine education. After an accidental (and very fortuitous) discovery of a wine professional giving a talk on Instagram, Amber decided to learn more about the distinguished beverage. By 2019, she was hosting tastings for a wine company as an independent consultant, educating guests about the story behind certain wines and the regions they come from, how climate affects grape harvest, proper serving temperature, and everything else an aspiring cork dork might want to know.

That’s all for this week. Continuing a now weeks-long tradition inspired by Boak and Bailey, I am slowly building upon a shared list of beer writing resources on Mastodon:

Boak & Bailey | The B² experience
David Jesudason | “Desi Pubs” (2023) author
Ron Pattinson | The RonAlongAThon Himself
Al Reece AKA Velky Al | Fuggled
Jennifer Jordan | US hops historian
Alan McLeod | A Good Beer Blog (… me…)
Andreas Krennmair | Vienna beer and lager historian
Beer Ladies Podcast | Lisa Grimm and colleagues
Jay Brooks | Brookston Beer Bulletin
Joe Stange | Belgian beer expert, beer magazine editor
Cider Bar | Barry makes Kertelreiter cider
Laura Hadland | CAMRA historian and beer writer
Brian Alberts | US beer historian
Jon Abernathy | The Beer Site
Maureen Ogle | US Beer Historian
Lars Garshol | Norwegian Beer Historian and Kveik Hunter
Carla Jean | MAINER!!!
Thandi Guilherme | Beer Ladies Podcast Co-host
Lisa Grimm | Beer Ladies Podcast Co-host
Rob Talksbeer | Podcaster and Youtuber
Anthony Gladman | UK Drinks Writer
Jeff Alworth | Manna Of Beervana
Evan Rail | Prague based GBH editor, freelance writer, NYT etc.

Go have a look. And also check for more as the year picks up from Boak and Bailey every Saturday and Stan back at his spot on Mondays. It’s still the holidays. So, look around and check to see if there is the highly recommended Beer Ladies Podcast. The OCBG Podcast is on a very quiet schedule these days – but it was there last week!  See also sometimes, on a Friday, posts at The Fizz as well (Ed.: we are told ‘tis gone to 404 bloggy podcast heaven… gone to the 404 bloggy podcast farm to play with other puppies.) And the long standing Beervana podcast (Ed.: which I have missed from this list for some unknown reason.) There is the Boys Are From Märzen podcast too and check out the travel vids at Ontario’s own A Quick Beer. There is a monthly sort of round up at The Glass. (Ed.: that seems to be dead now… nope, there was a post on July 25th… in 2022 even.) There is more from DaftAboutCraft‘s podcast, too. And sign up for Katie’s (Ed.: now very) irregular newsletterThe Gulp, too. And check out the Atlantic Canada Beer Blog‘s weekly roundup. Still gearing  up, the recently revived All About Beer has introduced a podcast, too. (Ed.: give it a few weeks to settle in and not be as agreeable… not sure this went very far…) Plus follow the venerable Full Pint podcast. And the Craft Beer Channel this week on Youtube. Plus Fermentation Radio with Emma Inch. The AfroBeerChick podcast as well! And also look at Brewsround and Cabin Fever. And Ben has his own podcast, Beer and Badword (Ed.: …notice of revival of which has been given… still not on the radio dial…)  And remember BeerEdge, too, and The Moon Under Water. There was also the Beer O’clock Show but that’s now gone after a ten year run… no, it is back and here is the link! The Fingers Podcast has packed it in citing lack of success.

 

The Very Last Thursdays Beer News Of 2022 Plus The Year’s Best Beer Writing… According To Me

So. The snows did come. And the winds really blew. We were between municipalities with declared states of emergency from the 23rd to the 26th. That’s the view out the front of nearby Matron Fine Beer, announcing on FB that they were shut on Boxing Day. The 900 km two day round trip was not taken. We stayed in.

According to me? Isn’t that what all this all is all about? Over the now near twenty years of doing this, I have only had one question: why? It’s a hobby, I suppose. And maybe a bit of a diary. But, looking back, it’s also an archive. A searchable database that’s become a bit of an encyclopedia. Maybe. As I may have mentioned, I dove back into reading quite seriously this year. I’m on my fiftieth book . Unfortunately, ruining my pace, I’ve been reading it for a month that fiftieth book. Cultural Amnesia by Clive James. It’s an excellent 850 page set of 120 bios of the greatest or most compelling writers or most murderous political figures selected – and to a certain degree cross referenced – by James to explain where we all were as of 2008 when the book was published.

Bear with my side track. Please. It’s turned into a bit of a one household dinner party week and I’ve been dipping in and out of here and the book. See, the book is effectively an encyclopedia of criticism, written by a great critic effectively criticizing modernity. It’s oddly organized. Alphabetical. Not in terms of the chronological order of those in the bios. Good to obey the chronology. And not ordered in terms of the progress of thought or even the order that James encountered those thoughts.  Each bio from A to Z has a sketch of the life, an aphorism by the subject and then a critical examination of the thought.  I am struck over and over by my own stupidity in light of all these thoughts. Never heard of more than half of the people included in the 120, let alone their century defining aphorisms. But it has given me a bit of heart, you know, related to the importance of careful critical reading – even when the care is taken with reading about the tiny odd corner of society filled by the beer trade… something that isn’t really quite at the same level as James’ concern, you know, when compared with the question of humanity’s serial genocidal tendencies.

So… is this place all an unintentional oddly organized niche encyclopedia? Perhaps a compendium. Or a gazetteer. Could be. A diary of thoughts. Can’t really say. Not done yet.

The Last Weekly News Notes

As you think about all that, there were a few note worthy things happening in the world of beer over the quiet holiday week. First, Ron held his annual Christmas Day Drinkalongathon which, given the six hour time difference, was not going to happen in my house:

I’m starting with the traditional bacon sarnie and fino sherry. I usually go on about the saltiness of the whatsit complementing the brinyness of the whatsit. But today I’m just enjoying stuffing some greasy meat into my gob, whilst slowly easing my body into the boozy assault that is to follow. Yum…

Other odd forms of praising Christ’s birth were noted. Getting dressed up and drunk on Boxing Day is a thing in Wigan according to the UK’s Daily News which published a photo essay with scenes like this:

People stumbled home and had a rest against buildings and on pavements after a big night out at the Boxing Day annual fancy dress night in Wigan. A couple of traffic cones made sure a woman was okay as she sat on a pavement, a man wearing a dress – Freddie Mercury style – was shouted at and pushed away outside the Popworld nightclub by another woman. Several grabbed a takeaway to soak up the booze as they awaited taxis.

And the far more sedate Tand himself has written up a recent visit to Northern Ireland and spotted an interesting fact about his first pint:

Our choice? Well, Guinness of course – you have to for your first at least don’t you, and this was a fine example of what I regard as a pretty unimpressive beer. I had learned before I went there that the gas mix in Ireland – presumably including the North too – is a 75/25 nitrogen to CO2, whereas in GB it is 70/30, making for a less creamy and smooth pint than in Ireland. 

More western hemispherically, Josh Noel noted the continued odd economics of Goose Island Bourbon Stout and its shift to the discount shelf in the same year of issue, tweeting:

The more I think about it, the simpler it all seems — it’s just way overpriced. All of it.

Yup.****

Conversely, we still have these sorts of PR plugs that everything is A-OK despite the brewer closures:

“It used to be that the kind of the craft, or the weird, let’s call it, beers were just for fringe, like people who maybe that identified themselves as being different,” said Christine Comeau, executive director of the Canadian Craft Brewers Association. “But now we’re seeing that craft beer, it’s appeal has gone beyond just kind of the fringe drinkers way more into the mainstream. I think that the brewers themselves are making beer that’s really approachable, I think consumers are recognizing they enjoy the variety of tastes and flavours and the experience of it.” Comeau said over 1,100 craft breweries operate in Canada, and that number is continually growing.

Not sure how much – if any – of that is fully true. But we could say that about so much, couldn’t we. About so much.

Best of 2022

Let’s get to this. Right away. Errr.. first, some context. As I sat down at the very outset, to begin compiling this my list of the best in beer writing for 2022, the Argentine and then the French national anthems played on my TV.  Full of anxiety and a bit excited, I wondering if I should have a drink at 10 AM on a Sunday to steady the nerves. Why? Not because of the World Cup Final that’s playing in the background. No, it’s because Boak and Bailey have just published their own insanely detailed 2022 best in beer writing blog post. Holy frig. The effort. I quickly realized that there was no point of replicating the work they have put in. Any efforts I make will be half assed in comparison. I knew this so immediately mainly for one reason – because I am always half assed in comparison.

Still… I will not be totally deterred by excellence in others. It’s not my way. As you know. Mirroring B+B, I will say that I too drew from a wide range of sources this year, the quality of which differs. I am a reasonably generous patron of Pellicle which, for me, really stands alone in terms of quality and focus.*** It’s the NPR of beer writing.  Other sources still are out there competing and providing genuine surprises, sources like the few remaining newspaper columns and articles, the business tied publications like Ferment and the Good Beer Hunting (now more and more a travelogue borg) along with the fading phenomenon of podcasts, the obstinately stalwart blogs, not to mention the more resilient of those newer things the hybrid “blog meets pen-pals” that some folk still call newsletters.* Each are in their own way goal oriented, whether commercial or just aspirational. Folk jockeying and seeking their wee thin slice. As they should. Each also has their own editorial slant that affects what’s covered – or, more importantly, what they won’t dare or just couldn’t be bothered to touch (given those goals I mentioned – not to mention the guiding hand of travel association funding.) But, knowing all that, it all still forms a pretty vibrant if messy scene that seldom fails to offer a good selection of reading week after week. We should all be grateful for that.

Fine. Let’s get to it. What’s the winner? Let me perhaps first further preface my extended preamble with this one caveat: I also can’t see myself studying stats per author as B² did even if a number of top year-long writing efforts clearly stand out. It’s me, not you. Or them. Is it them? Yes, it’s them. One problem I face when putting them all together is that I don’t necessarily limit my references to articles. I equally mention conversational points made by folk like Lars, Martyn and Ruvani received by DMs, emails and in social media as much as I cite longer posts like those of Ron and of Gary – who has gone to a new level in 2022. The epigram is as valid as the essay but you sure can lose track. It gets a bit messy. And, looking back, how would I even search the stuff given, as I have to admit by way of example, I seem to have about sixteen nicknames for Matthew… Matty C… The Mattimeister 3000.**  Plus, you get side tracked about people. Frankly I find myself fretting over the state of JD-TBN‘s liver and Delores’s patience with every notification of another post. That all being said, counting my fingers and toes, I can confirm that both NHS Martin and Beth Demmon had 12 full standalone pieces mentioned here in this place over 2022. By comparison, Eoghan had only six mentions – but all from his fabulous, his epic perhaps even heroic series A History of Brussels Beer in 50 Objects which started in mid-2021 and carried over through the first half of 2022. Each of those mentioned above (and, sure, others) in their own way are tied for most attention grabbing beer writer of the year… well, hons ments.

So the best thing in beer writing this year… quite specifically? I think I was pretty clear back in November when I wrote about David Jesudason’s “Please Don’t Take Me Home — How Black Country Desi Pub Culture Made Football More Diverse” in Pellicle, stammering and stumbling my thoughts:

… calmness in the moment. There are none of the burdens² ³ ⁴ … in this piece like all the best sort of writing there is also a person and a moment. The scene being seen. I’d be at this pub regularly… if it was in my town… and if Canada has the same sort of pub life… which it doesn’t.

You can click through for those footnotes. No need to repeat the dreary comparisons. Everything fails a bit in comparison. Just have a look at his essay itself. Simple and generous. Proud and objective. Lovely. One thing I suspect is going on here is that David Jesudason came to beer as an already established good writer, having credits including at the BBC and The Guardian. Beer, being a fairly low value topic in terms of both substance and reward, doesn’t usually  attract the more established version of the good writer – even if it’s been a strong training ground. I expect the addition of social justice issues and authors to the curriculum over the last few years has probably made helpful space for interesting  views – especially when that spot is not appropriated by the non-marginalized.***** Even with this shade, welcoming more skilled writers and their writing is great, the best shaking up what is otherwise a pretty fixed format.

Finally, best new thing in beer writing generally? Wait for it. Mastodon. Yup. I was thinking about it earlier this week when Maureen Ogle was lamenting the death of her #BeerTwitter community. I replied…

…the values are different. Were you writing when the RSBS feed was discontinued? Maybe 350 beer sites updated daily and you got a notice by email. Its death caused a reordering. New readers. If Twitter is now dying, is another new reordering is happening? Here, you get followers with content. But many beer writers actually stopped writing some time ago too. And new voices have already moved in on the turf. Is a big shift on?

My conclusion… wait for it! Have faith. Just as the death of craft doesn’t mean the death of beer, so too the death of Twitter is not the death of thought… err… and anyway – didn’t that happen with the creation of Twitter? You have to be patient. Mastodon works differently. More carom billiards than 8 ball, more rugby than darts. Hashtags are more important than retweets… aka boosts. Big hint? Follow #BeerWriting and include #BeerWriting in every post. Folks gather. Don’t believe me? Follow #Birding. Happy to help. Questions in the comments will be answered. Fine, maybe this is really a 2023 forecast. Only you can decide if that is or isn’t the case.

One more best? Godspeed Brewing out of Toronto. I bought many a case for home delivery this year. Their Tmavý Ležák 12º is fabulous. For me, now figuring out what being somewhat gluten intolerant means, that’s a bit more praise than I had expected to be able to give.

Finally, the Festival of Beer Links

Think of these as the movie credits. Continuing a now week-long tradition, Boak and Bailey added a new feature to their weekly post recently which I am slowly building upon, too – a shared list of beer writing resources on Mastodon:

Boak & Bailey | The B² experience
David Jesudason | “Desi Pubs” (2023) author
Ron Pattinson | The RonAlongAThon Himself
Al Reece AKA Velky Al | Fuggled
Jennifer Jordan | US hops historian
Alan McLeod | A Good Beer Blog (… me…)
Andreas Krennmair | Vienna beer and lager historian
Beer Ladies Podcast | Lisa Grimm and colleagues
Jay Brooks | Brookston Beer Bulletin
Joe Stange | Belgian beer expert, beer magazine editor
Cider Bar | Barry makes Kertelreiter cider
Laura Hadland | CAMRA historian and beer writer
Brian Alberts | US beer historian
Jon Abernathy | The Beer Site
Maureen Ogle | US Beer Historian
Lars Garshol | Norwegian Beer Historian and Kveik Hunter
Carla Jean | MAINER!!!
Thandi Guilherme | Beer Ladies Podcast Co-host
Lisa Grimm | Beer Ladies Podcast Co-host
Rob Talksbeer | Podcaster and Youtuber
Anthony Gladman | UK Drinks Writer
Jeff Alworth | Manna Of Beervana
Evan Rail | Prague based GBH editor, freelance writer, NYT etc.

Try those folk as, again, we might not have a weekly weekend update this week from Boak and Bailey as we usually see mostly every Saturday and perhaps also not one from Stan at his spot on Mondays. It’s still the holidays. So, look around and check to see if there is the highly recommended Beer Ladies Podcast. The OCBG Podcast is on a very quiet schedule these days – but it was there last week!  See also sometimes, on a Friday, posts at The Fizz as well (Ed.: we are told ‘tis gone to 404 bloggy podcast heaven… gone to the 404 bloggy podcast farm to play with other puppies.) And the long standing Beervana podcast (Ed.: which I have missed from this list for some unknown reason.) There is the Boys Are From Märzen podcast too and check out the travel vids at Ontario’s own A Quick Beer. There is a monthly sort of round up at The Glass. (Ed.: that seems to be dead now… nope, there was a post on July 25th… in 2022 even.) There is more from DaftAboutCraft‘s podcast, too. And sign up for Katie’s (Ed.: now very) irregular newsletterThe Gulp, too. And check out the Atlantic Canada Beer Blog‘s weekly roundup. Still gearing  up, the recently revived All About Beer has introduced a podcast, too. (Ed.: give it a few weeks to settle in and not be as agreeable… not sure this went very far…) Plus follow the venerable Full Pint podcast. And the Craft Beer Channel this week on Youtube. Plus Fermentation Radio with Emma Inch. The AfroBeerChick podcast as well! And also look at Brewsround and Cabin Fever. And Ben has his own podcast, Beer and Badword (Ed.: …notice of revival of which has been given… still not on the radio dial…)  And remember BeerEdge, too, and The Moon Under Water. There was also the Beer O’clock Show but that’s now gone after a ten year run… no, it is back and here is the link!

*I wrote that and just before the first half of the final game (Argentina up 2-0 at 44:19) realized what I hadn’t included – books! Remember beer books? I wonder if I will mention one I really like this year… let’s see… (later… nope…)
**OK, that’s actually a new one.
***…even if it still published a few wowsers like the stunningly revisionist reference to the genocide in NNY against the Haudenosaunee. 
****Remember when people thought “sucker juice” was a dumb mean thing to say? That was great.
***** … and where a bit oddly forced given the history, just fleeting or (worst) leveraged by the crass coat-tailing personal promoters with sticky fingers

The Jing-Jing-Jingliest Thursday Beery News Notes Of All!!

Here we are. Christmas Eve… Eve… Eve… because the 25th is Sunday and that screws everything up. The kid still goes to school tomorrow, which is insane. I am sorta off but not off as there isn’t much happening now a week after even the staff Christmas parties are over. And… there’s a HAMMER OF THOR snowstorm coming tomorrow.  All good.  I’m Christmassy and that is all that counts. Fam’s all here, pressies bought and the tree is lit! I thought I would pull back the curtain and give you a sense of the life at my house at the holidays. KIDDING!!! That’s not my house, that’s “The Chess Players” by Gustav Wintzel of Norway from 1886. Look at that beer! Gotta be a litre glass right there plus the colour is key to the entire painting, establishing the triangle with the contents of that shelf… probably a mantelpiece with the firebox hidden by those rugs. Lovely.

Right off the top, how is this for a graph from the Victim of Math? Click on it for more detail. It’s the Health Survey for England’s data showing how young people there are abandoning drinking – and have been on a steady trend of going clean at an amazing rate of change. It looks like in 2017 less than 25% of women 16 to 24 well over 40%.  The lads are less less inclined but seem to have gone from about 17% dry to 34% so over the last ten years. Don’t know what that bodes other than it bodes something.

Speaking of boding, Jordan wrote the third in his St. Johnian* Effort in the “boding not too welling in Ontario” series this week, the conclusion of which I will ruin knowing it is not the end… not even the beginning of the end… but more like the end of the beginning:

Let’s see if we can recap: Beer is a luxury good by default, and its cost has outpaced wage growth. As established earlier, we’re dealing with the smallest cohort of people turning 19 in living memory, a cohort smaller than any other group younger than 65. Per capita consumption is going down year over year, presumably due to multiple issues including health and lifestyle choices, but also because of decreased relevance due to affordability. Additionally, this is in the face of greater availability in terms of retail purchase locations in the province’s post-prohibition history. 

Add callow youth ditching drinking to that list… Perhaps related, an interesting article in The Times on James May and his pub and the lessons he has learned about the marketplace:

Pubs, for obvious reasons, proliferated in the Victorian era, especially in towns and cities, where they were effectively the communal part of working people’s homes. We know that Ebenezer Scrooge, in A Christmas Carol, “took his melancholy dinner in his usual melancholy tavern”. But pubs don’t need to fulfil this role any more. They are entirely places where we go of our own volition, rather than out of necessity, and they need to acknowledge this. Note how it’s dreary pubs that subscribe to the old thinking, with their mediocre food, crappy karzis and limited drinks lists, that close down. Good pubs, the ones that have readjusted, are doing fine, and we don’t need as many of them as we once did.

What’s that? “Cheer! Give us cheer!!!” you say, gentle readers. Quite so. the ever excellent Evan Rail shared some wonderful Yuletide info about mulled things and spiced things as well as the celebration of wassail:

While the orchard wassail is closely tied to Twelfth Night on Jan. 5 or 6, hardcore traditionalists will celebrate wassail according to Twelfth Night on the Julian calendar, which was used in England until 1752. By that measure, the proper date for an orchard wassail would be Jan. 16 or 17 on today’s calendar. For the sake of convenience, many wassail events are simply scheduled on January weekends. In the village of Hartley Wintney in Hampshire, England, the annual wassail is set to take place on Friday, Jan. 13, with a torchlight procession that starts at the village pub, the Waggon and Horses, where publican Kaesy Steele will be serving a traditional mulled cider.

Do we still care who owns the brewery? I mean, I was sorta making fun of this idea back in 2015… seven years ago tomorrow.  Pete Brown updated the dance card and quite rightly treated craft and not craft as all the same thing:

Many leading craft brands have now been acquired by the giants. That’s just how it is. Now – the ownership structure of the beer industry may be of no interest to you. If you’re already drinking mainstream lagers from global giants and you just occasionally fancy something hoppier, that’s up to you. I won’t judge. However, if one of your motivations for drinking craft beer – or just as importantly, cask/real ale – is that you want to support small, independent businesses, it’s not always obvious whether or not the brand in front of you is the real deal. 

Nice. Just remember that ownership is only half the story. Obligations in law like debt and shareholder agreements have as much or more influence over a business’s independence. Folk that promote their independence suddenly find, upon a downturn, that they are quite dependent. Consider the Case of Mr. Musk.

Now… in history making history, Ron pushed the early edge of brewing records and published in 1805 pale stout recipe.

Here’s proof that Stout didn’t always imply a dark beer. An example of the pale malt analogue of Brown Stout. It’s a type of beer which must have died out early in the 19th century as this is the only example I have. I’ve no idea why it disappeared but it may be connected with Porter brewers moving to brewing only dark beers. The grist couldn’t be simpler: 100% Hertfordshire pale malt. There’s really nothing more to say.

And Liam found a reference to India Pale Ale dated 1824 (proceeded by “West”) and set off a bit of speculation as to its meaning and implications. I would only add that Vassar in the 1830s referred to one of his ales as “South” as illustrated to the left – but I am quite sure he did not create something called Southern Ale.  Just as “style” is useless before it is defined and defined again by Jackson in the 1980s, the further you go back from that, the less meaning categories have. Ideas can’t flow backwards. I suspect that the predecessors to IPA, both eastern and western classes, were the English strong ales named after cities like Taunton and Dorchester and Derby, both evolving and branded according to given marketplace expectations.

It’s that time of the year. No, not just for Ron’s DrinkAlongAThon. The time for lists!! Best wines and Golden Pints. Here are the ten most read stories on Pellicle. Here’s Lisa’s. Alistair of Fuggles has been putting together his “best of” lists including best pales and best oranges to browns. I like the organizational decision he’s made, abandoning illusion for the actual. I suppose he could have gone with viscosity instead of colour. Perhaps in 2023! Jeff of Beervana has gone in another direction and provided us with his favourite photos for 2022. And the Beer Crunchers have jumped ahead with their US craft beer forecast for next year with some refreshing honesty:

Some brewery owners realized that the bigger they got, the more HR became part of the job, when they just wanted to focus on the beer itself. Other brewery owners turned out to be assholes and represented the HR-risk themself. Regardless of the reason, a significant number of breweries are for sale or have been sold in the past year. Some are of great value and truly worth every penny. Others are worth zero, or worse. Expect to see more interesting sales, depressing closures, and everything in between. You won’t be able to keep up and the action already underway.

Note: I had no idea this sort of thing was done:

In February 1961 Guinness paid the London brewer Watney Combe Reid £28,000 to discontinue Reid’s Stout. This was to secure the position of Guinness’s new nitro-keg product – it was clearly worried the Red Barrel keg beer brewer’s stout could be a rival to keg draught Guinness

Finally, Boak and Bailey added a new feature to their weekly which I am going to copy… literally cut and paste… then slowly build upon, too – a shared list of beer writing resources on Mastodon:

Al Reece AKA Velky Al | Fuggled
Alan McLeod | A Good Beer Blog (… me…)
Andreas Krennmair | Vienna beer and lager historian
Beer Ladies Podcast | Lisa Grimm and colleagues
Jay Brooks | Brookston Beer Bulletin
Joe Stange | Belgian beer expert, beer magazine editor
Laura Hadland | CAMRA historian and beer writer
Jon Abernathy | The Beer Site
Maureen Ogle | US Beer Historian
Lars Garshol | Norwegian Beer Historian and Kveik Hunter

Please let me know when you see more to add to the list. I’ll be back next week with my own “best of” post. Not sure if it will be on Thursday or Friday. There’s a long drive between now and then. And bird feeders to fill. Naps, too. May even need to check the lake temperature to see what’s what. You might not have a weekly update from Boak and Bailey as we usually see mostly every Saturday and also also perhaps not from Stan at his spot on Mondays. Still, check and see if there is the weekly and highly recommended Beer Ladies Podcast. The OCBG Podcast is on a very quiet schedule these days – but it was there last week!  See also sometimes, on a Friday, posts at The Fizz as well (Ed.: we are told ‘tis gone to 404 bloggy podcast heaven… gone to the 404 bloggy podcast farm to play with other puppies.) And the long standing Beervana podcast (Ed.: which I have missed from this list for some unknown reason.) There is the Boys Are From Märzen podcast too and check out the travel vids at Ontario’s own A Quick Beer. There is a monthly sort of round up at The Glass. (Ed.: that seems to be dead now… nope, there was a post on July 25th… in 2022 even.) There is more from DaftAboutCraft‘s podcast, too. And sign up for Katie’s (Ed.: now very) irregular newsletterThe Gulp, too. And check out the Atlantic Canada Beer Blog‘s weekly roundup. Still gearing  up, the recently revived All About Beer has introduced a podcast, too. (Ed.: give it a few weeks to settle in and not be as agreeable… not sure this went very far…) Plus follow the venerable Full Pint podcast. And the Craft Beer Channel this week on Youtube. Plus Fermentation Radio with Emma Inch. The AfroBeerChick podcast as well! And also look at Brewsround and Cabin Fever. And Ben has his own podcast, Beer and Badword (Ed.: …notice of revival of which has been given… still not on the radio dial…)  And remember BeerEdge, too, and The Moon Under Water. There was also the Beer O’clock Show but that’s now gone after a ten year run… no, it is back and here is the link!

*Funner if you pronounce it properly – “SinJinnyIn“!

Weeeeeeeeeeeee!!! It’s The Ten Days To Christmas Beery News Notes Post!!!

I can’t figure out if being pressed for time will make these notes this week brief or lengthy. The line “I didn’t have time to write a short letter” which is linked to Mark Twain mostly… but in my mind to Jonathon Swift… but in reality to 1600s French mathematician Blaise Pascal… comes to mind.  See, not only is it Yuletide with all the running around, I had to finish my bridge. One of the reasons the old beer blog and especially historical research leading to more on the old beer blog quieted a bit has been my part secondment to a big bridge project. Well, it opened to the public Tuesday as Fine Balance Brewing of our fair city’s east end celebrated on Facebook with the image above hoping to see a stream of west enders now heading their way. On time. On budget. Huge fun project. Happy to be the guy who wrote the contract and negotiated the deal.

Enough about me… first up, Christmas has beer RUINED for some in Gloucestershire:

Motorists faced delays on a motorway after boxes containing sweets and beer kegs were spilt over the carriageway. Two lanes of the M5 in Gloucestershire were closed after the spillage which also included books. The problem was reported at 06:30 GMT on Friday and lanes 1 and 2 southbound were closed between junction 13 at Stroud and junction 14 at Thornbury.

And things are tightening in other ways, of course, but I won’t add my list to the lists of disappearing craft breweries as B² did last Sat. And even though I expect it would upset one of those passive aggressive reductionist kitten craft mascots who demand that no one expresses opinions… I have to say this is one of the more interesting observations on how bad the situation is situation from John Porter:

The problem, as we both know from Publican Industry Report days, is that new breweries and pubcos arrive in a flurry of PR and excitement, and tend to disappear quietly to avoid unpaid bills and disgruntled investors. Like you, I suspect there’s always a lot of double counting.

Jordan is crunching the numbers in Ontario and the news is also not that good here for the beer industry. Ontarians are getting older on average and newcomers may not all be all that interested in beer. Beer volumes sold have hit the lowest point in 73 years. He uses words like “eerily” and “painstakingly” and “hanging” and “I’m forced to manually” and “irresponsible” and “robust” which seems all very… err… physical… but  the point is not only made but well proven. The arse is out of it all.

The badness reaches out in all directions as these things go sideways. At what point should drinkers rally around with a bit of focus to save the best? And when is it an end or a new beginning?

Real ale fans were saddened to hear of the forthcoming closure of Manchester’s Beer Nouveau… Though Steve Dunkley’s popular tap is no more, the story is not yet over under the railway arch at 75 North Western Street. The space is being taken over by Katie Sutton, the new owner of Temperance Street Brewery. Renamed the Temperance Street Brewery & Tap, the venue will initially open Fridays and Saturdays. Katie works full-time in the NHS, so she is being supported by Matt Gibson of Temperance Street Cider. Both the brewery and the cidery already operate out of the premises and extensive work is not needed.

Speaking of the NHS, Martin once again has shown why private reportage of thing beery are so helpful, this time with a photo essay from his trip to Cologne focusing on Gaststätte Lommerzheim aka Lommi’s. Linger over the images like the one right there. Not all samey pretty beer porn like we see so often. And a brief tale of prowess:

More customers under 30 than over 50, and Mrs RM the only non-bloke, but she outdrank them all. 3 in 20 minutes and we were gone, after admiring the tree outside the Gents (so not quite the Combermere). Honestly, it was perfect, like your favourite Sam Smitha if it wasn’t run with lunatic rules.

It is interesting to see how quickly the discounting of bulk brewery owned Bourbon County is happening this year:

… stumbled upon the below this afternoon. Can confidently say I never expected the reserves and prop to be on the shelf 16 days after Black Friday. Happily took a barelywine and prop and went on my way.

Also interesting to note that one long standing ad placement with Sound Opinions, a US public radio music program out of Chicago, has been dropped. The email read:

We recently learned that we’re losing a significant portion of our funding in 2023. Our long relationship with our major sponsor, Goose Island, has ended due to the shaky economy. We have other revenue sources: a generous grant from the Goldschmidt Foundation, small ad buys, and individual donations from dedicated listeners like you. But it’s not enough to keep the show running at full speed.

If you like music, listen and give. It’s dandy and via Patreon there are a number of bonus features.

The Japanese marketplace appears to have recently hit a particular point of inflection beer-wise-ly:

Beer and quasi-beer sales fell 8 pct from a year before in Japan in November, still reeling from October price hikes, estimates from Kirin Brewery Co. and others showed Monday. Asahi Breweries Ltd. reported a 7 pct drop in the value of its sales, while Kirin logged an 8 pct fall in volume and Sapporo Breweries Ltd. a 7 pct decline. Brewers incurred marked drops in sales of canned products, mainly for household consumption.

Jeff wrote the first “best of list” that wasn’t an unrealistic, purely sample based thing submitted months ago to a mag for the editors to churn upon. He also led up front with excellent context:

Obviously, no one can try all new beers in a year. As all sample groups are, this is highly individual. And, since I do most of my drinking in Oregon, it’s got a lot of Oregon beer. It’s also not exhaustive. I recall a wonderful pFriem Canadian Lager I enjoyed at the brewery, a delicious gueuze from Tilquin I enjoyed at a beer festival in Oslo, a cracking good festbier at Heater Allen, and more. Furthermore, if you think I avoid hoppy ales, behold: this list is lousy with ‘em! I love all beer styles, and it seems like 2022 was a good one for hops.

And Pellicle posted a profile of Glasgow brewers Epochal, sometime past subject within these here weekly notes:

Epochal specialises in barrel-aged pale ales, table beers, Scotch ales, porters and stouts—the latter two having a rich history in Glasgow. The beers undergo an extended dry hop for the duration of their secondary ageing. The mature beer is then bottle-conditioned with a small portion of one-day-old fresh beer, a process employed by one of Scotland’s top 19th-century brewers, the Glasgow-born James Steel. The entire process takes anywhere from three months to a year, resulting in beers you can ponder over, or drink for pure pleasure, depending on your mood.

Is GBH becoming a travel vignette site?

Finally, wrongest quote about the history of beer passed my eyes this week:

For most of the time, intoxication was not the main purpose and could only be achieved to a limited extent, if at all, given that beer had a low alcohol content for most of human history. 

See, to make weak beer you either need to first make strong wort or you have to waste resources to boil way too much watery wort. It’s how it works. If you don’t believe me, ask Babylon. Please do better. If only at this Yuletide.

That’s it! Next week, the best reading of 2022 will be mentioned here as well as perhaps also in the updates from Boak and Bailey we see mostly every Saturday and also also perhaps from Stan more now on a Monday than almost ever! Check out the weekly and highly recommented Beer Ladies Podcast. The OCBG Podcast is on a very quiet schedule these days – but it’s coming back soon.  See also sometimes, on a Friday, posts at The Fizz as well (Ed.: we are told ‘tis gone to 404 bloggy podcast heaven… gone to the 404 bloggy podcast farm to play with other puppies.) And the long standing Beervana podcast (Ed.: which I have missed from this list for some unknown reason.) There is the Boys Are From Märzen podcast too and check out the travel vids at Ontario’s own A Quick Beer. There is a monthly sort of round up at The Glass. (Ed.: that seems to be dead now… nope, there was a post on July 25th… in 2022 even.) There is more from DaftAboutCraft‘s podcast, too. And sign up for Katie’s (Ed.: now very) irregular newsletterThe Gulp, too. And check out the Atlantic Canada Beer Blog‘s weekly roundup. Still gearing  up, the recently revived All About Beer has introduced a podcast, too. (Ed.: give it a few weeks to settle in and not be as agreeable… not sure this went very far…) Plus follow the venerable Full Pint podcast. And the Craft Beer Channel this week on Youtube. Plus Fermentation Radio with Emma Inch. The AfroBeerChick podcast as well! And also look at Brewsround and Cabin Fever. And Ben has his own podcast, Beer and Badword (Ed.: …notice of revival of which has been given… still not on the radio dial…)  And remember BeerEdge, too, and The Moon Under Water. There was also the Beer O’clock Show but that’s now gone after a ten year run… no, it is back and here is the link!

The Laziest Beery News Notes Of The Last 167 Weeks! Honestly… Why?

OK, I took the week off to burn off vacation days. No plan. Sure, I had a few things I could do on a list but I got through that list by about 11:15 am on Monday. Hmm… what to do… what to do… oh, the World Cup is on! I really didn’t plan as I have not been paying attention. Because it’s all so corrupt… that game I played from the elementary school yard until I was 44 or so a decade and a half ago. That the old man played for Greenock Academy, losing to Falkirk in 1946’s championship at Hampden Park. Less fabulously, there I am with my pal in 1986, just over half my life and just under half my body mass ago at the end of a game heading to the tav… I miss those socks. Anyway, so I watched some fitba this week sitting in the basement. Should I have gone to a pub to watch? Maybe. Might still. I love the idea of having a favourite seat for this sort of thing. I had one until twenty years ago in a tavern in my old stomping ground in PEI. I can think of another in Halifax NS maybe 40 years ago. Comfy corners where the shoulders can nestle in. Martin found one, too, the one up there at the Dog & Partridge:

Perhaps I just wanted to sit in my favourite Sheffield pub room.

What else happened this week? Well, first I am not sure why Budweiser thinks beer is something that can be donated as noted on to Johan Roux’s Mastodon feed (with the h/t):

will donate all of the brewed for the to the winning country. It is also expected that the company will sue because of a breach of contract – the sale of beer was banned a few days before the start of the championship. In total, Budweiser will donate tens of tons of beer worth 75 million euros.

And I listened to the Beer Ladies Podcast interview of John, The Beer Nut and I was struck by something. It was one of the best podcasts I had ever heard. Not because of John… or, rather, not due to John or… well, he does sort of giggle, doesn’t he. No, what I mean is that it was so well done technically. A second of dead air between comments was just allowed to be a silence. No one jumping on the other. Nothing forced. Lovely pace to the discussion.

AND… Ray of Boak and Bailey wrote one of the best Patreon essays I’ve read of theirs. A really good piece of writing about realizing his father was no longer at an age when a pub crawl was possible.

I didn’t drink myself until I was 20 which Dad found pretty weird, along with almost everything else about me, I suppose. We always got on but didn’t have much to talk about, or anything to do together other than watch telly. When I finally did start drinking, and got into beer, something clicked. Suddenly, he could take me to The Railwayman’s Club, The Commercial Inn or The Rebel’s Retreat in Bridgwater. There, he taught me to drink ‘properly’: “Blood hell, son – chat chat chat, chug chug chug, chat chat chat!” And when he came to visit me in London, I got to show him the pubs I’d found. (Where he’d often be able to wangle a lock-in.)

Fabulous – and also sad in that way that a rich life is aware of its own passing. My folks passed a decade ago and I can recall the creeping feeling leading up to their deaths of the slow loss of sharing, in my case including soccer games and a kitchen filled with cooking.

Speaking of excellent writing, it is the case that there are good writers who don’t necessarily have much to say. There are also those poorer writers who struggle along working out what are really more interesting ideas.¹ But it is a real treat when the good idea meets the skillful writer like they do in this week’s wonderful feature at Pellicle, David Jesudason’s lengthily titled “Please Don’t Take Me Home — How Black Country Desi Pub Culture Made Football More Diverse“:

Oddly, desi pubs are usually very British in terms of decor; the Red Cow run by Bera Mahli since 2010 (who also worked in Birmid for a short time before he went into the pub trade) has two traditional lounge bars. They can also be reworked to look like an old-fashioned Indian club-style bar like in the Prince of Wales on West Bromwich high street. My 15-minute conversation with Steve at the Red Cow was deeply touching—we hugged—as he’s so passionate about making sure non-white fans are safe during the match, and is one of the many Sikhs who have ensured West Brom is home to one of the most diverse football crowds in the country.

It’s a story that has a lot of commonality with Ray’s thoughts when you thing about it. The only way I can describe the commonality between David’s piece, Ray’s thoughts and the Beer Ladies Podcast interview discussed above is a calmness in the moment. There are none of the burdens.² ³ ⁴ No, in this piece like all the best sort of writing there is also a person and a moment. The scene being seen. I’d be at this pub regularly… if it was in my town… and if Canada has the same sort of pub life… which it doesn’t.⁵ Le sigh.

Ghost of beer scenes past? Eoghan wrote this about an article on Belgian beer:

…I love the classics as much as the next person, and Belgian beer moves more slowly than other places, but there is a world of interesting beers beyond the Trappists and Saison Dupont – brewers/importers, where is your curiosity?

The article in Imbibe mag in part painted a picture of decline, the same one that could have been about brown ale and other darlings of the past shunted aside by craft’s obsession about what was big in, you know, the last six weeks:

Over the last half-decade, Belgian beer’s wattage has dimmed stateside. Saisons have struggled to find traction and comprehension. Local breweries and taprooms have proliferated, negating the need for beer imported from across the Atlantic. To that point, Anheuser-Busch InBev is now producing Stella Artois stateside, and Spencer Brewery, America’s only Trappist brewery, ceased operations in Massachusetts this year. According to a website statement, “The monks of St. Joseph’s Abbey have come to the sad conclusion that brewing is not a viable industry for us.” 

What else is going on? Speaking of ghosts, Jenny P. posted a menu from a Q3 20C US steakhouse chain called Lums Restaurant and, well would you look at that, found a very interesting beer list. Click on that. Notice something? Not lager led.  A balance of ales and lagers. The idea that post-WW2 beer in the US was all about the macro gak is one of the laziest tropes in American brewing history.⁶

Perhaps by way of contrast, Will Cleveland wrote a great story about a Montana beer co with one product – a light lager – both called Montucky Cold Snacks:

Zeitner said the banks laughed at them initially. “They were like, ‘We’re not going to give you a million dollars to compete against Budweiser or PBR. Are you crazy?” Of course, they are the only ones laughing now. That’s evidenced by some of the ridiculously kitschy and awesome Montucky Cold Snacks merchandise the brewery sells, including pool floats, dog toys, sunglasses, onesies, hats, and a wide variety of other stuff. The rejection caused Zeitner and Gregory to re-examine their plan. They realized that PBR doesn’t brew its own beer, helping them consider a similar, albeit much smaller, path. 

Finally, Twitter death march update. Boak and Bailey spoke of their troubles with Le Twit in their November newsletter⁷ which is really also worth a read. This is just a sliver of their thoughts:

We even had a Twitter-fuelled stalking incident – a real low point, and a wake-up call. We started unfollowing, muting and blocking people more freely. Having a word with ourselves, we also learned not to respond to every narky Tweet. Just because people wanted to argue with us didn’t mean we had to play. And we reduced our usage of the site overall. For the past few years, we’ve rolled our eyes at people complaining about the “toxic” nature of “beer Twitter”. Like many things, it’s as good as the effort you put into it. Share the kind of things you want to see, resist the urge to contribute to the cycle of gloom, and it can be A Good Thing. But now, Twitter might be dying.

There’s a lot of good reason to leave right there. But I ain’t goin. No sir-ee. The other day the damn blue bird app was flickering on and off like a bad lightbulb. But I’m still here. If you are concerned and want other sources, please check out the updates from Boak and Bailey hopefully now again mostly every Saturday and also from Stan more now on a Monday than almost ever! Check out the weekly and highly recommented Beer Ladies Podcast. The OCBG Podcast is on a very quiet schedule these days – but it’s coming back soon.  See also sometimes, on a Friday, posts at The Fizz as well (Ed.: we are told ‘tis gone to 404 bloggy podcast heaven… gone to the 404 bloggy podcast farm to play with other puppies.) And the long standing Beervana podcast (Ed.: which I have missed from this list for some unknown reason.) There is the Boys Are From Märzen podcast too and check out the travel vids at Ontario’s own A Quick Beer. There is a monthly sort of round up at The Glass. (Ed.: that seems to be dead now… nope, there was a post on July 25th… in 2022 even.) There is more from DaftAboutCraft‘s podcast, too. And sign up for Katie’s (Ed.: now very) irregular newsletterThe Gulp, too. And check out the Atlantic Canada Beer Blog‘s weekly roundup. Still gearing  up, the recently revived All About Beer has introduced a podcast, too. (Ed.: give it a few weeks to settle in and not be as agreeable… not sure this went very far…) Plus follow the venerable Full Pint podcast. And the Craft Beer Channel this week on Youtube. Plus Fermentation Radio with Emma Inch. The AfroBeerChick podcast as well! And also look at Brewsround and Cabin Fever. And Ben has his own podcast, Beer and Badword (Ed.: …notice of revival of which has been given… still not on the radio dial…)  And remember BeerEdge, too, and The Moon Under Water. There was also the Beer O’clock Show but that’s now gone after a ten year run… no, it is back and here is the link!

¹ I used to have a book of letters of Alfred North Whitehead and took great comfort in one written to Bertrand Russell in which he praised the B student over those in the top of the class for being a source of far more interesting ideas, just put a bit poorly.
² The shouty “WHY THIS IS IMPORTANT”foolishness plumping up a dull PR piece. It never is.
³ Or the copycat drive-by bill-paying article, research done from a distance, often based on Twitter polls or email “interviews” of a sort: “I reached out to…” No doubt financially necessary and not always horrible if done well.
Or, the worst, that “mystery” stuff which is virtually a declaration that a beer writer has given up. Smacks of clairvoyants and spiritualists… “woooa… you need to speak with a beer consultant…” [insert unexpected creaky noise] “…only then will you understand… woooaha000…
Because soccer and cooking! Being a perceived majoritarian but a first-gen freckled, identity is a thing. In work, friends and family I gravitate to these inclusive relationships and moments but it can also still get the awkward in return. I don’t care as much anymore. Alongside the homemade mince and tatties, the homemade curries of my Mississauga youth were legit even if they hopscotched (literally) from a great-granddad in 1890s India, through 1940s Britain and on to 1960s Canada when I showed up.
But it suits the generally accepted false craft origin story neatly.
OK, I follow B+B by blog, newsletter, Patreon, Twitter, Mastodon, Facebook, Instagram even emails and once by Zoom. That’s weird. Weird that it has never struck me as too much or, you know, stalking on my part.

The Dubious Thursday Beery News Notes For That Great Twitter Exodus

It’s been crazy out there. Election results are in. What the heck happened, other than we all have a new leader? And we say the end of that freakish warm streak that saw the garlic sitting around for an extra month before I got it in the ground. And Bills even lost to the Jets. My buddy Ben was there, went hard.. and then suffered. The beer was both a good choice and not maybe such a good choice. I understand this is in fact not live action footage from later that night. But it might  be similar. Me, I am too old to get up to stuff like this.

What’s up? Brewery altitude, that’s what!* That was in fact a new subject raised this week. A new one in Bavaria at 2,244m it will be the highest brewery in Europe.  Lion Stout was also brewed at height in Sri Lanka… until it wasn’t:

They don’t any more, having transferred down to sea level, but they and all the other high-altitude breweries in British India, all over 2,000 metres up, in the Himalayan foothills and the Nilgiri Hills in the south, had the same problem, and had to do 3-hour boils of the wort.

I’d be needing the meters above sea level listed on every can of beer I buy now. Aaaannnnd what else? Brewdog. Not again. Sells its beer in Qatar through the state. Set to make zillions broadcasting the World Cup in its pubs. And then pretends to take the high road. I know no one cares as we’ve all been here before but the moments need to be recorded because otherwise no one would believe it. Plus – the beer may well suck as well.

Speaking of questionable foreign marketplaces, this is an interesting chart describing the rise and fall of wine consumption in China from 1995 to 2021. Made me wonder what’s up with the beer market but you have to cut through this sort of PR inflected haze to determine what is really happening:

Beer sales are declining in China, but there is still room for expansion in the higher end of the market. And while Budweiser’s brand identity in the U.S. is irredeemably low end, in China the idea of luxury Bud is completely marketable.

The Foreign Agricultural Service of the US Department of Agriculture issued a report on beer in China back in January 2022 which indicated that the beer market was tracking that of wine, peaking a year later in 2018. Interesting that the USDA focuses on Covid-19 as the cause of the retraction and not general  economic contraction.

And Stan unpacked the far more localized retraction of Lost Abbey that I mentioned last week and, as per usual, had more intelligent and better informed observations:

Lost Abbey made its way into pretty much every trade-related conversation I had after their right-sizing story posted Tuesday. Whether the people I was speaking with were at small breweries content to remain small, at somewhat larger (but not really large) ones in the midst if figuring out how large they should be, or hop vendors who sure as shootin’ need to know how their customers are doing, the news was not shocking.

Speaking of tough economic times, Boak and Bailey wrote some interesting thoughts on the effects the recession has had on the value of each pint:

… if you’ve gone to the pub intending to drink, say, three pints, because that’s what the weekly budget will permit, you want each one to be at least decent. Perfect, really…  These are challenging times all round, with energy prices, staff shortages and poor quality blue roll. Beer businesses are popping out of existence, or getting mothballed, left, right and centre… Well, it’s never the right time to be a dick about these things, but it’s also perfectly reasonable to expect a £5+ luxury – that’s what a pint has become – to spark joy. Pubs which can continue to provide that will do better business in the coming months.

When you go, you want the joy. Like Ron who explained the experience of going to a beer event of some sort in Brazil which, as usual, reads like a mid-century American theatre piece, perhaps by Tennessee Williams:

I bump into Dick Cantwell outside the hotel. He tells me that the event has been delayed until 6 pm. 
“Someone just told me it’s seven.”
“The WhatsApp group says six.” Dick says.
My money is on nothing happening until 19:30. At the very earliest.
I get back to the other hotel at 18:30. Obviously, fuck all is happening. We are in Brazil, after all. I spot Gordon and we idle up to the bar. We get stuck into cocktails. I go for the safe Caipirinha option. While Gordon’s G&T comes out orange. With star fruit in it. 

Sounds magic. Until the rains came. And the political rioting. Speaking of being on the move, this was the week that the long march from #BeerTwitter to #BeerMastodon really began in earnest. I know that because I first saw the link to Ron’s story on the new world order and not on Twitter. This now is clearly the future. Still, in his weekly Sunday newsletter, Jeff looked back over his shoulder:**

Welcome to Twitter Death Watch, week two! For those of you who aren’t Twitter users, it was an exciting week, as Elon Musk fired much of the staff, threatened advertisers, and complained constantly and bitterly, making me wonder if the service may really go kablooey. 

Me, I look forward – but it is clear people are scrambling. While those shy bloggers hiding in subscription only newsletters are sending emails asking me if I want to join a private chat space they run (Ed.: Super Creeeeepy!!!) #BeerMastodon looks like it may well put the “pub” back in public discourse. Will cheap claims to expertise hold the same sway in a multi-channel universe?

Finally… BREAKING: In an other step in a series including beer words have no meaning and beer styles have no meaning we have brewing itself now has no meaning.*** Yes, expertise in beer is a wonderful thing. The less you know the more profound it is.

I think that is it for now. Good thing it is not all about me. Please check out the updates from Boak and Bailey hopefully now again mostly every Saturday and also from Stan more now on a Monday than almost ever! Check out the weekly Beer Ladies Podcast. The  OCBG Podcast is on a very quiet schedule these days – and also sometimes, on a Friday, posts at The Fizz as well (Ed.: we are told ‘tis gone to 404 bloggy podcast heaven… gone to the 404 bloggy podcast farm to play with other puppies.) And the long standing Beervana podcast (Ed.: which I have missed from this list for some unknown reason.) There is the Boys Are From Märzen podcast too and check out the travel vids at Ontario’s own A Quick Beer. There is a monthly sort of round up at The Glass. (Ed.: that seems to be dead now… nope, there was a post on July 25th… in 2022 even.) There is more from DaftAboutCraft‘s podcast, too. And sign up for Katie’s (Ed.: now very) irregular newsletterThe Gulp, too. And check out the Atlantic Canada Beer Blog‘s weekly roundup. Still gearing  up, the recently revived All About Beer has introduced a podcast, too. (Ed.: give it a few weeks to settle in and not be as agreeable… not sure this went very far…) Plus follow the venerable Full Pint podcast. And Fermentation Radio with Emma Inch. The AfroBeerChick podcast as well! And also look at Brewsround and Cabin Fever. And Ben has his own podcast, Beer and Badword (Ed.: …notice of revival of which has been given… still not on the radio dial…)  And remember BeerEdge, too, and The Moon Under Water. There was also the Beer O’clock Show but that’s now gone after a ten year run… no, it is back and here is the link!

*Dad joke.
**Entirely ignoring Biblical advice!!!
***And beer writing is not even about beer any more. A good piece of writing but a very odd place to publish it.

The Fascinating If Not Captivating Beery News Notes For November’s Start

November. Yippee, November! No one ever said that. Maybe if you were born on the first of November. Or in New Zealand. A New Zealander born on the first of November might be feeling they hit the jackpot, come to think of it. DSL might, too. Speaking of which, the Austrian Beer Party is saying yippee or whatever it is you say thereabouts. Still at 10% in the polls, down from 13% a month ago but no joke:

An upstart satirical party whose flagship policies include an unconditional beer allowance for every citizen and municipal lager fountains has come out of nowhere to win fourth place in national opinion polls. Founded in 2015 by a charismatic punk rock singer, the Beer Party was until very recently a fringe phenomenon in Austrian politics, scraping only 0.1 per cent of the vote at the last parliamentary election in 2019.

What else is up? I need to make this snappy. Things to do. Naps to have. Hmm…. Crisp Malting issued its 2022 Harvest Report which contains some startling observations about the climate:

It was the sixth driest summer on record and the driest since 1995, with just 62% of the usual summer rainfall. Additionally, we also saw more sun than usual at 115% of the 1991-2020 average. As a result of all this weather, it was the earliest barley harvest ever – some fields were cut on June 29th – and by July 19th, 70% of the UK winter barley harvest was cut. In the 50s and 60s, this would have been a month later, in August. Harvest in Scotland closed out earlier than usual also, another demonstration of the impact climate is having on our agricultural calendar.

Jings. Word is by 2042, the harvest will take place in 2041 a full twelve weeks before the time of planting. Canada is also having a bumper crop – and seeing higher prices for the wrong reason.

And I’ve come across something I am not sure I’ve seen as much as I thought I might – a review of the Good Beer Guide from Phil Mellows of British Beer Breaks who attended the book launch:

The strength of the Good Beer Guide, and what makes it different from, and in many ways better than, competing guides, is that the people picking the entries are so close to the ground. They know exactly what’s going on with the pub, because they drink in there week in, week out. This is also a weakness. A pub can fall out of favour with these individuals for all kinds of reasons that may be obscure to the occasional visitor. And there must be, it seems to me, a growing pressure on the decision-making resulting from the limit imposed on the number of entries allocated to each county or region.

Economics abounds. Muskoka buys Rally. Bench Brewing and Henderson sorta maybe merging. And Jeff has it right – Ommegang has lost its way.  Another sign of the times? Lost Abbey is cutting back:

The Lost Abbey’s co-founder and managing partner Tomme Arthur says the scale-down is an acknowledgment of vastly different market conditions than those of the brewery’s sales heyday seven years ago… Arthur says he hopes that reducing costs, particularly on rent and property taxes, will mean the brewery can maintain its staff of roughly 35 employees. “You can’t get small enough quick enough if you’re trying to protect the flank,” he says. 

I’m worried. Not about beer. There will always be beer. I am worried about my problem with Twitter. If we lose Twitter there’s bound to be a new problem for me that will replace my problem with Twitter. I’m having a look at Mastodon but  who’s over there? 100% of everyone voted to not “Quit the Twit” in my scientific study. And what will I do without it, without for example good folk going all pointy finger over a history of lambic which is an accusation of all other histories of lambic? I quite like “jeremiads full of invective“… although he’s misspelled jeroboam, hasn’t he. Sad.

Sadder? A thieving beer guzzling monkey in India!

Matty C has also asked a question of verbiage. Specifically the use of Helles:

I’m talking about ‘Helles’, and how it’s become the latest in a stream of buzzwords the lager machine has sacrificed to maintain its youth and vim. But why this particular terminology, and how did it take hold? How accurate are modern brewers’ renditions of this classic Bavarian style? And does what a beer is called really matter, if people are enjoying great lager as a result?

I like my words to mean what they mean and not mean what they don’t mean. Otherwise it can lead to things.  Ron found himself lead to things and in a bit of a pickle out and about on the Brazilian beer tourism scene again:

Last full day in Brazil. A bit weird. An election and the clocks changed. Plus everything in the centre of Florianopolis is shut…. It’s going crazy outside. People clearly think Lula has won. I hope that’s fireworks and not gunfire.

I trust it all worked out.  Speaking of travel and a bit more sedate sort bit of travel, B+B took us to Cologne, Germany this week and laid down a new law:

We decided on a rule: you need a minimum of three beers per pub on a Kölsch crawl. The first one will taste weird because it isn’t the same as the last you were drinking. You gulp that one down. Get the city scum out of your throat. The second, as you acclimatise, allows you to pick up distinct aromas and flavours. How is it different? Why is it different? The third allows you to appreciate what’s in front of you in its own right, and decide whether you want to turn this into a real session. Or walk on. Because you’re never far from another.

In brewing history this week, Gary highlighted the upcoming 2022 Chicago Brewseum Beer Summit and, elsewhere, @AfricanArchives wrote about a moment in history that I had not heard about – The Battle of Bamber Bridge which saw US soldiers fighting each other in England in 1943… and the local English publicans taking a side:

In 1943 Black American soldiers faced off with white American Military police during World War 2 on British soil. Black American soldiers had to fight their own white American soldiers, while in England, where they were fighting the world war. …when the American Military police found out that their own black soldiers were drinking at the same pubs as white people, they went in to arrest them. The people in the town got mad about that treatment and decided to then turn their pubs into “BLACKS ONLY DRINKING PUBS”

Finally, a less inspiring story came to light just when the blog post was going to the presses. Ben Johnson posted an excellent exposé on one Ontario brewery facing little public condemnation after allegations of sexual harassment:

It is unfortunate then that, when the City of Kitchener recently opened up their Requests for Proposals (RFP) process to find a “non-premier brewery partner” to serve beer at the Kitchener Memorial Auditorium Complex and Kitchener Golf Courses, they awarded the contract to Four Fathers Brewing Company in Cambridge. Unfortunate, of course, because in 2018 Four Fathers founder and University of Guelph Professor John Kissick actually was charged with two counts of assault and one count of assault with a weapon. Those charges were ultimately dropped in 2020 when Kissick entered into a peace bond with the party who brought forward the charges, but to craft beer drinkers and any feeling humans who watched video of the (alleged) assault (myself among them) the incident likely left a bad taste in their mouth.

There. Nothings like ending on a crummy note. For better news, please check out the updates from Boak and Bailey hopefully now again mostly every Saturday and also from Stan more now on a Monday than almost ever! Check out the weekly Beer Ladies Podcast. The  OCBG Podcast is on a very quiet schedule these days – and also sometimes, on a Friday, posts at The Fizz as well (Ed.: we are told ‘tis gone to 404 bloggy podcast heaven… gone to the 404 bloggy podcast farm to play with other puppies.) And the long standing Beervana podcast (Ed.: which I have missed from this list for some unknown reason.) There is the Boys Are From Märzen podcast too and check out the travel vids at Ontario’s own A Quick Beer. There is a monthly sort of round up at The Glass. (Ed.: that seems to be dead now… nope, there was a post on July 25th… in 2022 even.) There is more from DaftAboutCraft‘s podcast, too. And sign up for Katie’s (Ed.: now very) irregular newsletterThe Gulp, too. And check out the Atlantic Canada Beer Blog‘s weekly roundup. Still gearing  up, the recently revived All About Beer has introduced a podcast, too. (Ed.: give it a few weeks to settle in and not be as agreeable… not sure this went very far…) Plus follow the venerable Full Pint podcast. And Fermentation Radio with Emma Inch. The AfroBeerChick podcast as well! And also look at Brewsround and Cabin Fever. And Ben has his own podcast, Beer and Badword (Ed.: …notice of revival of which has been given… still not on the radio dial…)  And remember BeerEdge, too, and The Moon Under Water. There was also the Beer O’clock Show but that’s now gone after a ten year run… no, it is back and here is the link!

The Tired Old Thursday Beery News Notes For The End of October

Tired and old? Not the notes! Just me. The municipal election was Tuesday and it was a long day at the coal face, pick and shovel in hand. My sixth election for work. I love it as I get to practice a very specific sort of thing that only applies one evening every four years. Like being good at Leap Year law. Well, at least good enough. I also crossed over to the nearby US of A this week for the first time in years. Didn’t buy any beer given how crummy the exchange rate is and how high the duties – but I did get a couple of boxes of Cracklin’ Oat Bran, one of the cereals our Canadian federal government denies us. The US port of entry at the bridge 35 miles or so from here has been rebuilt and looks like something out of Star Wars… or Red Dwarf maybe. It’s actually really an interesting bit of architectural design. Imposing. As it should be.

What else is going on?  Well, Jordan was in town last week – but I was tied to the desk and couldn’t make the twenty-three minute walk to Spearhead (led by Josh, himself a municipal candidate!) to watch the brewery’s rather ultra set up produce an ESB for an excellent charitable cause. The brewery is very good about offering support like that also producing a light lager for CJAI, the community radio station whose monthly minutes I take as secretary of the board.* Jordan shared a bit about the experience:

…we’ve got Maris Otter, a little Dark Crystal, and some Black Patent Malt for colour correction. We’ve got Challenger, Fuggles, and East Kent Goldings which should give it some verisimilitude… The brewing system at Spearhead is so advanced that there are not a huge number of pictures you can effectively take of the brew day. I have raked out enough mash tubs on camera over the years and I always feel I look a little silly doing it. I also felt silly posing next to the console with my finger over the transfer button so I made Jacob do it. I feel like I look a little silly most of the time.

For Punch, Courtney Iseman wrote an interesting piece on simmering backlash against the vague concept of IPA. I was particularly pleased to see it reached back and made the case for continuity even if it suffers from the amnesia that beer writer interviewing beer writer summations like this also offer:

IPA’s true history remains buried in England, and is all but unknown in the United States. From a 19th-century influx of German immigrants to post-Prohibition consolidation of American beer under just a few behemoth brands pumping out yellow, fizzy water, the United States was a longtime lager land. Peter Ballantine & Sons Brewing Co. made one of the country’s few IPAs from the late 1800s until 1971, which inspired Fritz Maytag to make, four years later, Anchor Brewing Co.’s Liberty Ale, a dry-hopped pale ale that motivated more U.S. brewers to follow suit.

Craig described the history of American IPA dating back to the early 1800s in 2013 – and at least 1852 in Canada – but at least that part of the chain from Ballantine to today has been acknowledged.
Speaking of improving the track of actual brewing history, the comments last week illustrated the need to be diligent. That responsibility led me to one particularly unique factor to include in considerations, suggested in 1933 by the British scientific journal Nature, a stick to medically measure how pervasive ale was in the medieval era:

The medieval publican had a bad reputation for fraud and dishonesty, while the tavern was often regarded as a place of ill-repute. Alcoholism during the Middle Ages in England, as elsewhere, resembled in many ways the alcoholism of classical antiquity…  Legislation dealing with drunkenness or control of the liquor trade was practically unknown in the ancient world, whereas taxation of drink, reduction in the hours of sale and the number of taverns and other restrictions were introduced in the Middle Ages. The absence of syphilis in both ages was noteworthy in view of the fact that alcohol was such a frequent incentive to exposure to infection and was liable to aggravate the disease when once it was acquired.

One more historical question – did this cleric actually first bottle a beer?

Pellicle sent out an update to subscribing supporters like me and the message is clear – the plan to have a self-sufficient quality beer writing without compromising dependence is possible:

…at the time of writing this we are at 296, which is the highest number of Patreon supporters we’ve ever had. We hope you feel your support is worthwhile, and if its not, please consider my inbox always open. We understand that circumstances change, and things aren’t simple for many of us at the moment, including ourselves. I want to ensure that the way we run Pellicle is transparent, and you can see where your donation goes… While we maintain our ethos is to celebrate the joy inherent within our favourite drinks cultures, we also believe that these spaces can only be truly joyful if they can be enjoyed by everyone. We’ll continue publishing articles in this vein in the future for this reason. 

The recent piece by Emmie Harrison-West on the failure of UK craft to support a call to end sexism is proof enough of that intention. Compare assurances elsewhere that a “critique on the beer industry itself” is best avoided. I also liked this week’s article on the folly of wine tourism and suggest they apply equally to beer tourism which, as one wag recently put it, is a euphemism for getting drunk in a city where no one knows you. If you think of it, that second Pellicle article as well as the one in Punch above also align a bit with the image to the right, a brewery advert aimed at a French colonial soldier in Algeria spotted on Twitter this week. Click for deets.

Stan in his newsletter Hopping MadThe Hoptician… err… Hop Queries included an extended bit on that thing I know nothing about called first wort hopping:

In 1995, the German brewing magazine Brauwelt reported on the “rediscovery of first wort hopping,” documenting that many German breweries implemented first wort hopping 100 years before. It is a technique where hops are added to the first runnings of wort from the lauter tun. This exposes hop material to wort at lower temperatures and an elevated pH for an extended period of time. Advocates for FWH claim it produces a beer with improved bitterness qualities that can be described as “smooth” and “harmonious.”

Sounds a bit like myself, smooth and harmonious.

Glynn Davis wrote about how interviewing one restauranteur who went alcohol free led to considerations of the overall value proposition:

Rather like Hussain has found at the Blue Naan, the adoption of non-alcoholic and low-alcoholic drinks is not going to help attract customers (quite the opposite could be the case, in fact), nor are they going to be some big money spinner for hospitality businesses. But that’s not to say they don’t have a place in helping companies achieve other aims that might be more focused on health, wellness and faith, rather than just being about hard cash.

One last thing? Was craft beer culture ever cool other than to the people with the buzz at the expensive beer bar? Or was the relatively dead air on social media after the results were released more the case?

Hmm… something to think about. As you do, please check out the updates from Boak and Bailey hopefully now again mostly every Saturday and also from Stan more now on a Monday than almost ever! Check out the weekly Beer Ladies Podcast. The  OCBG Podcast is on a quieter schedule these days – and also sometimes, on a Friday, posts at The Fizz as well (Ed.: we are told ‘tis gone to 404 bloggy podcast heaven… gone to the 404 bloggy podcast farm to play with other puppies.) And the long standing Beervana podcast (Ed.: which I have missed from this list for some unknown reason.) Check out the travel vids at Ontario’s own A Quick Beer. There is a monthly sort of round up at The Glass. (Ed.: that seems to be dead now… nope, there was a post on July 25th… in 2022 even.) There is more from DaftAboutCraft‘s podcast, too. And sign up for Katie’s (Ed.: now very) irregular newsletterThe Gulp, too. And check out the Atlantic Canada Beer Blog‘s weekly roundup. Still gearing  up, the recently revived All About Beer has introduced a podcast, too. (Ed.: give it a few weeks to settle in and not be as agreeable… not sure this went very far…) Plus follow the venerable Full Pint podcast. And Fermentation Radio with Emma Inch. The AfroBeerChick podcast as well! And also look at Brewsround and Cabin Fever. And Ben has his own podcast, Beer and Badword (Ed.: …notice of revival of which has been given… still not on the radio dial…)  And remember BeerEdge, too, and The Moon Under Water. There was also the Beer O’clock Show but that’s now gone after a ten year run… no, it is back and here is the link!

*I like to play both sides in radio land.